3.4 l gm serpentine belt

[stregisfalls]

After examining all the photos and prints in the Haynes book, the serpentine belt arrangement could not be found. Chilton's "online" isn't too much better. The belt tensioner on chilton's site is in the wrong position and two idlers weren't there at all. I took the diagram on my vehicle and drew a pix of it for you who may need it.

[maxwedge]

How did you make out with the plug wires?

[stregisfalls]

I checked with the dealer and he said to go with what's stamped into the manifold.2-4-6 near to the coil pack, 1-3-5 radiator side. I did all that and it turns over but won't start. I wonder if I need to bleed the fuel rail?

[maxwedge]

Check for pressure at the rail first, key on off a few times to prime also.

[stregisfalls]

my thinking is that the fuel rail is air bound. I did the on off a few times and still nothing. I'm going to apply a vacuum externally to the fuel regulator on the rail. perhaps I can get it to open to prime the fuel rail. once fuel is in there when you start the engine the fuel pump turns on pressurizing whats already in there and so it starts or supposed to. does this makes sense?

[maxwedge]

I'd spray carb cleaner into the intake see if it runs, I've never had to do what you are suggesting, try and get a FP gage on the rail and see what you have.

[stregisfalls]

I needed to try something. I swapped the plug wires to what chilron's and haynes said - 1-3-5 near the coil pack and 2-4-6 near the radiator. The engine started but ran rough. I guy I know runs a repair place so he put on the OBD and it said engine misfire. So I went looking again. I swapped leads at the coil pack on 1-5 and the engine ran fine - very smooth. My Check Engine Soon light went out and stayed out. My engine temperature is constant right where it should be. I think the problem is solved. Thank for your help.

[maxwedge]

So the Autozone diagram was correct?

[stregisfalls]

yup! the dealer's tech was all wrong! I got another problem. Same symptoms as before. The temperature would skyrocket and the recovery tank would be full of coolant. The heater core would blow cold air. After reading a number of posts, they said a faulty head gasket. Soooooooo, I'll be tearing down the engine I just rebuilt for replacing the head gaskets. Anything I should know before/during the teardown?

[maxwedge]

Slow down here, air in the cooling system as well as a bad thermostat can both cause this. See if the hoses become pressurized shortly after a cold start, that is a sure sign of a head gasket problem.

[stregisfalls]

then its the head gasket. when it starts and runs its ok. when a load is put on the engine, the temperature goes up, way up, heater blows cold air. heater bypass is hot, both radiator hoses are hot and coolant goes into the recovery tank. loosening the bleeders gives steam no liquid. my next worry is I used loctite red. I hope the bolts loosen. I don't want to go snapping off bolts in the block.

[maxwedge]

Loctite will never hold the bolts that tite, don't worry, I'd still do a pressure test on the coloing system to confirm this, just don't jump into a major job, head gaskets are not common unless the engine overheated badly at one time.

[stregisfalls]

but all I've read says that when the coolant dumps into the recovery tank, a blown head gasket will cause the coolant to flash into a vapor and go directly backwards into the cooling system overpressurizing the system and opens the radiator cap and coolant blows into the recovery tank. the compression from the piston is acting like a pump so if there's a gap in the gasket from the cylinder to the water jacket it'll blow back into the coolant system.

[maxwedge]

That is about right assuming the gasket is bad where compression can reach it. Again to be sure do a cooling pressure test, plus they make kits to check for combustion gases in the coolant, a very good test.

[stregisfalls]

I took the car to a mech who says he can do the dissolved gases test. I called him and told him to bring the car back on the flatbed so I can start ripping into it again. Now, at least I know how to get at the guts of the car. I'm just hoping I can get to the crossover pipe to disconnect it so I can fold back the exhaust manifolds and get the heads off.