92 Lesabre Clicking noise when shifting gears

[Andreas E.]

Hi all!

I have a 92 Lesabre Limited with about 142k miles on it. I recently started noticing that under normal acceleration, there is an audible click just before the transaxle shifts from 1st to 2nd. Sometimes I can hear it from 2nd to 3rd as well, but only under really hard acceleration. When I drive very cautiously, it's either not audible at or or just barely. I recently had replaced one of the tubes between the tranny cooler and the tranny and did a tranny fluid change w/ filter as well. Now the other tube (actually the rubber hose) has started leaking as well, right where it approaches the cooler. Is this an internal problem (hope not) or could it be something external, such as mounts or even just something hitting because of the shift in torque during the shift process? Does anybody have any suggestions?

Thanks!

Andreas

[spinne1]

More details as to the sound would be helpful. One click or several? Does it sound loud or soft? Metallic or not? How far apart are the clicks? Does the car's performance feel different during the clicking? Is your tranny slipping up hills when accelerating hard?

[Andreas E.]

It's only when shifting gears, or just a split second prior, and only then, only once. The more load or harder acceleration, the louder. It sounds metallic, at the loudest like a clack. It does not appear to affect the performance nor does the tranny seem to be slipping. I have also noticed a "loose" feeling in the suspension with my left foot on the floorboard, and can "feel" the clack as well. Today I had to use the kickdown to accelerate on the freeway, as it shifted into third, it was just as audible (and feelable) as what it does when going from first to second. My guess is a suspension related issue, or perhaps the halfshaft? But I could be wrong.

[HotZ28]

Have you checked the left front trans mount?

[Andreas E.]

No, but I'll check that out. How can you tell if it's busted?

[HotZ28]

Start the engine, hold your foot on the brake peddle (with E-brake applied), put in drive and bring the engine up to around 1200 rpm while watching for the rubber mount to separate from the metal part of the mount. Of course, if this is your first time, you will need someone to do the above, while you watch the mount. I normally raise the hood, put the car in gear, hold the brake and watch the engine flex from inside the car through the windshield at the hood opening. If the engine lifts up in the front more than ½ in with brake applied, the mount is broken! If it is the mount, do not replace it with an Anchor brand, otherwise you will be doing it again soon! Use only Pioneer, or GM replacement mounts.

[Andreas E.]

Would Westar be ok? I keep stumbling across this brand. I don't want to go the "duralast" route...

[Andreas E.]

Or the Napa brand? BTW, which is better for the read? Hydraulic (as in OEM) or solid rubber? In case I need to replace both.

[Andreas E.]

Is there a certain order that you are supposed to attach the mount to the transmission (with the 1/2" bolts?) I cannot get them aligned right! I am either about 1/4" off in the height on the left bolt or 1/4" in width on the top bolt. The mount is flush on the crossmember. Since I did not want to reinstall the totally busted old mount I drove to work with only two of the three bolts on, but all torqued to spec.

[spinne1]

Originally Posted by Andreas E.

Is there a certain order that you are supposed to attach the mount to the transmission (with the 1/2" bolts?) I cannot get them aligned right! I am either about 1/4" off in the height on the left bolt or 1/4" in width on the top bolt. The mount is flush on the crossmember. Since I did not want to reinstall the totally busted old mount I drove to work with only two of the three bolts on, but all torqued to spec.

I'm not certain what exactly you have replaced but if it is the front trans mount you need to support the engine with either a hoist or good jack from below (using a board to protect the oil pan), raise the engine up an inch or two towards the engine/tranny attachment area and then attach the mount to the tranny first (loosely) and then line up the mount-to-frame studs through their holes through trial and error of lowering and raising the engine while tugging on the engine to try and line it up right until the studs go through the holes (I believe there are only two studs to drop through the frame holes.) Once the studs are through the holes screw the nuts on the studs at least enough to not fall off! Once this is done, tighten the tranny to mount bolts and then lower the engine/tranny down and then wiggle the whole thing good to try and get the engine seated in its natural position as best you can and then tighten the two nuts. That's what I do anyhow.

[Andreas E.]

Yes, it's the front left. I loosely attached the mount to the crossmember first, then tried to attach it to the transmission. I'll take it back out and try reverse order. I have a 3 ton jack with which I did lift the trans/engine the way you had described.