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Knock sensor for 95 LT1
What is the differance in part numbers for Knock sensors?
I have part # 10456126 Installed on my engine, but broken. Avail part # 15762437 which is 213-96 1995 CHEVROLET IMPALA SS V8 5.7L 350cid GAS FI N Engine VIN = P Avail part # 10456207which is 213-266 All of these are for LT1's, just wondering what the differnace was. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have a 1995 Chevy Impala SS 5.7L V8 with VIN = P I'm replacing 5.7L with 383/440 from Golen and need the KS I'm thinking. Thanks for any replys.... Scott |
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Re: Knock sensor for 95 LT1
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#3
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Re: Knock sensor for 95 LT1
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if you replace the engine they should supply the correct sensors |
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#4
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Re: Knock sensor for 95 LT1
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I thought those were the ones I was suppose to use. How they got in there? I have no idea. Came with the car @ 51,000 miles. The ones in there got damaged when 5 rods came out the bottom end. They are dented and bent, reason I want to put new for the new engine. It has been a project I tell you. Not an easy just bolt'er on in. lol ![]() Thanks again for confirming correct part number for me. Scott |
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#5
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Re: Knock sensor for 95 LT1
I hate it when the rods come out like that. It almost completely ruins your day. Did you assemble with the newer PM rods, or aftermarket? Balance could be a real issue with aftermarket forged rods unless you had the weights checked.
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Re: Knock sensor for 95 LT1
Almost ruin my day? Ah Hahaha weeks later I was still paying to get it home.
Everything is balanced and blue printed this time. I hate it when those rods come out like this.... ![]() 6 PSI on a stock motor is not a good thing. Check parts for sale for a great deal on a Polished Powerdyne supercharger! http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=886203 Look at cylinder #2 rod journal. Hard to tell where the crank starts and rod journals ends. lol
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#7
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Re: Knock sensor for 95 LT1
All I can see is the #4 bore - The #2 seems to be cut off from the photo. At least it only scored it a little...
Meh, a good crank grinder should be able to dust that off in no time. A little J-B weld will fix it. Maybe some SeaFoam in the oil would be good. Actually, that looks pretty good for a ... Oh, wait, that's NOT a Honda. I could keep going. Anyway, where the rods fragged and punched through looks dangerously close to the pan rail Were you able to save the block, or not risk it?
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