What you need for Neon Rear Disc Swap.

[Classicrocjunkie]

XRP p/n's--

FEMALE TO MALE BULKHEAD ADAPTERS
410103 - M10x1.0 Inverted Flare..........3AN-- They connect the stock 3/16th brake lines into the 3an male fittings on the SS brake lines.

Crush washer seal adapters to neon Calipers
402933 - 7/16 x 20 thread seal ............3AN to SS brake lines

Crush Washer seal adapters to J body front calipers
425033 - M10x1.5 thread seal ..............3AN to SS brake lines


XRP catalog ( PDF) file

Chrysler Rear Caliper brackets. 95-99 Neon Sport, Neon SRT-4, Chrysler PT cruiser, 98 Dodge Intrepid. The neon ones are the easiest to find. These your going to have to snag from a yard or somewhere like that.

Get them machined to accommodate your J-body rear wheel bearing. Here are the specs of a J's rear wheel bearing.





Remove all your old drum hardware and wheel bearing.

You need to grind the 3 nubs off the top of this so the caliper bracket can sit with no hitting issues.



install back plate trimmed down A LOT like you see here and connect e-brake on the actuator.





This took me a while to figure out, i put a screw driver through the end end loop and pulled on the cable and then slide this in place where the last pic shows. You also have to use a grinder to trim the inner part of the actuator so there is no movement in the parking shoes.



Assemble everything..



couple other things. I am skimping out on a lot of directions because below is a video that was made to step by step this process.

Neon Disc Swap Vid

As for calipers to make things easy for you guys. Go to autozone and ask for calipers from a 99 neon sport with the 7/16 x 20 thread pattern. There are 2 options.

Parking shoes will be a little tough to find. I had to get mine at pepboys. Same deal, get em for that neon.

Pads, and rotors.. damn deal, unless you have SRT-4 calipers and mounting brackets don't try to get SRT-4 rotors because they are slightly larger in diameter.

.. Have fun kiddies. They make a world of difference, and so much easier to work with than drums.

[Classicrocjunkie]

I also have the contact information for the guy who machined my brackets and threw the kit together. Or if you have questions along the way, i'll be more than willing to lend advice since i did it on my own after watching that video. flaring the brake lines is honestly the hardest part of all this. Or stripping out one of the torx bolts. ha ha.. then having to drill it out like i did.

[1991tercel]

wow you could probably print off those top two pics and send them to get machined.

[1991tercel]

Can I Bug you for some more pictures?

[Classicrocjunkie]

what do you need pictures of?

[chiquita_banana]

Did you have to use an inline residual pressure valve?

[Classicrocjunkie]

I ran that without one, but I would suggest one. My pedal feel was inconsistent even after bleeding it 7-8 times. Wilwood makes a 2psi residual pressure valve for disc brakes.

[chiquita_banana]

Did you have to use spacers/washers for anything? I read the Neon Swap thread on j-body.org, and James Cahill and Josh Dearman said something about the rotor rubbing against the backing plate. Does the parking brake work on your setup? The reason I'm asking is because my brother is parting his 97 Neon Sport and I got the rear caliper brackets before anybody could, and I want to do this mod on my Cavy. I hear people say "Ahh, it's not even worth it," but you know what, brake pads are so much easier to work with than drums.

[J-Ri]

If you're doing this conversion only to be able to do a brake job easily, I'd advise against doing it. The first reason is that you'll have much more time, work, and money in the conversion than you will in a couple drum brake jobs. Also, the drum-in-hat parking brake shoes are very thin and need to be adjusted if they're ever used while the vehicle is in motion. There is no automatic adjuster on them. So, depending on whether you have any extremely rural dirt (not even gravel) roads that you like to drift around the corners on, you'll be adjusting and replacing them constantly. That's not personal experience, always obey all traffic laws! . My Cavalier has 84,xxx miles on it, and the shoes have about 40% of their life left. That's mostly highway, but quite a bit of "heavy use"... so realistically you won't have to do a rear brake job more than twice on most cars. Disc brakes are much better at stopping the car, so there is definitely a performance reason to do it, but easier maintenance isn't a reason. I'm not trying to talk you out of it, if you want to do it, do it... but it's not going to be easier than replacing a set of shoes!

[Classicrocjunkie]

yes, there was 1 washer on every stud. If the person doing the machining is very good, you'll only have to use one. My e-brake held on hills..

I had roughly $800-825 into mysetup. Honestly save another $100 and buy the BAER or SSBC kit. Have I had known it was going to be this much, I would have went that route myself.

Have I also had know how much of a PILE J-bodys are, I wouldn't have bought as many as I did.