Wideband Time

[david-b]

Early early next spring I'm taking the car to the dyno and going to get her tuned up and put down some numbers. Then taking to track and putting down some times. So, I'm going to buy a WBO2. I don't need top of the line, but looking at different ones some have computer hookups, complicated wiring and so on. I just want something basically plug and play. Wire up a control somewhere and get the read out right there.

And then what would the right ratio be for n/t? Is it still 14.1 or something? Enlighten me please

[steviek]

14.1 is way too lean. It should be 14.7 at idle. And under load you should be around 11.5-12 since you are NT.
Turbo's must run richer because of detonation.

[SilvrEclipse]

Originally Posted by steviek

14.1 is way too lean. It should be 14.7 at idle. And under load you should be around 11.5-12 since you are NT.
Turbo's must run richer because of detonation.

14.7 is correct at idle, turbo cars run 11.5-12af. That is WAY to rich for nt cars. I think in the low 14's is were you want to be. Might want to search a little just to make sure.

As far as a cheap WBo2 I have heard alot of good things about JAW. Depending on how you set it up you could have it done for around $100.
http://www.14point7.com/JAW/JAW.htm

[david-b]

Wait so you can just buy the DIY kit and that's basically it then? Damn! I may get that. Plus then I can mount the screen wherever, and the unit where ever also.

[gthompson97]

I saw a DIY wideband kit the other day either on tuners or 2gnt, I'll see if I can find it. It was pretty cool, and not too expensive IIRC.

[TalonEclipseMixGsx]

I have the AEM wideband and it was plug and play pretty much. Only thing I had to do was take off the downpipe and have an exhaust shop weld on the o2 flange for it. But other than that, there was no complicated wiring and I had the wires ran and hooked up in less than a half hour.

[steviek]

Originally Posted by SilvrEclipse

14.7 is correct at idle, turbo cars run 11.5-12af. That is WAY to rich for nt cars. I think in the low 14's is were you want to be. Might want to search a little just to make sure.

As far as a cheap WBo2 I have heard alot of good things about JAW. Depending on how you set it up you could have it done for around $100.
http://www.14point7.com/JAW/JAW.htm

*

our target AFR should be around 14.7:1 in vacuum, around 12.5:1 at static, and around 11.5-11.0:1 as you approach your peak boost level. This will achieve the best fuel economy while supporting for lots of airflow. I'd play it safer and run richer if I was you. Personally I think the sweet spot has been about 10.5 on pump 94. This is through a lot of testing and wideband logging so I really wouldn't run 14.1 if I was you.
Or you Silvr. Static is where you would be with no boost pressure.

http://www.angelfire.com/pro2/rst/ai...uning_tips.htm
Written at 2gnt.com<--------

[SilvrEclipse]

Originally Posted by steviek

*

our target AFR should be around 14.7:1 in vacuum, around 12.5:1 at static, and around 11.5-11.0:1 as you approach your peak boost level. This will achieve the best fuel economy while supporting for lots of airflow. I'd play it safer and run richer if I was you. Personally I think the sweet spot has been about 10.5 on pump 94. This is through a lot of testing and wideband logging so I really wouldn't run 14.1 if I was you.
Or you Silvr. Static is where you would be with no boost pressure.

http://www.angelfire.com/pro2/rst/ai...uning_tips.htm
Written at 2gnt.com<--------

Steviek - You are right with what your saying for a BOOSTED car. Dave is not boosted. His car is still naturally aspired. There is no need to run an 11.5AF ratio.

EDIT - Just looked up the a/f ratio for a NA car. 12.8-13 is the target a/f