Replacing Head Gasket on 99 Rodeo

[Bluesax]

HeyIsuzuites,
Can't seem to find the answer to my question searching so I'll ask for help direct. I need to change the head gasket on a 99 rodeo. In the Haynes manual, section 2-10, it gives steps for removing the head. If I understand the note in the instructions, I don't have to remove the manifolds, timing belt, camshafts, lifters, valve springs. But it then says to disregard any steps that "pertain to stripping the head." My question is, how many of the steps do I disregard? I'm pretty much stuck after step 3 (removing the alternator) and there's 17 more steps! Anyone who has done this, I Need Help!
Many thanks.

[srpope80]

From the '00 Rodeo workshop manual:

Cylinder Head Assembly

Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Disconnect connector of intake air temperature
sensor from intake air duct.
3. Remove PCV hose from air intake duct.
4. Remove nut from air intake duct bracket and loosen
hose clamp on throttle body. Remove air intake duct
assembly with air cleaner cover.
5. Remove intake air duct bracket from cylinder head.
6. Drain engine coolant.
7. Move drive belt tensioner to loose side using wrench
then remove drive belt.

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8. Remove radiator upper hose from engine side.
9. Remove four nuts of exhaust front pipe.
10. Remove three bolts from generator bracket then
remove the generator with brackets.

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11. Disconnect crankshaft angle sensor connector.
12. Disconnect knock sensor connector.
13. Remove heater hose from adapter side.
14. Remove heater hose from water pipe side.
15. Remove water hose between water pipe and throttle
body.
16. Remove fuel pipe joint eye bolts from fuel rail
assembly and remove fuel pipe bracket with electric
ground cable.

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17. Disconnect connector for evaporation valve.
18. Remove canister hose.
19. Remove fixing nut of intake manifold stay from
cylinder block side.

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20. Remove two bolts from intake manifold for water pipe
support and remove cylinder head assembly.
21. Remove engine harness cover and disconnect three
connectors from chassis harness on left rear side
engine compartment.
22. Disconnect connector for power steering pump
pressure switch.
23. Remove four bolts and remove crankshaft pulley.

ENGINE MECHANICAL (X22SE 2.2L) 6A–23

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24. Remove two bolts and nut then remove timing belt
front cover.
25. Remove ventilation hose from cylinder block side and
from cylinder head side.
26. Remove two bolts, ignition cable cover and remove
ignition cables from spark plug.
27. Disconnect camshaft angle sensor connector.
28. Remove ten bolts and remove cylinder head cover.
29. Remove fixing bolt of timing belt tensioner then
remove timing belt tensioner.

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30. Remove timing belt.

CAUTION:

Do not bend or twist belt, otherwise its core could
be damaged. The belt should not be bent at a
radius less than 30 mm.

Timing belt drive gear counterhold with J–42620.

Do not allow oil or other chemical substances to
come in contact with the belt. They will shorten
the life.

Do not attempt to pry or stretch the belt with a
screw driver or any other tool during installation.

Store timing belt in cool and dark place. Never
expose the belt direct sunlight or heat.

31. Remove two idle pulleys, the left side with idle pulley
bracket.
32. Remove two bolts and stud bolt and remove timing
belt rear cover.
33. Remove camshaft angle sensor
34. Disconnect engine oil pressure switch connector.

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35. Remove camshaft assembly exhaust side.
36. Use J–42623 to remove ten cylinder head fixing bolts

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6A–24 ENGINE MECHANICAL (X22SE 2.2L)

Installation

1. Put cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block.

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2. Install the cylinder head assembly, tighten cylinder
head bolts by four steps tightening method in the
following sequence to the specified torque.(use
J–42623)

Torque: 25 N·m (18 lb ft) + 90

+ 90
+ 90

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3. Install camshaft assembly exhaust side and tighten
camshaft bracket bolts in the sequence to the
specified torque.

Torque: 8 N·m (5.9 lb ft)

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4. Connect engine oil pressure switch connector.
5. Install camshaft angle sensor.
6. Install the timing belt rear cover and tighten three
bolts to the specified torque.

