What is the best budget street racing car?

[GreatOne01]

Just like the other very popular topic except I'm wondering what is the best street racing car under 10000US. What I mean is if the car only costs 5000, the rest goes into mods.

[Layla's Keeper]

I'm going to go against my usual statement and say that you might want to look at a 3rd generation 350ci V8 Camaro. They can be made to handle quite nicely, actually. There's tons of them in the A Sedan class in SCCA competition. Plus they've got bunches of aftermarket parts, great availability, and there's really no way to break them. You could buy a decent '85 with manual for around 3000, pour 3k into the suspension, and the remaining 4k into the engine/transmission and have a 10sec car that also pulls .9+ G's on the skidpad. The problems I see are insurance and stealth. Insurance companies automatically think that if you own a Camaro, you're going to do something stupid. Plus, Camaros aren't low profile cars, so don't expect to sneak up on unsuspecting drivers too often.

With that sort of money, there's plenty of import options, too. DSM cars (Talons, Lazers, Eclipses), Nissan 240SX's with SR20DET transplants, turbo FC RX-7's, Mitsubishi Starions, Porsche 924's and 944's (ha, beat you to it, CBass), Subaru Impreza 2.5RS coupes, 80's Toyota Supras (first gen samurais and 2nd gen turbos), and a whole lot of classic British sports cars like my Layla (1970 MGB GT, if you don't know).

It mostly comes down to taste, but these are just some of your options. Choose well, and grab your own gears. It's always more fun that way.

[TerminalVelocity]

classic muscle for speed
many many imports for handling

[-The Stig-]

2nd Generation Camaro/Firebird 1970-1973.

Endless supply of Suspension upgrades, and Mindless aftermarket support for a Non-Smog V8.

Not to mention you can get good gas milege if you know how.

Cars can be picked up for about $3000 in decent condition, Motors are usually strong cause people are always upgrading them but if you feel compelled to replace it.. a new motor can run you $1200-$4000 depending on your 'output' desires. Suspension work shouldnt be much more than $2000 for a whole new setup. All together it would be about a $8000 project with $2000 left to go towards maybe a 6-speed? hehe.


Just my .02

[Fliquer]

Definitely have to go with the Nissan 240sx w/ sr20det swap. That or a gen 1 mr2 blown out the ass.

[Misundaztood]

I'm gonna half to go with either a first-gen turbo DSM or a 5.0 Mustang. Both can be had for 5 grand very easily & both have an endless supply of aftermarket parts. However, word of caution, DSM's(especially the 1Gs)are not excactly realiable....

[Cbass]

For $10,000, you can make anything go fast and handle well. $10K will buy a built engine and a complete suspension swap, so it just comes down to personal taste.

For a Ford, how about a '90 LX Mustang, with a $2000 built 400M and C6 combo making 425hp/500ftlbs, IRS from a Cobra, or MN12 Thunderbird SC? Fiberglass hood and doors, lightweight seats, maybe 3000 lbs, with a lot of power.

For a Chevy, how about an original Z24 Cavalier with a supercharged Buick 3800 series 2 swap? Tune that engine for around 300hp, and 300ftlbs easily enough. Add the lightweight parts, get it down to around 2700 lbs...

For a Mazda, how about a Turbo 2 RX7 FC with a grand under the hood? That'll make 400hp without trouble. Suspension upgrades? How about any suspension setup, from a plush street job, to full out IMSA race gear?

Or if you don't require the engine to be of the same make as the car, I'll go with my classic recommendation. Get a Series 2 RX7(81-85 12A equipped cars), and swap out the engine for a Ford 5.0 HO EFI engine. 2300lbs, 50/50 weight balance, and as much power as you can afford. You can build a 450hp pump gas 5.0 for a couple thousand, and a full coilover kit isn't very much either. Add a nice body kit to the equation, and you've got 10 second car, that runs on pump gas, and will turn lap times equal to track cars.

[Cbass]

Sorry Redneck, just had to make the Chevy a Cavalier :P

Octagon, you're a bastard :hehehe:

I forgot to add my other personal favourite, although it's not the best suited to a straight line, and you'll only be able to beat C4 Corvettes...

1988 Fiero GT, with a 3400 TDC engine swap, and a complete engine build, good for 305hp at 8500rpm, 250ftlbs at 6000rpm. Save weight where you can, and you have a 2700 lb car, which can run with Vipers on the strip, and eat them alive on the road course

[hybridsol]

Originally posted by Cbass
For a Mazda, how about a Turbo 2 RX7 FC with a grand under the hood?

what no porshe?

[Cbass]

Originally posted by hybridsol

what no porshe?

