|
|
| Search | Car Forums | Gallery | Articles | Helper | Air Dried Beef Dog Food | IgorSushko.com | Corporate |
|
|||||||
| Car Modeling Share your passion for car modeling here! Includes sub-forum for "in progress" and "completed" vehicles. |
![]() |
Show Printable Version |
Subscribe to this Thread
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
What do you use to glue ur lights on with?
please help i dont want to end up with fog.
|
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
Krystal Klear by Microscale, most hobby shops stock it. It's a water based white glue that dries clear, and if you mess up, you can wash it off.
__________________
There is a lesson in every kit. |
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
I use Testors clear parts cement & window maker for all clear parts,but some modelers use clear enamel or white glue.
|
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
the stuff is awsome IMHO |
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
I just bought some tacky glue. it dries clear so it should work, but I havnt tried it out yet.
__________________
Ryan If your new to the AF modeling forum please read this : AF modeling FAQ Current Project: Tamiya Porsche Boxster Special Edition |
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
I love using Formula 560 canopy glue. It's like very sticky white glue, it holds parts well while it dries, and messes can be wiped clean w/a damp towel before it dries. It dries clear. Great stuff, designed for gluing aircraft canopies. I also use it to glue parts to the body like spoilers. No chance of damage you might get from missing the mark w/superglue. I think it's stronger than Micro Krystal Klear. Watch crystal cement works well too, and also clear Tamiya acrylic or Future floor wax.
|
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
THIS IS THE SHIT! plus if u break a small peice off or need to make a new trun signal or small ghlass peice u can do it with this sutff. |
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
|
Elmers white glue user here... can be removed even after it's dry.
__________________
Recent stuff: ![]() Singapore scale modeling site at http://machinemess.singaporeanimenews.net |
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
|
This Krystal Klear stuff sounds like the ticket, will have to order some soon.
However if you don't have access to the likes of Krystal Klear you could try what I use which is clear gloss paint. I use Testors enamel but acrylics would probably work just as well. Just apply a tiny amount with a brush, let it dry a bit to 'tack up', then position the part. Takes a short while to dry of course and the bond is not as strong as some regular glues but for light lenses and small PE parts it is more than enough. Last edited by RallyRaider; 01-25-2003 at 03:03 PM. |
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
|
White glue, cheap and easily available. There are special glues for modelling, but they are expensive and not very easily found.
__________________
Beginner in car modelling ----------------------- Currently working on: Academy 1:35 Hummer, semi-scratchbuilt rollcage, scratchbuilt seat(s), scratchbuilt dashboard, Civic Sir2 wheels (22inch), smoothened body, radiator exhaust vent... |
|
#11
|
||||
|
||||
|
Btw Ghost_9418 if the glue dries clear it doesnt mean it cannot damage the clear part.
__________________
|
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
|
Kristal Klear if I need a lot of stick, otherwise any old white glue/wood glue/PVA. If ind it's the same as Kristal Klear but a little less stickey. A whole lot cheaper and easier to find mind you...
__________________
My current work- ![]()
|
| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
![]() |
POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD |
![]() |
|
|