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#1
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Replacing rack and pinion
One of my friends at work has a 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix (3.8L, Auto Trans). She has the typical "hard right turns" problem. It turns to the left just fine, but turn to the right, and it feels like there is no power steering. And it's getting worse.
Ive been working on cars for over 3 years now and I have done rack and pinions before, but I was just wondering if anyone knew about how hard or easy it is to change? My main question is whether the subframe has to be dropped or removed? Just trying to get a good idea of what I'm getting myself into LOL. I have access to a lift and tools. Anybody have any insight, it will be much appreciated. |
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#2
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Re: Replacing rack and pinion
The job is a piece of cake.
j/k...![]() But seriously just to give you a general idea per the FSM you are supposed to raise the car and then use an engine hoist/support fixture to hold the engine/transaxle order to remove the rack and pinion. Basically the subframe must be dropped down. Required due to clearance problems because you have to remove the rear subframe bolts, loosen front subframe bolts and drop the rear part of the subframe in order to access and get the old rack and pinion out. Plus a jack is required to support the rear portion of the subframe. Other components that require removal are the front wheels, engine mount, transmission mount, the exhaust downpipe, any exhaust heat shields, and the outer tie rods at the steering knuckles, etc. The steering coupler must be separated from the rack and pinion before dropping the rear subframe. Pressure and return lines are removed as one of the last steps along with the bolts that secure the rack and pinion to the subframe. The bottom line is it is a PITA.
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'08 Pontiac Grand Prix GXP (Dark Slate Metallic) - LS4 5.3L V8 '02 Oldsmobile Alero GL2 - LA1 3400 V6 '99 Buick Regal LS - L36 Series II 3800 V6 '03 Honda CR250R MX - 2 Stroke 250cc '97 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP - L67 Series II 3800 V6 Supercharged (Sold) Timeslip 08/12/06 AF Community Guidelines |
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#3
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Re: Replacing rack and pinion
Nothing but work, but it is not undoable. I did a rack replacement last week end on a 97GP. I didn't even have a lift. just 2 bottle jacks, 2 jack stand s, and a floor jack. You do have to lower the rear of the subframe but that is the trickest part. everything is pretty much turn wrench, loose skin on knuckle, repeat.
Forget about touching the exhaust, heat shields, transmision or the other stuff. It is just not nessisary. Get a book, My bud loaned me the factory service manual ( he has the same car) Pictures help. |
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#4
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Re: Replacing rack and pinion
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![]() Still waiting for the "good old days" I'll get to bore my future grandchildren with! |
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#5
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Re: Replacing rack and pinion
Whoops, I forgot about this post. Thanks for the help everyone, it will definitely help me out, I just couldn't tell from looking at it. Sounds pretty similar to the last rack I remember doing (Toyota Camry). Now I just gotta find the time to do it!
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#6
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Re: Replacing rack and pinion
Well, I'm back. It seems now I am having trouble figuring out which rack and pinion this car needs. Apparently there are 2 different kinds for this year, a non-variable assist and variable assist. I cannot seem to figure out which one I need for this car.
The non-variable assist is called NV7 and the variable assist is called N40. I thought these were RPO codes, but they are not on the SPI sticker on the trunk lid. I even made sure it was the right SPI sticker by checking it with the VIN number on the car. Someone at an auto parts store told me it was on the rack and pinion itself, but I can't find anything like that on the rack itself. I've looked all over it, even jacked it up and looked under it. Does anyone know how I can figure out which one I need, I am stumped? Cant say I've ever had this problem with getting a part before. |
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#7
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Re: Replacing rack and pinion
Try doing this first before replacing it,go to your nearest parts store and get a bottle of Lucas,the one for power steering.Lucas does work in the GM rack and opinions.The GM racks have a problem called "morning sickness" and Lucas does solve this.
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#8
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Re: Replacing rack and pinion
Well this is a very loose rule of thumb, there are may exceptions. SE's are usally standard power assist. GT's and GTP's are usally magnasteer.
I have a 97 SE and the steering type was not listed on the RPO codes on the sticker. It has standard power assist. Now the hardpart. Are there wires running into the rack in the area where the steering coupler attaches? If yes magnasteer. If no standard power assist. Ebay has some pictures of racks if you seach there you might get a view of what i mean. Does the pressure line connect directly to the power steering pump or does it have a valve body between the pump and the line. Direct is standard. Valve body is magnasteer. Then again maybe the local dealership will run your VIN and give you the definative answer. I belive I read the hard right steer problem was a defective pinion bearing in the rack and was a dealer fix (not a total recall) for many GM racks. Might try to shame them into a fix. Might want to search around for that. Hope this helps. |
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#9
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Re: Replacing rack and pinion
The major difference between the Magnasteer (Variable Assist) units and the regular rack and pinion units will be you can see the EVO actuator which will be located at the part of the rack where the steering coupler attaches. See pic below. There will be electrical wiring and a connector since the Magnasteer system is controlled by the EBTCM module.
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__________________
'08 Pontiac Grand Prix GXP (Dark Slate Metallic) - LS4 5.3L V8 '02 Oldsmobile Alero GL2 - LA1 3400 V6 '99 Buick Regal LS - L36 Series II 3800 V6 '03 Honda CR250R MX - 2 Stroke 250cc '97 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP - L67 Series II 3800 V6 Supercharged (Sold) Timeslip 08/12/06 AF Community Guidelines |
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#10
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Re: Replacing rack and pinion
Quote:
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#11
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Re: Replacing rack and pinion
Well, just to follow up, I finally fixed the car today. It wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it would be. Took about 3 1/2 hours from start to finish. Drives and turns like new now!
I didn't remove the exhaust, heat shields, engine and tranny mounts or anything. Just put some tranny jacks on the back of the subframe and lowered it down a couple of inches when it was ready to come out. Hardest part was the steering coupler, but that seems to always be the case with rack and pinions. Thanks for all the help everyone, I appreciate it. |
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