borg warner 4405 transfer seal.

[strongworx]

I am replacing the rear output seal and the yolk locknut wont budge.I have a breaker bar on it and its soaked with liquid wrench too.I'm putting my foot on the bar and I feel like I'm gonna crack the dang case.What should I do?Heat it?Im afraid it might catch fire.I was leaking for a while.Am I doing something wrong here?Thanks<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l6/onions2006/44052.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

[shorod]

Information about the year and engine may be of more benefit on the forum than the transfer case model number.

Looking at the factory service manual for the 2000 model year, the manufacturer instructs the technician to install the flange holding tool onto the flange, then remove the nut. Typically there will be a note in the text if the nut threads are left-hand threads. No such not exists in the service manual instructions for a 2000 model year with the Auto Shift transfer case.

-Rod

[strongworx]

Thanks for the reply.I have put the drive shaft back up for now until I get solid info.Goint to call a dealership tomorrow.Its just a nylon type locknut.Strange.Not rusty either.Book says torque specs are between 150-180 ft lbs.Not too much for a breaker bar to snap loose.I'm beginning to think maybe it was cross threaded at the factory or something.I have put my foot on the breaker bar and pushed to the point of feeling like I was going to crack the case or bust some teeth inside.Its very odd to me.It doesnt seem to need to be on that strongly,its just the yoke.Hopefully I will get some answers tomorrow.I will also be asking how much it would cost to simply have them do it.That way,if they crack the thing,I'm covered.ummmm maybe......thanks again.