2001 Bravada starting issue

[spddmn1]

There's been posts on here about this problem but, i figured i'd post again. My wife's Bravada takes some extra effort to start when the car has been sitting more then a few hours. After it's been driven & you go back out it fires right up. Read replies saying fuel pump, ignition switch, coil, wires, plugs, filter, cap & rotor, crank sensor. Here's what's been replaced: plugs, wires, cap & rotor. Still does it. Buddy of mine that works at the dealership says fuel pump. Bought a pressure tester today so i'll check that. If i turn the key forward but don't start it 3 or 4 times it fires right up. So i'm thinking fuel pump. Laid off for the winter so money is tight. Has anyone bought a fuel pump from the auto part store instead of the dealer? Auto Zone wants $240 for one & dealer wants close to $500. I plan on doing this myself.

Also noticed that when she gets below a 1/4 tank & the fuel light comes on it stalls out at a stop. Fuel gauge was just on the "E" line but the overhead display said distance 50 miles left. Would the overhead display be off if the pump is going bad. I remember 5 years ago when we bought it, it would say range 300 miles when the tank was full. Now it usually reads 280-something.

[old_master]

Check fuel pressure and for excessive leakdown. The console issue could very well be related to the fuel gauge in the tank. If the fuel pump needs replacement, the fuel level sender is included with the pump module.

[ken_man_1]

I have a '00 Blazer (same body and engine), and we bought a pump from Advance Auto - been in service for about 2 years now without issues. The only thing I don't buy from these discount auto stores are brake pads and rotors. Seems everything else is fine.

BTW, don't go by the computer saying how many miles you have as it's merely an estimate - it's never dead on!!

Just so you know, even just a little leakdown in pressure will cause troubles. Especially when it's cold out. We were getting somewhere around 50-55 PSI when we noticed troubles. It only lasted about 1 more week then we were pulling out the pump and replacing it. That engine needs something like 63-65 PSI to be in good shape. Good Luck!

[MT-2500]

Run a fuel pressure test for sure.
But about fuel pumps do not go for the cheapest price but the best pump.
Aftermarket parts places are having a lot of comebacks and problems with fuel pumps.
Carter used to be good and they went to pot.
Then they switched to airtex but they are now going to pot.
Carquest have now dumped airtex and have gone to the AC Delco/ Delphi OEM type pump.
I had a ford F-150 I installed 3 Airtex pumps in a row and all were bad.
Parts place sent them back in and airtex claimed they were all good.
This week a Olds Bravada came in with a new airtex pump that was way down on pressure.
I called parts place where they bougfht it and exchanged it for a Delphi oem type pump.
Runs like a new one now.

Go Delphi or Ac Delco.
Auto zone did or does have AC delco at a good price.
Good Luck
MT

[Chris Stewart]

I put an AC Delco from Autozone in my '97 with very good results.
Here's where you test for fuel pressure...pressure test kit also from Autozone.

[spddmn1]

Forgot to give an update. While i was replacing the thermostat i decided to check the fuel pressure. Well i hooked up the gauge & had the wife turn the key forward. Needle shot up all the way to 60 psi & dropped down to 0 in a matter of seconds. About as fast as the needle jumped up when turning the key forward. Forgot what it read while the car was running. Thankfully my tax return is on the way. Have to replace the right hub bearing assembly so while i'm working on the hub i'll work on the fuel pump.

[Chris Stewart]

Thanks for the update.
Take the spare tire down to get good access to the rear of the tank.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by spddmn1

Forgot to give an update. While i was replacing the thermostat i decided to check the fuel pressure. Well i hooked up the gauge & had the wife turn the key forward. Needle shot up all the way to 60 psi & dropped down to 0 in a matter of seconds. About as fast as the needle jumped up when turning the key forward. Forgot what it read while the car was running. Thankfully my tax return is on the way. Have to replace the right hub bearing assembly so while i'm working on the hub i'll work on the fuel pump.

Before throwing a fuel pump at it run a good full test on fuel pump and fuel pressure regualator.
MT

[old_master]

A rapid leakdown doesn't necessarily mean the fuel pump is faulty. If there are no external fuel leaks, it could be the check valve in the pump, the pressure regulator, or the lines in the plenum. The pump needs to be isolated from the system, somewhere between the pump and the gauge port after the system is pressurized. If the pressure holds, the fuel pump check valve is leaking. If the pressure does not hold, the regulator or fuel lines in the plenum are leaking.