quick mount struts

[joey71]

I have a 95 3.0 140,000--I got this quick mount strut and trying to get the spring to compress and fit the darn assembly into the tower is damn impossible to do. I cannot get it to go up in there because I do not have the height clearance, seems like I am not compressing the spring enough however with that aside once the compressor is on the spring, it is too wide to go into the tower. Spring is 7 1/2" (with the compressors its closer to 9") and the tower is 9 1/2".
Is there something Iam missing-- it will be a challenge and I have already tried it 5 times-- any suggestions??

[mechhound]

Originally Posted by joey71

I have a 95 3.0 140,000--I got this quick mount strut and trying to get the spring to compress and fit the darn assembly into the tower is damn impossible to do. I cannot get it to go up in there because I do not have the height clearance, seems like I am not compressing the spring enough however with that aside once the compressor is on the spring, it is too wide to go into the tower. Spring is 7 1/2" (with the compressors its closer to 9") and the tower is 9 1/2".
Is there something Iam missing-- it will be a challenge and I have already tried it 5 times-- any suggestions??

I'm not quite sure what you're saying. If you have the spring compressors to mount the spring on the strut, you compress the spring, set it on the strut, put the top mounting parts on the strut and install the nut on top of the strut and tighten the nut down, then remove the spring compressor tools before you install the strut into the car. OR MAYBE you have the compressor tools on the outside of the spring,(top and bottom) I think you have to hook one ring from the outside of the coil spring. It's been a while since I did this, but that's the general jist of it. Hope this helps.

[joey71]

The spring and strut are one assembly, I place the compressors on the outside of the coil. One problem is that it is not compressing enough to get the height down to fit between tower and the rotor to fit into its mounting hole on the back side of rotor. Other problem is that once the compressors are on the coil it is to big to go into the tower to mount under the hood. Hopefully this details it more. I have done this before and I do recall a tight fit but not this tight-- I feel like Iam trying to fit a large round peg into a square hole. Thank you for any input!!!

[mwt47]

You need to lower the subframe a little bit.

Mike

[joey71]

Originally Posted by mwt47

You need to lower the subframe a little bit.

Mike

And I do that how?? Sorry uncharted waters for me mate!!

[mechhound]

Originally Posted by joey71

And I do that how?? Sorry uncharted waters for me mate!!

First of all you don't need the spring compressors if the spring is already mounted on the strut. Get them out of the way. If the old one came out the new one should fit in unless the old springs were badly broken up. Are you sure the new ones are the same length? Rather than lower the subframe, you would probably need to jack the car body up more. If the new struts are the same length as the old ones and the new ones won't fit in between after jacking the body up, you will need to to a little prying or jacking between the body and the subframe depending on what tools you have, to seperate the body and subframe a little more. THIS CAN BE DANGEROUS, BE CAREFUL.

[joey71]

Ahhhh-- ummm-- NO Iam not even gonna think about doing that!!
Anyone want to buy a 1995 Ford Taurus just need to install a ready mount strut!!
Oh by the way READY MOUNT MY ACHING ASSS!!!
This is why I hate working on vehicles this crap is annoying and Iam totally frustrated and dont even want to see the damn thing anymore!!!!!

Thank you much for the help, however I do not want to deal with this!!!

[mechhound]

Originally Posted by joey71

And I do that how?? Sorry uncharted waters for me mate!!

Now that I think about it, you do need to pry the subframe down a little. If you have a bar of the right size, or a big piece of iron or maybe a small fence post. It will be easier if you have an assistant. You can tell when you have the body jacked up to the point where it won't seperate any more from the subframe, you probably already do. Some sort of pry bar in the correct place is likely the key. AGAIN, BE CAREFUL. Good luck.

[shorod]

I'm assuming you have the outer tie rod end loose from the knuckle. If not, no wonder you're having such a fight. Remove the outer tie rod end from the knuckle.

If the tie rod end is removed, the hub should be floppy and easily get out of the way of the strut. Start the three nuts that hold the strut plate in, but don't tighten them yet. To get clearance to start the bottom of the strut into the pinch opening, I've been able to use a pry bar between the anti-sway bar and subframe to pry the lower control arm a bit lower, just enough to gain clearance to push the hub onto the bottom of the strut, then release the pry bar and it should fall in place. I've never loosened the subframe or had a CV joint fall apart using this method.

Oh yeah, be sure to go around the inside pinch opening of the hub with sandpaper prior to trying to slip it over the new strut, it will make it much easier.

-Rod

[mwt47]

Don't PRY the subframe at all

Support the car on Jackstands
Then put a jack under the subframe.

Loosen the rear subframe bolts on each side until they are free

Then thread them in 4 complete turns which will keep the subframe from coming completely loose.

Then lower the jack and allow the subframe to come down a little.

you should then be able to put the strut up thru the top mounts and also be able to start the strut itself in the knuckle.

Get everything loosely put together then jack the subframe back up and torque the bolts back to their specified torque ( I forget what it is off the top of my head but I know you already have a Haynes or CHiltons manual, Don't you)

If you need to you can put a jack under the knuckle to get it in place so you can tighten the pinch bolt.

Then do your pinch bolts and you should be good to go.

I assume you already took the brake caliper off and tied it to something.

Done it that way a bunchof times.

Takes about 30 minutes a side.


Mike

[shorod]

Originally Posted by mwt47

Don't PRY the subframe at all

Mike

Not sure I can explain my comment without a picture. I didn't say to pry the subframe, rather use the subframe as a non-moving piece to pry against. Place a long breaker bar through the opening created by the subframe and the anti-sway bar, then apply force downward on the handle of the breaker bar. This using the compliance of the rubber bushings and grommets in the suspension (not the subframe) to allow just enough extra clearance between the knuckle/hub and the bottom of the strut assembly.

Either way will work I imagine, I've just had luck with this method rather than dropping the subframe. Lowering the subframe probably provides less risk for flinging a breaker bar across the garage and hoping it doesn't hit anything along the way.

-Rod

[joey71]

You my friend are my HERO!!!
I did not have the outer tie rod end loose!! I got that loose- got out the B F wrecking bar (3' long) using the subframe for leverage pushing down (15 yr old standing on it) on the control arm (? hub attached to it) and that allowed me about 3/8" to slide that bad boy in its spot.
Thank you everyone for chiming in it really did help-- was very frustrated when a damn jack falls over and your in a freaking driveway-- IT SUCKS!!! But Iam sure we can all relate-- I wish I had that garage and the snap on box.

Originally Posted by shorod

I'm assuming you have the outer tie rod end loose from the knuckle. If not, no wonder you're having such a fight. Remove the outer tie rod end from the knuckle.

If the tie rod end is removed, the hub should be floppy and easily get out of the way of the strut. Start the three nuts that hold the strut plate in, but don't tighten them yet. To get clearance to start the bottom of the strut into the pinch opening, I've been able to use a pry bar between the anti-sway bar and subframe to pry the lower control arm a bit lower, just enough to gain clearance to push the hub onto the bottom of the strut, then release the pry bar and it should fall in place. I've never loosened the subframe or had a CV joint fall apart using this method.

Oh yeah, be sure to go around the inside pinch opening of the hub with sandpaper prior to trying to slip it over the new strut, it will make it much easier.

-Rod

[shorod]

Glad to hear you got your strut installed, and glad the forum could be of assistance!

Congratulations!

-Rod