Cam seal, crank seal, water pump questions

[f100240]

I have to replace the water pump on my 1995 1.3 L automatic. The factory service manual says to lock the crankshaft with a blade screwdriver prior to removing the crankshaft sprocket bolt, but it doesn't show how to do it. Is this possible? It also shows that the camshaft can be locked with a 10 mm rod into a slot in it. It also says that all valve adjusting screws on the rocker arms must be loosened before adjusting the timing belt. Is that necessary? Concerning the cam seal, what is the easiest way to deal with it without turning the camshaft? Thanks for the help.

I should mention that I don't necessarily trust the factory manual as I have found several errors in it on other issues.

[91Caprice9c1]

Originally Posted by f100240

I have to replace the water pump on my 1995 1.3 L automatic. The factory service manual says to lock the crankshaft with a blade screwdriver prior to removing the crankshaft sprocket bolt, but it doesn't show how to do it. Is this possible?

Yes. You must remove the inspection cover at the bottom of the bell housing (2x 10mm hex bolts). This way you will jam the flexplate (flywheel) with a large screwdriver. This bolt is on TIGHT and you will likely either need a breaker bar or a hammer in conjunction with a closed-end wrench (17mm) to get it loose.

Originally Posted by f100240

It also shows that the camshaft can be locked with a 10 mm rod into a slot in it.

I don't know about this, because for the cam and crank sprockets I use an impact wrench.. but If I were you, I'd do this one first, utilizing the jammed up flywheel, and then going down to the crank sprocket. This one should be nice and tight also.

Originally Posted by f100240

It also says that all valve adjusting screws on the rocker arms must be loosened before adjusting the timing belt. Is that necessary?

Not only is it unnecessary, it's impossible, as there are no rocker adjustment apparatuses on the car. Ignore that.

Originally Posted by f100240

Concerning the cam seal, what is the easiest way to deal with it without turning the camshaft? Thanks for the help.

Turn the cam all you want, you wont hurt anything. Your engine is non-interference.

Originally Posted by f100240

I should mention that I don't necessarily trust the factory manual as I have found several errors in it on other issues.

IMHO - It sounds like you need to use this thing to light your fireplace.

-MechanicMatt

[f100240]

91Caprice, thank you for your timely and complete reply. I have another question. The Haynes and factory manuals both show two small rubber seals between the water pump and cylinder head and the water pump and oil pump. They say to put new ones on after the pump is installed. My local GM parts department doesn't show these on their screen. They said they must come with the new pump, but the one I got from Autozone doesn't have them. Can the old ones be safely reused? Thanks.

[91Caprice9c1]

All I've ever seen between the water pump and the block is a simple paper gasket.

The only o-rings I can think of in the area might be for the dipstick tube, and the inlet tube (goes into rear of water pump). Don't mess with that inlet tube if it's not leaking.

The dipstick tube should probably be removed, or at least loosened enough to move around, because you'll need the access to remove the 12mm top alternator bracket bolt.

There is no emergent requirement to replace the dipstick tube o-ring. Unless it looks cracked, feels stiff or has a flatened circumference, feel free to reuse it.

Once you pull 'er apart and get your hands wet, you'll see that you've been prepared all along. It's just the manuals you've got that are mixing you up.

-MechanicMatt

[leonbentz]

I would never pop out used seals and re-use them. The best thing to do, is just buy a new one. They're pretty in-expensive and better assurance.

Locking the cam, with (2)10 mm rods is a good idea, because you'll need to remove the cam timing gear, to remove the seal. Be careful about puting the 10 mm rods, through the holes of the cam, it's easy to get your fingers pinched. It is best to put something between the rods and the surface they'll press against, simply to prevent any possibility of damaging the gasketing surface for the valve cover. Something like a piece of leather or wood, will be sufficient.
To remove and replace the seal, just loosen the cam bearing cap with the seal in it. Hold the new seal in the seat while tightening the cam bearing bolts back up. Be sure to use Cam Guard on the seal and surfaces.

About the manuals: I totally agree with 91Caprice9c1. My Haynes was completely useless for my rebuild. It seemed like a page was missing, with specs needed for checking journal sizes and other stuff. Totally bunk. What the hell is the big secret?? If you lunk heads are going to sell us information and make money doing so, then we want some beef! I liked Haynes in the past, but this dissappointed me. Chiltons and Clymers are just as useless.

Thank God for AF Forums.opcorn:

[Crvett69]

they are not seals, they are little rubber blocks that slide in after you have replaced the water pump, all they do is seal the 2 slots between pump and motor so when you put timing belt cover back on it keeps the dust out. just put a little silicone sealent on old ones and slide them back in

[leonbentz]

Are you talking about the backing plate, that goes behind the timing belt cover? Yes, there are a few sponge blocks on those to keep dust out, but I was referring to the seal that goes on the end of the cam, under the timing gear.

The little sponge blocks like to crumble, when they're old, so just clean up the backing plate and apply some sponge type weather stripping and you're good to go. Use gasket sealer to seal them up, like Crvett69 says and that's it.