97 Camry 4cyl leaky valve cover, again

[exploreco97]

Just wondering if anyone can give me any suggestions.

Car has 191,000 on it. Replaced the valve cover gasket and spark plug gaskets because the cover was leaking. Worked fine for about 6 weeks and started leaking again. Decided to try it again so I bought an OEM gasket from Toyota this time thinking that might make a difference. Followed directions per Haines manual (again). Went apporoximately 4 weeks and started leaking agian. Leaks from the rear side of the engine both times.

Not sure what else to do? Any ideas I could try? Third time a charm

Thanks

[Brian R.]

Did you try retorquing (17 ft-lbs) the 4 nuts after it had run a few days? They may loosen up with a couple heating/cooling cycles. Did you initially torque them in 5 ft-lb increments from the inside two out to the outer two?

Cleaning the gasket surface of the rear is more difficult than the front. Maybe you didn't get a piece of something off the rear surface.

Although it is more trouble, if you clean the surfaces with solvent really well, the black FIPG material in a small bead around the entire surface of the head cover would be pretty much a sure thing as long as you don't let it film over before you put the head cover in place (less than 5 min exposure).

In view of the possible misprint discussed below in posts 7 and 8, make sure you didn't crack the head cover by overtorqueing.

[G.A.S.]

make sure the holes where the bolts go through the valve cover are not bent over causing the bolt/nut to bottom out and loose the torque.
They have a tendancy to concave.
I use a peening hammer to bend them straight . if not a little over.

[Brian R.]

G.A.S - The head cover is not held in place by bolts through the sealing flange. The head cover is held in place by four large nuts threading onto the outside of the sparkplug tubes that cannot have that problem.

[RIP]

Your manual (pg 57 in engine mechanical) in the Factory Service Manual thread at the top of the forum calls for applying a specific sealant at specific points on the head before installing the cover. As Brian R pointed out, sealant and torqueing are key. Should finish with 33 ft/lbs [correction, tube nut torque is 17 ft-lbs, see posts 7 and 8 below (Brian R.)].

[Mike Gerber]

In addition to what the others have advised you to do, also check the PCV valve. It could be stuck and causing high pressure within the cam (valve) cover. Remove the PCV valve and make sure the ball inside of it is moving freely. If it is not, clean it with brake cleaner until the ball is moving freely or purchase another one from your dealer.

Mike

[Brian R.]

Originally Posted by RIP

Your manual (pg 57 in engine mechanical) in the Factory Service Manual thread at the top of the forum calls for applying a specific sealant at specific points on the head before installing the cover. As Brian R pointed out, sealant and torqueing are key. Should finish with 33 ft/lbs.

RIP, I believe the torque you quoted is an error in the manual. The '94 and '96 Camry and '90 Celica FSMs all show the torque for the tube nuts as 17 ft-lbs, which I think is correct. This has come up as an issue previously. I recall that someone had a cracked head cover trying to torque to 33 ft-lbs. They were successful using 17 ft-lbs.

[Brian R.]

Ah, senility has not yet struck:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=360295

I placed this information in the FAQ thread.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...6&postcount=74

[RIP]

Sheesh! Makes you wonder what to trust anymore. I would expect crap like that from Haynes but not from a factory manual. 17 ft lbs it is. Glad I highlighted the error. Also glad your memory is still hangin in there.

While we're on the subject, have you noticed any other errors in the factory manuals worth noting? Anyone?

[Brian R.]

Well the '94 Camry manual tells you to test the ABS system error code at 119 mph (p. BR-83) and test the front speed sensor output at 112.4 mph (p. BR-84). The speeds for testing the rear sensors are OK.

I wonder if Hayne's or Chilton's figured out those were wrong or did they copy them without thinking....

From my library:
'92-'95 Haynes Camry manual shows torque for tube nuts as 29 ft-lbs
'97-'01 Haynes Camry manual shows torque for tube nuts as 33 ft-lbs
AutoZone has the torque at 17 ft-lbs for '92-'96 5S-FE (no information available for the '97 5S-FE)
http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_u...rInfoPages.htm

[Edit]I just found out the origin of the Haynes' 29 ft-lb torque value. It is the torque used to tighten the spark plug tubes into the cylinder head.

[Mike Gerber]

I had a strange issue with my Toyota factory service manual I purchased for my 98 Camry when the car was new. I had to replace the rear O2 sensor on the 4 cylinder 5SFE engine. The manual stated the wiring connector was under the passenger seat. I went crazy trying to find it. I took the entire seat out and couldn't find it. Then I went to the local Toyota dealership and talked to one of the techs. He said it's not under the passenger seat, it's under the driver's seat, and you don't have to remove the seat. Just push the seat all the way forward and reach in by the carpet cutout for the back seat floor heater vents. There it was. I was happy to have the problem solved but frustrated at Toyota. This is what I spent $208 for on a set of factory manuals?

Mike

[Brian R.]

In the Japanese cars with right-hand drive, the sensor is under the passenger seat. In Left-hand drive cars, it is the opposite. Sort of an understandable proofreading error....I bet they create the manuals for the JDM first and then the rest of the world manuals.

I notice the drawing of the seat on page SF-62 is actually our driver's seat with the seat adjustments on the left side.

I think in the sensor test, they missed a decimal point.

[exploreco97]

Thanks for all the post's. I will try and retourquing and see what happens. If not I will take it off and try it one more time. I had not retourqed.

Thanks

[Brian R.]

What torque did you use?

[exploreco97]

Originally Posted by Brian R.

What torque did you use?

I used the 17ft you suggested. I still have a small leak so I may tighten them a bit more in a few days. If that doesn't work I will re-seal when the weather gets warmer.