Torque
M6 bolt: 6 N·m (4.4 lb ft)
M8 bolt: 8 N·m (5.8 lb ft)

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7. Install left side idle pulley with idle pulley bracket,
tighten to the specified torque and install right side
idle pulley and tighten to the specified torque.

Torque: 25 N·m (18 lb ft)

ENGINE MECHANICAL (X22SE 2.2L) 6A–25

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8. Install timing belt tensioner then tighten it temporarily
until make alignment timing belt.
9. Install the cylinder head cover and tighten fixing bolt
temporally.
10. Install the timing belt and perform timing belt setting
procedure as follows.
1. Bring the engine top dead center No.1 cylinder
compression stroke by rotating the engine in the
direction of normal operation.
The engine is in this position when the notches on
the camshaft pulleys align with the marks on the
cylinder head cover(1), Check the crankshaft
pulley timing mark is aligned (2) also check for
water pump positioning ensure tabs are aligned
(3).

Rotate the engine two full turns in the direction
of normal operation until the engine is again at
top dead centre, No.1 cylinder firing being
careful that all movement is in a clockwise
direction.

If the engine is turned too far, do not turn
backwards, but continue to turn in the same
direction until the marks are again in line.

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2. Place J–43037 to between intake and exhaust of
camshaft drive gear to prevent camshaft drive
gear movement during timing belt setting.

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6A–26 ENGINE MECHANICAL (X22SE 2.2L)

3. Set the timing belt shown in the illustration,
ensure that tension side of the timing belt is taut
and move the timing belt tension adjustment lever
clockwise, until the pointer of the tensioner is
flowing.

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For used timing belt(over 60 minutes from new):
the pointer will be approx. 4 mm(0.16 in) to the left
of the center of the “V” notch when viewed from
the front of the engine.

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For new timing belt: The pointer must be at the
center of “V” notch when viewed from the front of
the engine.

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4. Tighten fixing bolt of timing belt tensioner to the
specified torque.

Torque: 25 N·m (18 lb ft)

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11.Tighten cylinder head cover to the specified torque.

Torque: 8 N·m (5.9 lb ft)

12. Connect camshaft angle sensor connector.
13. Install the ignition cable to spark plug.
14. Install ignition cable cover and tighten two bolts.

Torque: 3 N·m (2 lb ft)

15. Install ventilation hoses to cylinder block side and
cylinder head side.
16. Install timing belt front cover and tighten two bolts to
the specified torque.

Torque: 6 N·m (4.4 lb ft)

ENGINE MECHANICAL (X22SE 2.2L) 6A–27

17. Install crankshaft pulley and tighten four bolts.

Torque: 20 N·m (14 lb ft)

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18. Connect connector for power steering pump pressure
switch.
19. Connect engine harness connector to chassis
harness of the left rear of engine compartment and
install engine harness cover.
20. Install two bolts to intake manifold for water pipe
support.
21. Install fixing nut of intake manifold stay to cylinder
block.

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22. Install canister hose.
23. Connect connector for evaporation valve.
24. Install fuel pipe joint eye bolts to fuel rail assembly and
install fuel pipe bracket with electric ground cable.

Torque: 25 N·m (18 lb ft)

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25. Install water hose between water pipe and throttle
body.
26. Install heater hose to water pipe side.
27. Install heater hose to adapter side.
28. Connect knock sensor connector.
29. Connect crankshaft angle sensor connector.
30. Install generator with bracket and tighten three bolts.

Torque
35 N·m (25 lb ft) for Long bolt
20 N·m (14 lb ft) for Short bolt

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6A–28 ENGINE MECHANICAL (X22SE 2.2L)

31. Install exhaust front pipe to exhaust manifold and
tighten four nuts to the specified torque.

Torque: 25 N·m (18 lb ft)

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32. Install radiator upper hose to engine.
33. Move drive belt tensioner to loose side using wrench
then install the drive belt to normal position.

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34. Install intake air duct bracket to cylinder head.
35. Install air intake duct assembly with air cleaner cover
to throttle body and tighten nut to the air intake duct
bracket then tighten hose clamp.

Torque
7 N·m (5.1 lb ft) for nut
3 N·m (2.2 lb ft) for hose clamp bolt

36. Install PCV hose to air intake duct.
37. Connect connector of intake air temperature sensor
on intake air duct.
38. Connect battery ground cable.
39. Fill engine coolant to full level in the engine coolant

reservoir tank.

