1999 Saturn SL2 Cranks but Won't Start

[davmaj2]

My 1999 Saturn SL2 was running perfect until this morning.
I started it up and the Service Engine Light came on and it idled terrible.
I shut it off and then restarted, the Service Engine Soon Light was still on but it was idling fine.

If figured the light would just go out so I started driving.
When I pressed the accelerator it felt like the transmission was slipping.
So I stopped, shut it off again and restarted.
The Service Engine Soon light was still on but it was idling fine and the transmission shifted fine.

I made it to where I was going and shut it off.
When I got back in, I started it, the Service Engine Soon Light was off but it was idling horrible and then just died.

Here is a list of things it will not do now:
Cranks fine but will not start.
No door chime.
Dome light doesn't work.
Radio doesn't work.
Cigaratte lighter doesn't work.
Fuel Pump doesn't come on.
Will not build pressure in the fuel rail.

I have checked every fuse under the hood and under the dash, but every one is fine.
I tried 4 different code readers but none of them worked.
It seems like the OBD2 port isn't working.
I was told it was the Computer, so I went to the junk yard and bought another that I new was good, put it in and still have the same problem.
Someone please help.

[sickcallawayc12]

When was the last time a tune-up was done? Replaced the ECTS yet? Check the wiring? It sounds like the mechanic is taking a shotgun approach to fixing your probelm. You'd be surprised how many Saturn owners post here and are told they need to "replace the computer" when its usually an IAC valve sticking or something.

[davmaj2]

Tune up was done by my local Saturn dealership September 20, 2007.
What is the ECTS?

[sickcallawayc12]

Electronic Cooling Temp Sensor- Original unit was made of nylon and is doomed to failure sooner or later. Its been known to cause idling problems and cooling/temp problems. $20 part (made out of a more sturdy brass) from www.saturnparts.net and takes 5 mintues to replace with a six point deep well socket wrench. If you service at the dealer then I would think this has been done by now, but I guess you never know.

3 things are needed to start a vehicle: timing, spark, and fuel. See if you can get the fuel pump tested to ensure it does or doesn't work. What do you mean the port doesn't work? It doesn't give codes? Do you have a Service Engine Soon light or a Service with a wrench light? An Autozone or similar place usually reads the former for free.

[Mork]

In the fuse panel by the passenger floor, check the 10amp fuse for the fuel pump with a test light. If you do not get any power at this fuse, pull the fuel pump relay (next to the fuse) from its socket and switch it out with the relay right next to it.

I had the same problem with the same car!

Originally Posted by sickcallawayc12

Electronic Cooling Temp Sensor- Original unit was made of nylon and is doomed to failure sooner or later. Its been known to cause idling problems and cooling/temp problems. $20 part (made out of a more sturdy brass) from www.saturnparts.net and takes 5 mintues to replace with a six point deep well socket wrench. If you service at the dealer then I would think this has been done by now, but I guess you never know.

3 things are needed to start a vehicle: timing, spark, and fuel. See if you can get the fuel pump tested to ensure it does or doesn't work. What do you mean the port doesn't work? It doesn't give codes? Do you have a Service Engine Soon light or a Service with a wrench light? An Autozone or similar place usually reads the former for free.

[saturnhell123]

that electronic temp sensor wont make it stop running i just did that in my saturn 2 days ago i drove it that way for 6 months check that relay the temp sensor will just tell the computer that the motor is cold and make it dump more fuel to warm it up faster and it effects the timing a tiny bit but the car wont stop running.

[manvantar]

I had the same problem but fixed it. It turned out a fuse box problem. On the driver side of the center console next to the gas pedal pull out the panel so you can get around the back of the fuse box. I jiggled a few wires and all of a sudden bingo! The chimes, dome light, radio & everything came back on. I isolated it from three red wires and the the top red wire coming out the back of the fuse box. Only problem was I had to jerry rig power to my fule pump But I'm going to try what our friend suggested here (moving the wire over one slot). Thanks for sharing...

[RC1488]

Originally Posted by sickcallawayc12

Electronic Cooling Temp Sensor- Original unit was made of nylon and is doomed to failure sooner or later. Its been known to cause idling problems and cooling/temp problems. $20 part (made out of a more sturdy brass) from www.saturnparts.net and takes 5 mintues to replace with a six point deep well socket wrench. If you service at the dealer then I would think this has been done by now, but I guess you never know.

3 things are needed to start a vehicle: timing, spark, and fuel. See if you can get the fuel pump tested to ensure it does or doesn't work. What do you mean the port doesn't work? It doesn't give codes? Do you have a Service Engine Soon light or a Service with a wrench light? An Autozone or similar place usually reads the former for free.

the ECTS is the Engine Coolant Temperture sensor. its a two wire resistor (at least for your car) that is vital to the PCM's decisions of mixture into the cylinders. it was made of resin before 2001 which would be eatin through by the coolant and will send false voltages to the PCM. it has also been known to cuase shifting issues, temp guage issues, and many other problems. the new ones are brass and like said above, takes about 5 min to replace with a 14mm deep dish socket

[SaturnNT]

Problem fixed?

I seem to meet the same one.