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#1
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Clutch hydralics?
My car won't get any gears in and the pedal has no pressure at all. My mechanic said it was probably the master cylinder because i never changed it. But i looked at the area were the slave cylinder is and it was leaking. This was wierd because i changed it only 3 months ago. So i added fluid because the resevoir was empty and pumped it, but then it leaked out somwhere... If i do have to change the master cylinder do i have to take the booster out first from under the dash (vr4) becuase i know that the non turbos don't have a booster and the master cylinder are designed differently. Please help?
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#2
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Re: Clutch hydralics?
I think you should first find the exact source of the leak. If you see it's all wet around the slave, then why would you go and change the master? Is it wet on the inside of the car near the booster? Was the slave that you bought new or refurbished? The line could have loosened up or never been fully tightened and is now leaking.
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1997 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - 269AWHP/290AWTQ (Mustang Dyno) - [email protected] - 1.756 60ft. - [email protected] (Best TDO4-9B Time) - Driver Mod - IPS TD04-19TL - SPEC 4+ - Wiseco Pistons - 3SX Custom Forged Rods - PMP FMIC + Much More.
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#3
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Re: Clutch hydralics?
Buy a slave rebuild kit from jason bet (on here) and replace the seals in your slave cylinder so you know its right. But the easy way to make sure your having a leaking issue is to put some fluid into the clutch resevoir and pump the clutch, if it gains pressure then looses it then you have a leak, go find it (i know easier said than done) but this way you are sure of whats bad and only waisted a $3 bottle of fluid.
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1992 Mitsu 3000gt sl 5sp - High flow filter - Pioneer head, dual 10's - H4 headlight conversion - Throttle Body Spacer - The "For God's sake stop that infernal buzzing" mod - LED "Snake Eyes" - Lightweight Crank Pulley -More to come- ![]() Your 3000GT is the 5095th out of 6964 . Only 41exactly identical Bloody Knuckles from Changing Fuel Filter Crew Member #1 |
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#4
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Re: Clutch hydralics?
Yeah thats what happened when i put fluid in i just need to find the leak. My slave shouldnt be leaking should it because its new? My master has never been replaced and my mechanics advised me to change it. So that's why i kind of want to change both. Is it true you have to change both at the same time or else one fails. Perhaps that's why my slave failed only after 3 months.
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#5
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Re: Clutch hydralics?
^^Some people have had issues with that: change one and then a couple months later the other fails. Change the other and a couple months later the initial new one fails. Others have just changed 1 and have had absolutely no issues whatsoever. Kinda random...yeah...
At any rate, as Twizted_3KGT said, you need to find the source of the leak. Maybe your hose is leaking somewhere!?! If you do find that the slave is the culprit, personally, I'd change both the master and the slave just to be safe. That's what I did when my slave was leaking and haven't had an issue since. Good luck.
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#6
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Re: Clutch hydralics?
Quote:
Without pinpointing the leak you're just throwing parts at the car. Yeah there's a chance it will work, but if it doesn't you're just wasting time and money.
__________________
1997 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - 269AWHP/290AWTQ (Mustang Dyno) - [email protected] - 1.756 60ft. - [email protected] (Best TDO4-9B Time) - Driver Mod - IPS TD04-19TL - SPEC 4+ - Wiseco Pistons - 3SX Custom Forged Rods - PMP FMIC + Much More.
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#7
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Re: Clutch hydralics?
ok i know that my slave is leaking, and i can change that because ive done it but how on earth do you take the master cylinder out? seems like the brake booster has to be moved? how would you move that? Lastly anyone have instructions on installation clutch lines? Thanks again
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#8
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Re: Clutch hydralics?
Quote:
__________________
Black 96 3000Gt Vr4 58k mi, H.H.H. Data logger, RPS MAX, Big16G/14b Combo, FMIC, AEM EUGO, Greddy EBC, SAFC II, 560's, hotwired 255lph, not cats, Solid motor mounts, Faze boost gauge, Apexi turbo timer, full exhaust with 3" ICH Single shot Catback, K&N Air Filter, Front upper strut brace, T-Case Bracket, AC delete, Meth injection, NGK stg 1 colder, 8k HID'S. AIMING FOR 500+AWHP at ips dyno.
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