What it's the best clutch for my car

[mariom1500]

Hello,
I buy a Stealth 91 VR4 tree moths ago and I need change my Clutch, I run in ilegal street racing and I need you recomendation about what it the best clutch kit for my car.
Thanks,
Mario

[AutostradaVR4]

Originally Posted by mariom1500

Hello,
I buy a Stealth 91 VR4 tree moths ago and I need change my Clutch, I run in ilegal street racing and I need you recomendation about what it the best clutch kit for my car.
Thanks,
Mario

no such thing as a Stealth VR-4...you mean to say Stealth TT.

If your going to be at stock hp levels and mainly street driving, i would just go with OEM.

what mods do you have?

welcome to AF and 3/S

[mariom1500]

Originally Posted by BlinkRA182

no such thing as a Stealth VR-4...you mean to say Stealth TT.

If your going to be at stock hp levels and mainly street driving, i would just go with OEM.

what mods do you have?

welcome to AF and 3/S

You are right mi car is R/T twin turbo AWD, and normaly I drive my car in the city street and some racing street. And I whant to modify in the future the hp so I need to start to buy a good clutch.
Thank's.

[AutostradaVR4]

for basic power upgrade (BPU), these should be a pretty good match...

RPS Sport
http://www.dynamicracing.com/custome...cat=115&page=1

Stage II, III, or III+
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_vi...?idProduct=566

just a few...there's lots more, so shop around.

just remember...upgrading the clutch will have a massive effect on day to day driving and will be a nightmare is traffic, especially if you dont get a good match for your power.

[mariom1500]

Originally Posted by BlinkRA182

for basic power upgrade (BPU), these should be a pretty good match...

RPS Sport
http://www.dynamicracing.com/custome...cat=115&page=1

Stage II, III, or III+
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_vi...?idProduct=566

just a few...there's lots more, so shop around.

just remember...upgrading the clutch will have a massive effect on day to day driving and will be a nightmare is traffic, especially if you dont get a good match for your power.

Ok, I understand I believe I whant to buy the kit stage III and waith the results.
Best Regards.
Mario

[vectorspecialist]

mentioning that u run illeagle strret racing is probably not the smartest thing u can say. instead just say u race. we'll know what ur talking about. but welcome to af and the "brotherhood" that is the 3S owners

also oem would b best if u drive in the city a lot. plan ur upgrades...then see which clutch would fit best

[ZRYDERVR4]

Originally Posted by mariom1500

Ok, I understand I believe I whant to buy the kit stage III and waith the results.
Best Regards.
Mario

WHAT a stage 3 right off the bat with no mods.... i say you get something cheaper so that you have money to mod the car. i mean getting a stage 3 clutch with no mods is like having halo 3 with no xbox 360 which is where i'm at i went and i bought halo 3, i was like the 10 person in the store to get it when it first came out and i was planing on getting a xbox with my next paycheck after that but i quit.... well anyways i don't see a need to get a stage 3 clutch with nod mods. its going to suck for your left foot and it will suck even more when you think about it because there in no reason to have one.
i say you get an oem clutch put some mods under the hood first. i mean what the 3/s clutch can handle some decent power right?

[vectorspecialist]

u know that question mark makes me wonder how much power does an oem clutch take. the first one i wanted to get after mine goes(i give it a month) was capable of taking up to 425hp. dont know what stage that is. but if i keep my baby i wanna get around 400hp(at the ground) out of it.

[jason_bet]

i have kinda a differant perspective.. I Have a RPS max clutch with a light weight flywheel and most people hate that kinda set up cause is a pain in the ass driving in trafic.. however I really don't mind.. I mean you have to give it more gas when your taking off the line even if your not trying to get on it. just cause the RPM's fall so quickly

[AutostradaVR4]

sometimes i think i may have an AM clutch on mine and dont know it...the guy i bought it from said he replaced the clutch, so i just assumed OEM, but it's pretty grippy...hmmm

[2old]

I remember there used to be a chart somewhere... Anyways I think stage 1 increases clamping force by roughly 20% which means that the OEM one should be about 360ish ft-lbs since the torque it can take is directly proportional to the clamping for for the same material (IE: stage 1)...

Since the car made roughly 300ish HP stock 360/300 = 1.2 so roughly to keep the same ratio as OEM at 425HP at flywheel you only need Stage II at that point.

If you are trying that at the wheels, maybe stage 3, but I am not a big fan of puck style disks and would think about stage3+ (although that is really pricey), but really unless you plan to drop the clutch while reving the engine you can get by with Stage 2 because torque the clutch can handle is still above the torque coming out of the engine.

Just remember... The clutches are not rated for HorsePower but torque and since peak HP in our cars is around 6500rpm HP at flywheel is roughly equal to the torque... That additional holding power is used to hold the driveline shock which is driver dependent.

Edit: I probably just confused you more... Nix that... Just figure out how much torque at flywheel you have and look for the clutch that holds 60+ ft-lbs more then that and you are good.

[jason_bet]

Originally Posted by 2old

I remember there used to be a chart somewhere... Anyways I think stage 1 increases clamping force by roughly 20% which means that the OEM one should be about 360ish ft-lbs since the torque it can take is directly proportional to the clamping for for the same material (IE: stage 1)...

Since the car made roughly 300ish HP stock 360/300 = 1.2 so roughly to keep the same ratio as OEM at 425HP at flywheel you only need Stage II at that point.

If you are trying that at the wheels, maybe stage 3, but I am not a big fan of puck style disks and would think about stage3+ (although that is really pricey), but really unless you plan to drop the clutch while reving the engine you can get by with Stage 2 because torque the clutch can handle is still above the torque coming out of the engine.

Just remember... The clutches are not rated for HorsePower but torque and since peak HP in our cars is around 6500rpm HP at flywheel is roughly equal to the torque... That additional holding power is used to hold the driveline shock which is driver dependent.

Edit: I probably just confused you more... Nix that... Just figure out how much torque at flywheel you have and look for the clutch that holds 60+ ft-lbs more then that and you are good.

I like how you broke that down..

[vectorspecialist]

the only reason i want 425ish at the ground is so i can play with some vettes...and run a guy with his viper that always pesters me. i figure shave some weight and add a lil power and the viper wont b a problem. and i know i can keep up with most vettes, just not the new ones(that's wat i wanna keep up with).

but yea good way to look at what kinda clutch to get. it was confusing(i dont know much about clutch and stuff) but after reading a few times it made sense. i guess

[AutostradaVR4]

whew...im just gonna PM 2old with all my questions from now on lol.

[mariom1500]

Originally Posted by BlinkRA182

whew...im just gonna PM 2old with all my questions from now on lol.

Thank you every body for your comments and sorry my english I already order a 450HP Stage 3 Copper Ceramic 6-Puck Disc, Stage 3 Pressure Plate ,Heavy-Duty Release Bearing, Flywheels Fidanza Ultra light 10.5 LBs.

Only I need to order the syncro kit and install too because a have a problems when I put second gear.
Any recomendation abouth this
Best Regards.