Civic Dieing

[KoDKingVegeta]

I think the motor in my Civic is finaly dieing. Whenever I get into first and go, it starts to bog out and act like it wants to stall. Then once I get going and I get on it, it starts doing it again. Bogging out and trying to stall.

I replaced my timing belt only 9,000 miles ago, I replaced the Main Fuel Relay about the same time. Its got good spark plugs, wires, dizzy, cap. I really dont no what the other problem is. Other then it dieing.

[turtlecrxsi]

Got any codes?

Check your vacuum hoses for leaks and timing...

[KoDKingVegeta]

Not sure if I have any codes, I no where to check. But I don't no how many blinking lights shows a code or what not. All my hose's are hooked up right, nothing is loose. Iv already went over the motor to try to see if a wire or anything was loose. But theres nothing. My O2 senoser does need replaced, but it shouldnt be causing this much problems. My O2 sensor went bad once before and never did this much.

[turtlecrxsi]

O2 sensor won't cause that. I fixed my single blink (o2) problem after finally deciding on "tucking" the wires on my crx and then the light came back again. I replaced the sensor again but I think the insulated wire broke inside the harness further up. Nevertheless, the car ran the same... ok. Check your timing at the dizzy.

For codes look at the FAQ thread and you'll find the list of what they mean.

One thing I miss about my crx was that it was so easy to work on...

[Christ]

have your injectors tested, or just replace them, they do die eventually... test the continuity at the resistor box as well.

umm.. that's all I can think of for now, other than testing at the pins in the ECU for each injector, all the way up to the injectors themselves, to check for bad wiring. listen around for bad gaskets on the intake side, anything like that. and do a compression check, for worn rings/valve seals (put oil in the cylinders for valve seals)

[KoDKingVegeta]

Another thing I forgot to mention, my motor is eatting oil like no tomorrow. I filled my oil up on sunday. And now Im almost out (I have an oil pressure gauge when its filled it reads around 60-80, now its down to 0). Thats also why I think my motor is dieing (Im not leaking any oil, there are no oil spots on my driveway, I do get quit abit of smoke out of my exhaust, so I no its eatting it) Or my oil pump is going, Im really at a lost for other problems other then what I have noticed and mentioned about what my car is doing.

[Christ]

that means you need to replace the rings, and/or valve seals.. that's the whole reason I told you to do a compression check, but you've no need for that now. get a master rebuild kit, rebuild the engine, and you're good to go again... rebuilding only takes a day, pulling and putting back should only take a day, so you can do it in a weekend, if everything goes right, but plan on borrowing a car for at least a week.

[KoDKingVegeta]

How much does a master rebuild kit cost?

[Christ]

anywhere from $130 to $300, depending on where you get it, and what you get with it... some will give you new pistons and wrist pins, etc.. some will only give you the rings and seals, and all the stuff that's ACTUALLY necessary.. you don't need to replace your pistons when you rebuild an engine.

[KoDKingVegeta]

Iv decided that I will do my motor swap now. Instead of rebuilding. So Im looking to sell the motor and tranny.

[Christ]

good luck w/ the swap and selling the motor/tranny

[KoDKingVegeta]

Thanks for the info. You have been real helpful.

[Christ]

's kinda what we're here for bro :P

[KoDKingVegeta]

Ya, I will let whoever buys it worry about a rebuild. If no one buys it, its going to the junk yard. Lol

[Christ]

Depending on what kind of engine you have, that's dying, figure out what parts are best to use on the new engine.. like the Si has higher oil pressure than the rest of the models did.. so it would be good to keep that oil pump, and replace it w/ the one from the new engine, so it's still sale-able... check around, find out what kind of stuff you should keep, and what stuff you should let go, since all of the parts from one engine will fit another, with the exception of crank & rods & pistons from D15 - D16... you'd need to align-bore a D15 to accept a D16 crank.. Which is fun to do, if you like the sleeper thing... since the D16 crank is fatter, it can handle more torque lol. D15 block stamp says it's a 1.5 liter, and noone will know you have B18 pistons on a D16 crank w/ sealed rings.. oh shit.. I'm giving away my secrets now. '

Watch out, if I tell you too much, I may have to kill you :P j/k
I don't really mind giving away some of my lil pieces of knowledge, I sure get enough that I didn't know from here and other places.