Aha, no, I only recommend Porsches to people who I think deserve them.. if every idiot who was looking for a nice car bought a Porsche, we would see a lot more abused Stuttgart stallions in the junkyard

Oh, my Nazism has officially expanded to include BMW

[-The Stig-]

Originally posted by Cbass

Or if you don't require the engine to be of the same make as the car, I'll go with my classic recommendation. Get a Series 2 RX7(81-85 12A equipped cars), and swap out the engine for a Ford 5.0 HO EFI engine. 2300lbs, 50/50 weight balance, and as much power as you can afford. You can build a 450hp pump gas 5.0 for a couple thousand, and a full coilover kit isn't very much either. Add a nice body kit to the equation, and you've got 10 second car, that runs on pump gas, and will turn lap times equal to track cars.

UM We've got to disagree (TerminalV and I are sitting here.. alone ... at 12:24am... because a girl wouldnt see us )

TerminalV's Thoughts: Its extremely hard to pump out 450hp out of a 5.0 on pump gas the compression would be way too high (Maybe give us a list of parts?). Unless you go supercharged you can run a lower compression ratio... or a healthy dose of N20. Also a 5.0 built up like that, Wouldnt be good for Circle Track Racing. It would be mostly a torque motor for Drag Racing. Also First Generation Rx-7's have been known to have serious aerodynamic problems. Unless you put on a bodykit with airfoils and maybe a wing. Even then they still have problems. Stock w/ 300hp they're known to 'pick' up off the ground and lose all control!:bandit:

My Thoughts: I personally dont believe you could have a car with 450hp in such a light body run 10s... Without tubbing the car. And if you Tubb the car then it would handle like crap for the Road Racing. Thus you wouldnt be able to hang with anything.

And what about the Fiero? If you put in a 3800 series II S/C motor (225hp-240hp) You'll be able to turn mid 13s easy. And C4 Corvette's aren't slugs people think... '85 Corvettes ran a 0-60 in 5.7 and a 14.1 stock. :frog:

[DemonZX]

In other words, it depends on where you want your speed. Do you want to go fast in a straight line, or do you want to hit the twisties? If you are just going to use it to drag I would say get "anything" with a 350. There are tons and tons of suff available for them for not that expensive. If you want to go import go with an older Z or RX-7. Light weight and pretty powerful.

Good luck buddy!

[Cbass]

I have to work out some deal with Igor where I get to murder the old server after he upgrades. AAAAHHHH!!!! I just lost my post including the engine buildup, and about a dozen pics of aerodynamic aids for the RX7...

Oh well, I guess I'll just write it again... Okay, 347 stroker kit, 10-11:1 compression, TF Twisted wedge heads, with 2.02 intakes, 1.60 exhausts, TF Track Heat intake manifold/plenum, Crane Powermax cam ( http://www.cranecams.com/master/apps...#3.%20PowerMax ), EFI upgrades including MAF sensor, injectors, fuel pump, EEC microtuner blah blah blah, add a MSD box and more powerful coil to supplement the ignition, and your good. At this point, you might just want to go with a stand alone digital distributorless ignition system, because it would be about the same cost, for much better results.

As for the aerodynamics, they do have to be cleaned up. A flush air dam, side skirts, and a spoiler for downforce help, and underbody panels made from steel sheet make a world of difference, and add signifigantly to your total downforce. Now, a 450hp 2300lb car is not going to do 10s on an 8" tire, which is about the most you can fit in a series two without either tubbing or flaring. Tubbing will ruin your handling, but flaring will improve it, and allow you to widen your track, lowering your centre of gravity, and increasing your track to wheelbase ratio.

There are a number of good body kits out there for the first gen, I think the first one here is the best for dragging, as it gives the most room for rubber in the back. It's ugly as sin though...



I like this one quite a bit more, it's a knockoff of the popular Mariah kit, although it is lighter.



This is the one I'll probably get, unless I can find a better deal locally.





The reason I recommend the 3400 TDC is because it was the ultimate evolution of the 60 degree V6, and was severely detuned for production. It was actually designed to be the F body engine, but people wanted the 305 and 350 :hehehe: , same story as the SV0 Mustang.

On the dyno, their production model made 270hp, at 7000rpm. You can imagine how with proper tuning, this quad cam 3.4 liter V6 could make some serious power.

[RACER D12]

Oh, my Nazism has officially expanded to include BMW

Welcome to the darkside:smoker2:

[-The Stig-]

HAHA 10:1-11:1 Compression.. Thats Just Barely Pump gas... you're so far up there on octane boost its not even funny.

My motor makes 10.25:1 Compression and it'll be stuck at a minimum of 91 octane and i'll have to add Octane boost.. or Race Gas to get the best performance out of it.

I wouldnt consider a motor making over 10:1 compression a Pump Gas motor... it is. But its so on the verge its not really that economical cause you still have to use so many additives or use a Race Gas mixture.

And Yes, the muscle cars that are Pre-70 era do have high compression ratios. Thats because they were running a Leaded Gas. In 1971 everything was changed to run on Unleaded thus Compression ratios dropped and so did Horsepower.

Anywho... you can squeek by on just 91. It may have a tendency to ping slightly but you can get by.