HVAC box

[J-Ri]

1998 2.4L
Manual HVAC control w/ A/C

I need to replace the HVAC assembly, and am wondering whether or not the whole dash needs to be removed. It's hard to tell for sure just by looking, but I'd guess the dash does need to be removed. I'd just hate to remove it only to find out I didn't need to. Anything I should be aware of prior to R&R?

Also, how long of a job is it? I absolutely HATE underdash work, and driving it only during the summer is an option, but when I sell it in a couple years I know I'll get a LOT more if the heater works.

[xeroinfinity]

It's no picnic!~ The dash doesn't need to be removed.


This link might help you out.

Not sure on the exact time through mitchell Int, but at least 4-6 hrs.

.... And a trip to the chiropractor.

[J-Ri]

I was asking about the box/case itself (some idiot broke out big chunks of the plastic on both sides while replacing the heater core... last time I buy a car thinking "well, it probably just needs..."), not just the heater core. I've done many heater cores on the GM cars, and it only takes a couple hours where the console interferes. I just wanted to make sure the time and no dash removal was for the heater core only, before I try it (probably this weekend)

[xeroinfinity]

Well I'd personaly try fixing the chunks without removing the entire box.
It would be 4-6 hrs to pull the whole thing out.

So it is the back half of the case thats broke ??
If it is just the front cover go to a salvage yard and pic one up.
I'd silicone around the two halfs.

[J-Ri]

Originally Posted by xeroinfinity

Well I'd personaly try fixing the chunks without removing the entire box.
It would be 4-6 hrs to pull the whole thing out.

So it is the back half of the case thats broke ??
If it is just the front cover go to a salvage yard and pic one up.
I'd silicone around the two halfs.

Yeah, it's the back half, the upper strap was missing too (probably because there is no longer anything to screw it to ). I tried duct taping over the holes, and taping the heater core to the box, but it didn't increase the temp very much, only a few degrees. I was going to spread some JB weld over the tape to make it solid, but the tape's still in place and the temperature increase was almost non-existant, so I'm not going to waste two more hours (plus dry time) taking it apart again to try it.

I'm going off memory here, so I may be a bit off. Above and to the front of the heater core there is a door. I believe it's the temp blend door. I thought the opening needed to be partially blocked off (doesn't look like it seals on the back(?) side), but a co-worker said that they're all completely open. I've done dozens of these heater cores, and don't recall ever seeing that open before. He's been a technician 3x longer than me, so I just assumed he was right. Do you know what it should be like? I'll try to get a picture of it, my memory is hazy sometimes, and my descriptions aren't always great.

[xeroinfinity]

Duct tape is ok for a temp fix, but as soon as it heats up to 100+ degrees the tape will come loose.

Yeah it should be open so the blend door can move freely.

[J-Ri]

I'm pretty sure the tape was still on. I don't think it's getting anywhere near that hot. The heater core itself is 170 degrees, I honestly don't know why it isn't working.

What would you recomend I patch it with?

[xeroinfinity]

If I couldnt find a replacement, I'd cut out the area square. Then salvage some abs black plastic from somewhere and cut a filler piece.
Probly a cut it for a loose fit so epoxy or something could hold it in better. Then cover it with some of that (chrome) heat tape for home funrnace ducts to make it look pretty.

Or if it's not visible(or it doesnt matter to you) you could use some fiberglass patch stuff. That usualy sticks to plastic pretty well.

[J-Ri]

Thanks, I'll probably be doing it Saturday. I'll let you know how that works.