1990 Accord - Cranks but wont start

[Jim Y]

Have 1990 Accord. Cranks fine but will not start. Tried jump starting with no success. Started problem with cold weather. Any clues?

[somick]

Regular maintenace? Spark plugs, wires, distributor cap?

How about fuel filter?

Do you have spark?

Sam

[Jim Y]

No have't tried anything yet. I don't know much about cars so was trying to figure out where to start.

[somick]

Originally Posted by Jim Y

No have't tried anything yet. I don't know much about cars so was trying to figure out where to start.

That is where you start: new spark plugs, new distributor cap and rotor. Probably new wires.

Good luck,

Sam

[wiseguy01]

[mpumas]

All the things suggested are the cheapest places (about $75.) to start and if they are old probably would not hurt in the process in trying to get it running. However, my method would be to determine if there is spark and fuel first, then go from there. Don't throw money at the car unless you have reasonable belief that it is in the right direction.

[jeffcoslacker]

Take the distributor cap off and see of the rotor turns when you crank the motor...if not the timing belt broke or the lower bearing in the distributor seized and sheared...

If it turns, pull one spark plug wire off a plug and put a spare plug into it, and set the business end of that plug on a grounded part of the motor (not the valve cover) and crank the motor, you want to see a nice hot white/blue spark in the plug gap.

If you have a good spark, try shooting some starting fluid into the intake. If it fires up on that and dies, the problem is fuel related.

This will at least narrow it down and we can go from there...

[ProMan]

Originally Posted by mpumas

All the things suggested are the cheapest places (about $75.) to start and if they are old probably would not hurt in the process in trying to get it running. However, my method would be to determine if there is spark and fuel first, then go from there. Don't throw money at the car unless you have reasonable belief that it is in the right direction.

That's what I would do. I won't throw money on parts blindly, no matter how cheap they are (I am cheaper.....).

The first thing I would do is check if you got spark. That's where you start. Let us know how you doing.

[Jim Y]

OK - Here's the story. I followed you advice and results are:

Rotor Turns - Good news I guess.

I replaced plugs and distributor.

Tested for spark - No spark. Does not appear to be firing.

Next steps - Should I replace wires ($25) or Ignitor ($65)? I have no idea how to locate the ignitor but autozone guy recommended these two items.

Thanks for the help.

[wiseguy01]

its gonna be your icm aka ignition control module or your cps to eliminate the icm take off distributor and take it to autozone have them test the icm its mounted internally inside the distributor and if its bad then replace distributor if not then your prob is crank position sensor but i really think its the icm i had the same problem



p.s the icm is hard as hell to replace and also i think your cps is in there too and about four other boxes also you get a lifetime warranty with the rebuilt distributor

[mpumas]

He sez he repaced the distributor so he has a new ICM (Igniter), coil, crank position sensor +2.

[wiseguy01]

Originally Posted by mpumas

He sez he repaced the distributor so he has a new ICM (Igniter), coil, crank position sensor +2.

then why does he ask to replace the ignitor then theres only one and its the icm

also the only known place for cps is in distributor

[jeffcoslacker]

See if it will run if you let the key drop back just enough from the start position that the starter stops cranking, but not all the way back to the run position...my friend's '89 developed a bad contact in the run position the other day out of the blue and wouldn't start...

I noticed that with it in run position, the accessories were on, but no display of dummy lights on the dash or clicks indicating main relay or fuel pump coming on, but if I rotated the key slightly forward or back from it's resting position it would come to life...and it would run if held there after cranking.

His would make an attempt to run each time you cranked it though, if yours is completely dead and doesn't fire at all this may not be the problem...

But see if you have idiot lights and hear relays energize with the key in the run position, if not you may have a similar issue...

[wiseguy01]

i see i had that kind of prob with my ignition switch the car would stay on if held in the start position as soon as you let go it shuts off of course as you would know that would mean i would have to grind the starter lesson learned

[mpumas]

Keep us advised on what you find.