[Bluesax]

beautiful. This is the instruction I was looking for. Thanks. I have run into one problem already. I've removed the brackets from the alternator but the bottom bolt doesn't want to come out. I can turn it with a lot of effort but it just won't back out and is very hard to turn. Any thoughts? Thanks again.

[Ramblin Fever]

It would help, maybe, to know which engine.

I don't think there have been too many head gasket replacements on the 3.2L V6 engine, so I can't help you there, but you might get more responses if you list your engine.

[FL 3.2L]

Originally Posted by Bluesax

beautiful. This is the instruction I was looking for. Thanks. I have run into one problem already. I've removed the brackets from the alternator but the bottom bolt doesn't want to come out. I can turn it with a lot of effort but it just won't back out and is very hard to turn. Any thoughts? Thanks again.

PB Blaster, and don't break it!

[Bluesax]

Will try it. What's making it hang up like that? Never seen a bolt that would back out after 'breaking' it loose. Thanks for the tip. Oh, and it's a 2.2L 4-cylinder engine.

[coldday]

bottom bolt on the alt has a nut on the backside you need to hold w/ a wrench...

[Bluesax]

There's no nut that I can see or feel. I've tried PB Blaster and heated the bolt. Still just turns and doesn't want to back out. Next question. Can I replace the gasket without taking off the alternator? Thanks

[Bluesax]

Okiay, found the nut and removed the alternator. Thanks, Coldday. Next up, fuel rail and injectors. I don't have to remove the timing belt, do I?

[coldday]

congrats on the nut finding afraid that is the tip of the iceburg...

you're in for a heck of job, yeah, you're going to have to take the timing belt off, and you're even going to have to remove the driver side camshaft in order to get to the head bolts on that side fabulous design isn't it! Just take it easy, go slow, and mark everything as you take it off so you know where to put it all back. exhaust manifold going to have to come off. of course too, fuel lines then rail (watch for pressured gasoline to spray out! be cautious) intake manifold, etc. etc. etc.....

I replaced my head w/ a rebuilt so I had a little more to take off... but you've got enough to do for sure. good luck man. Been almost a year, so I'm a little rusty, but I did it 2x (long story)...

[Bluesax]

Coldday,
Yeah, you ain't kidding. My brother and I spent three hours yesterday taking it apart down to the fuel rail. Like you say, numbering everything and laying it out to put back in order. Couple of things though. Haynes book says that if you're just replacing the gasket, you can lift off the head and manifolds together. You say no? And how do you unplug those electrical connectors to the injectors? The ones that have the light blue tab? They don't seem to budge and I don't want to jerk anything. Any ideas? Thanks again.
James

[coldday]

by all means, please follow the manual vs. me... that's great if you don't have to remove the manifolds, save you some $ on gaskets

There are clips on the injector connections, need to lift up the clips as you pull straight out. don't remember if there are clips on both sides, but might be one on top and bottom.

[Bluesax]

Took off the valve cover and found all four plugs swimming in oil. never seen anything like it. Is this an indication of something else or will cleaning it all up and finishing the gasket job be okay? Also, is it a good idea to replace the injectors? How do I check the condition of them? Sorry about all the questions. Thanks

[coldday]

I'd not mess w/ the injectors unless you were having a problem with them to begin with, they are expensive $$$$$$$$$$$. When you take them out w/ the fuel rail, be really careful with the ends, I put some aluminum foil over all four to keep any dirt out.

If the plugs had oil on top of them, it might be that your valve cover gasket was leaking into the plug channel area? Just a guess. Not sure how else oil could end up there, nothing else comes to mind. You'll need a new valve cover gasket anyway, so something to keep an eye on. I'm not a mechanic ,or anything close so, maybe someone will have a different thought on that.

[cmladue]

yea if your plugs are swimming in oil u will need a new valve cover gasket set. if i was you i would buy a whole head gasket set that will come with all the gaskets u need. the injectors if the are the one im thinking of u just push in the sides and lift. then be very carefull pulling them out u dont wanna ruin the gaskets. and u might as well get a new timing belt and a new water pump too