2000 Montana Noise coming from Front Drivers side

[kcarlen]

I know this is a stupid question, but I am asking to see if anyone has had this as a "common" problem on their van.

The noise is a whirring type sound, (Almost like a ticking sound, that increases in frequency) seems to be coming from the drivers side front.

The noise STOPs when the van is stopped, with the engine running.
The noise does not increase in frequency or level when you rev the engine in park.
The noise increases in frequency and sound level as you go faster in drive.
If you switch out of DRIVE and into NEUTRAL when you hear the noise, the noise does not disappear....

I suspect one of the CV joints, or a wheel bearing....I just don't know what I should be looking for. The CV boots look brand new.... ( I have owned it for over 3 years now with no problems)

I am just dreading that the transmission has something to do with it......I checked the auto-trans coolant level, all good.

Any advice?

I am a home-mechanic so I can do most of the work myself, I am just looking for any advice with people that own the same sort of vehicle...

[scherp]

My front wheel bearing started making noise about 45 mph. if you drive about 45 and make quick little turns right and left and noise should go away, especially turning to the left. if does, most likely the front driver side wheel bearing. My experience (2001) is that the other side will go out very soon too. Mine went between 80-90000. Not hard to do. I bought my new assembly from Napa and the axial nut needed to be torque to 180 pds and is a 33 mm nut. Good luck.

[pvisser]

I vote for a front wheel bearing. Been there done that etc, I replaced the passenger side a year ago, drivers is still rolling strong. You will probably find your ABS will start acting up soon to, the sensor is part of the bearing.

[1999montana]

Originally Posted by kcarlen

...If you switch out of DRIVE and into NEUTRAL when you hear the noise, the noise does not disappear...I suspect ...a wheel bearing...

If it makes a sound like you are driving on a roughly laid road surface, (like someone drove a catepillar tractor over it leaving ruts behind) then I would say you have a bad hub bearing.

Mine caught me off guard about a year and a half ago...no tools and no way to fix it. Had to take it into a shop ($400.00+ later) and then on my way again.

The bearing is about $200.00 and is relatively painless to remove except that you have to remove the wheel assembly, caliper / bracket assembly, rotor, and the two bolts that attach the knuckle to the shock strut, I believe). Then the axle nut from the axle shaft in order to pull the old bearing out through the back of the knuckle assembly. Three bolts hold the bearing onto the knuckle from the rear. The new bearing comes with the ABS sensor (and three new attaching bolts as a kit).

On a scale of 1 to 10, I'd call it about a 5 or 6; - you need patience and must move slowly, otherwise you could separate the CV joints and then you're in a real mess.

[kcarlen]

Thanks for the replies people.

I replaced the Drivers side 3 weeks ago, (Just after posting) with no responses....
Just last week the Passenger side went. I couldn't believe that the bearings reliablilty is THAT ACCURATE! That was within 2 weeks of replacement, around 1000k! Those bearing engineers must have it down to a science.

I took everyone's advice to only replace the bearing that was bad, and not do both.....but so it turns out you might as well replace both at the same time....because it will go...it is just a matter of time.

I bought a pair of new ones off EBAY for $125 USD.

They were new, but I am now having a weird problem of the ABS light coming on every once in a while......have checked the connectors for tightness, etc, but they seem OK. I don't have an ABS scanner, just an OBDII computer scanner....and I would like to have it scanned to see where the bad sensor is......so that I can swap it out again....

I have it down to a science now...I can replace both in about 1.5 hours.

BTW, I used anti-sieze on everything putting it back together, because the bolts were so friggin tight that I had to cut one of the bolts OFF. They are made of some weird steel with a coating of some sort...they round really easily if you aren't on them just perfect with the 13mm socket.

BTW2: I have a 2K Montana, and the CV AXLE NUT is 33mm. A 34mm Socket works. CV Axle Nut Torque for anyone that needs it, 200 ft/lbs.

[sparky65]

On the 33mm nut what brand / type of socket did you use. I just tried to use my craftsman 32mm but it was too short. I cant imagine the 33mm would be that much longer and a deep socket seems too weak for that much torque.