Microsol vs. Microset

[Sixx]

I read in a thread by Spider360 about a good way to set decals by using a setting solution and a hair dryer. I like the idea of the hair dryer.

I always have a hard time getting the decals to conform to heavily curved body areas. What is the proper procedure? Microsol or Microset

Also, I usually dab the area to be decaled with water and float the decal on the water to set in place and use a Q-tip to roll back and forth working the water and any air bubbles out of place. This tends to leave small air bubbles at times.

I've been using Microsol and it seems to make the decal so pliable that they sometimes rip.

There is nothing more frustrating than getting a nice, smooth paint job and then the decals give ya a hassle!
Any thoughts?

[freakray]

If you apply Microsol to a decal, unless it's a pretty thick and resilient decal (which many are not), don't touch the decal.

A good wide flat tip brush with nice soft bristles works much better for working bubbles out from under the decal while it's still freshly applied.

Microset goes where the decal is going to be set, Microsol goes on after the decal has been applied.

The heat combined with the gentle pressure of the air from a hairdrier do indeed make a decal conform better.

Remember, it's better to work in stages to get a decal to conform, never try to rush as impatience as with most things in modelling will only put you closer to disaster.

In answer to your question about adding more water, keep in mind the glue on the decal itself is water soluble, the more water you apply and then remove the more glue you are removing - it's actually possibly to render a decal 'useless' by removing all the adhesive. Try to use only the amount of water necessary to remove the decal from its backing and to move it into place.

[Joe Blyth]

I've also had luck with a product called Solvaset by Walthers. It's really strong stuff - so strong, infact, that I don't use it on really delicate decals because it melts them. But on really thick decals like Tamiya ones, it works great. Used in conjunction with a hair dryer, I've had great results with it. Just don't touch the decal after you've applied the Solvaset!

[Sixx]

Great advice, though you are right, i've heard solveset is very strong and I don't want to chance it. I messed up some decals from slixx by using too strong a setting solution!
Great tips!

[Didymus]

Originally Posted by freakray

In answer to your question about adding more water, keep in mind the glue on the decal itself is water soluble, the more water you apply and then remove the more glue you are removing - it's actually possibly to render a decal 'useless' by removing all the adhesive.

Do you have a Plan B if you soak away too much adhesive?

Diddy

[CFarias]

Originally Posted by Didymus

Do you have a Plan B if you soak away too much adhesive?

Diddy

Often times there are unused glue-only areas of a decal sheet, the parts of the decal sheet that do not have decals on them. If your decal loses its glue, cut out and wet one of these area and place the decal on it. It should pick up enough glue to be usable again. This will work best from samller decals.

[935k3]

Originally Posted by Didymus

Do you have a Plan B if you soak away too much adhesive?

Diddy

Use white clear drying glue like Microscale Krystal Klear under the decal. Wipe of the excess before it drys. Its a water soluble glue and is totally safe with decals. DO NOT ever use super glue under decals.