Nissan Auto-Manual Conversion

[KiwiBacon]

Finally sick of the auto in my shopping trolley and have decided to swap the gearbox to manual.
I've found a donor car which will provide most of everything I need, but I've got questions on the electrical side and would like to find someone who's done a similar conversion.

Biggest questions are the vehicle speed sensor (I think the donor car has smaller wheels) and what to do with the harness (approx 8 wires) on the auto?

[2.2 Straight six]

wheel size is not so relevant. you need to take into account the rolling radius. for example, at work i used to take 15 inch wheels and change the tyres from 195/65R15s to 205/60R15s.

running wider tyres you need a lower profile (aspect ratio) to account for it. so you can change wheel sizes, or widths and profiles but as long as the rolling radius remains the same the speedo and gearing won't be affected.

as for the wiring harness, no idea. sorry.

[KiwiBacon]

Originally Posted by 2.2 Straight six

wheel size is not so relevant. you need to take into account the rolling radius. for example, at work i used to take 15 inch wheels and change the tyres from 195/65R15s to 205/60R15s.

running wider tyres you need a lower profile (aspect ratio) to account for it. so you can change wheel sizes, or widths and profiles but as long as the rolling radius remains the same the speedo and gearing won't be affected.

as for the wiring harness, no idea. sorry.

I was actually referring to total wheel size, not just rim diameter.
My car has 24.5" diameter wheels, the potential donor car has 23.5" diameter wheels.
Only 5% but if I could swap VSS I probably would.

[2.2 Straight six]

well, most cars are given a tolerance of 10% when it comes to actual speed vs shown speed. that's a legal thing, not a manufacturing one.

i don't know whether the two cars would have different speed sensors. you'd have to have a look as to where the sensor is located. most run off the diff/final drive.

[slideways...]

and if you want a better fit and finish to the project, get a manual ECU and just leave the tranny plug tied up somewhere. if you keep the auto ECU, you may get a code, but it shouldnt affect driveability afaik.

[KiwiBacon]

Originally Posted by slideways...

and if you want a better fit and finish to the project, get a manual ECU and just leave the tranny plug tied up somewhere. if you keep the auto ECU, you may get a code, but it shouldnt affect driveability afaik.

The only issues from the autobox wiring appear to be the starter lockout (park/neutral), the reverse lights and telling the ECU that it's in drive.

It appears the starter lockout can be connected fulltime (I think manual ones sometimes have a switch on the clutch pedal), reverse lights should be pretty easy and wire it so it always thinks it's in D.

If I do get the box to fit (not looking good) then I'll blank off all the shift position lights on the dash.

[Moppie]

Originally Posted by KiwiBacon

Finally sick of the auto in my shopping trolley and have decided to swap the gearbox to manual.
I've found a donor car which will provide most of everything I need, but I've got questions on the electrical side and would like to find someone who's done a similar conversion.

Biggest questions are the vehicle speed sensor (I think the donor car has smaller wheels) and what to do with the harness (approx 8 wires) on the auto?

Why not just sell it and buy a Manual?
Autos a worth more in the NZ market, and used Nissan's are at an all time high here in numbers because no one else in the world is stupid enough to buy them, making them very cheap.


Chances are the VSS is the same in both cars, but its the ECU that knows the different rolling diameter.
But, you will only know after you hook it up and take it for a test drive, either with a chase car, or past a mile marker.

[KiwiBacon]

Originally Posted by Moppie

Why not just sell it and buy a Manual?
Autos a worth more in the NZ market, and used Nissan's are at an all time high here in numbers because no one else in the world is stupid enough to buy them, making them very cheap.

I've looked.
Most of the manual ones I found were in a condition that I didn't want to buy, the ones in as good condition as my auto would cost me $2-4k to tradeup.

Ridiculous I know. The dealer prices for these haven't dropped since I bought mine almost two years ago. Now mine is worth maybe $5k, they're still asking $9k and up.
Here's one. Dealer says it's 4wd, but I'm sceptical.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...tm?key=1109241

Here's one in the worst colour they made. Dealer says 6sp.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...tm?key=1109241

Here's one like mine but manual.
$11k from the money mart burglars.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...tm?key=1109241

[Moppie]

I don't trust, nor pay much attention to advertised prices from the dealers.
You can always negotiate prices well below the advertised, as they often just make it up, knowing there are a growing number of suckers out there who will pay the sticker price with out question.

[KiwiBacon]

Originally Posted by Moppie

I don't trust, nor pay much attention to advertised prices from the dealers.
You can always negotiate prices well below the advertised, as they often just make it up, knowing there are a growing number of suckers out there who will pay the sticker price with out question.

Yeah I know, they took $2k off the one I have now before I bought it.
But private sellers of these cars in manual are pretty much non-existant. There was one auto on tardme with the comment "selling to buy a manual".

It's no big deal if I can't convert it to auto, we'll just drive it for a few more years then flick it for something more interesting. But if it can be converted easily (read without LVV cert) then the next few years driving it will be a lot more fun.

[Moppie]

If your going to goto the trouble of converting it, then why not go all out, and drop in a SR20 with the Variable cams in it?
Make it even more enjoyable

[KiwiBacon]

Originally Posted by Moppie

If your going to goto the trouble of converting it, then why not go all out, and drop in a SR20 with the Variable cams in it?
Make it even more enjoyable

This is my cheap to run boring car. While an SR20VE it'd be too much fun and that would make it not cheap to run any more.

Main reason I didn't get the SR20 version was the CVT box, but it looks like an easier swap to manual than what I've got now.

[Moppie]

Exactly, there would be more manual SR20 boxes around, even NZ new ones from SSS sentras etc would all bolt right up.
Most importers are reluctant to split engine/box combos, but I would imagine the CVT box from an SR20VE would be quite high demand, along with the engine.

You could always just drop in a less exciting SR20 and box from a SSS Sentra/ GT P10/P11 Primerror.

[KiwiBacon]

Originally Posted by Moppie

Exactly, there would be more manual SR20 boxes around, even NZ new ones from SSS sentras etc would all bolt right up.
Most importers are reluctant to split engine/box combos, but I would imagine the CVT box from an SR20VE would be quite high demand, along with the engine.

You could always just drop in a less exciting SR20 and box from a SSS Sentra/ GT P10/P11 Primerror.

One of the main aims of a manual swap is also economy. Swapping to an SR20 with 5speed probably wouldn't gain me anything in that regard.
Still tempting though. Especially since the high final-drive ratio gearbox's I'd be after are shunned by the ricer crowd

[KiwiBacon]

I think if I was going to do an engine and box swap in this car, the winner would be the YD22 diesel with 5 speed from the commercial van version.
It'd be shortly followed by a turbo (I have a T2 from a CD20 in my collection).

Bingo, TDI wagon for under $10k. But I'd have some research to do first, the commercial van has a completely different floorpan and suspension so I suspect the motor mounts and crossmember would be different too.

Here's the diesel version:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-139936236.htm


The interior in them really sucks, they have beam rear suspension, a flat squab rear seat, a completely flat rear floor, no climate control, no abs and no passenger airbag.
But the engine/box would make a good starting point.

It'd cost me $25k for a Ford Focus TDI wagon and they're also poverty pack interior without the room of the wagon I've got.