Another 99 Suburban won't start.

[hgerrick]

Have 55 PSI fuel pressure at fuel rail.Pressure goes up when the return line is pinched. Spark at #1 cyclinder. But will not run. The last couple times I drove the truck it ran fine when first started then started missing and popping ect... I ordered a fuel pressure guage to check the pump and regulator and now no start. It almost acted like the dist was 180 degrees out. I removed the cap and cleaned the terminals, sprayed WD-40 to dissipate any moisture. Now just spins over no attempt to run, still have spark at #1. Return line pinched, over 80 PSI in fuel rail.... What am I missing..... no check engine light. A week ago I took this truck on a 1200 mile trip it ran fine until I was within 50 miles of home then missed slightly, now won't run. HEEELLLPPPP!!!!!

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by hgerrick

Have 55 PSI fuel pressure at fuel rail.Pressure goes up when the return line is pinched. Spark at #1 cyclinder. But will not run. The last couple times I drove the truck it ran fine when first started then started missing and popping ect... I ordered a fuel pressure guage to check the pump and regulator and now no start. It almost acted like the dist was 180 degrees out. I removed the cap and cleaned the terminals, sprayed WD-40 to dissipate any moisture. Now just spins over no attempt to run, still have spark at #1. Return line pinched, over 80 PSI in fuel rail.... What am I missing..... no check engine light. A week ago I took this truck on a 1200 mile trip it ran fine until I was within 50 miles of home then missed slightly, now won't run. HEEELLLPPPP!!!!!

disconnect maf electrical connector. if it starts maf n/g

[hgerrick]

I got my hands on a Snap On scanner, there was a P1345 code set, timing problem between cam and crank position sensor. I had had the dist out of the truck to change the intake gasket recently,evidently I didn't get it back in at the excact same spot. I can't explain why it would run so long then that start to be a problem?????? I changed the dist cap and rotor the truck ran then..... I set the camshaft retard back to spec. the truck seems to be running perfectly now! Hope it stays that way. Do those engines have a nylon timing gear??

Thanks,
HG

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by hgerrick

I got my hands on a Snap On scanner, there was a P1345 code set, timing problem between cam and crank position sensor. I had had the dist out of the truck to change the intake gasket recently,evidently I didn't get it back in at the excact same spot. I can't explain why it would run so long then that start to be a problem?????? I changed the dist cap and rotor the truck ran then..... I set the camshaft retard back to spec. the truck seems to be running perfectly now! Hope it stays that way. Do those engines have a nylon timing gear??

Thanks,
HG

it is possible the distributor cap was not set into possition properly. on another vehicle i owned i did this but my timing was so far off that i rechecked every thing and discovered i screwed up on the cap.......this is why it is very important to mark position of all these parts so when you reinstall it is very close . then use timing light if app. to lock in......

[hgerrick]

I would say not. The cap has 5 plugs on one side. 4 on the other, 1 extra for the coil wire. Plus I think there is a flat side on the cap that indexes. It was not assembled wrong. Or loose, I really dont think you could. as soon as you turned it over you would have peices of plastic all over. ( it could be loose) I dunno........I go like dis..... The coil wire also looked like it might have been leaking some fire. The rest of the plug wires in general look great At least a new coil wire to come.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by hgerrick

I would say not. The cap has 5 plugs on one side. 4 on the other, 1 extra for the coil wire. Plus I think there is a flat side on the cap that indexes. It was not assembled wrong. Or loose, I really dont think you could. as soon as you turned it over you would have peices of plastic all over. ( it could be loose) I dunno........I go like dis..... The coil wire also looked like it might have been leaking some fire. The rest of the plug wires in general look great At least a new coil wire to come.

if the coil high voltage wire was jumping to ground you will never get the engine to start. when you replace the wires use silicone grease put a small amount inside each plug/coil wire boot this will keep air/water and other contaminates from creating carbon tracks to ground.....it also keeps connections from corrosion...............inspect the coil for carbon tracks, clean or replace if necessary......

[maxwedge]

The timing correlation has to be a few degrees off to set this code. You must loosen the dist and use the scanner ot get the cam synch signal as close to 0 as possible, this must be done engine over 1k rps.

[hgerrick]

Yes the Snap On scan tool I used read cam retard. I turned the dist until I got it to -1Degree at 1200 RPM and locked it down. Looking at where the dist cap ended up I think I am off 1 tooth from where I was before I did the intake gasket. I can live with like that for now. New plug wires this week, silicon grease in the boots. I will inspect the coil as well........Thanks Guys

HG