How to replace a 2g spyder convertible top

[nova1313]

You need:
-Get a top preferably canvas. I got mine 2 years ago from M&T Manufacturing (mtmfg.com). I grabbed the hartz stayfast canvas and side cables.
- A friend (despite what the manual they give you says)
- 3/8 inch staples + staple gun
- Bottle of adhesive (the brush on stuff!)
- A spyder
- About 8-9 hours free if you are quick.
- Torx screw drivers
- Metric ratchet/wrench set

I assume you can work the tools...

Remember to MARK every part you remove. If your new top doesn't have a mark on it where the back tack strip goes you need to make sure to make this marking and transfer it to the new top or you are screwed. You might as well take it to a professional installer at that point. Test fit everything before you make any holes! The replacement top I got was exactly like the mitsu top. You may not be so lucky. Mine also came with instructions but they didn't seem spyder specific.

Roll down your windows, pull your fuse for interior lights and let the doors hang open. We pulled the front seats out and it made it much easier. It's 4 bolts on each seat. We also pulled off the back side panels. Remove the back seats by two pops for the lower part then 2 bolts on the bottom of the back. Remove the sides by removing all 4 seatbelt lower bolts, then speaker covers. There are 4 screws on each back side panel. Twist the seatbelts through the openings as you remove.

Cover anything you don't want to get dirty or glue on. My interior was molded so my friends and I ripped up the carpet before starting but no need to do this! We also removed the convertible top motors for repair which made it easier to put up and down as we worked. It's really optional as you can put in manual mode but it does make it easier.

Start by removing the headliner, 2 screws at the front, a few elastic straps with screws on the sides. 4 snaps in the back of the headliner. The front is fastened by velcro also. I used a china marker (pencil/crayon thing) to mark where the full length snap strips on the 2,3,4 bows went. This way I could realign it later.

Open the top and unscrew the front retainer on the number 1 bow (above the windshield). It's about 8-9 screws. Remove this and then pull up the top at the front. It's glued down. Remove the two connectors for the rear window deicer. When pulling up the top you will see mesh that runs the full length of the top about 4 inches wide on each side. We don't want to remove this! The next 3 bows have flaps gluing them to the bows. Pull these off slowly! We don't want to destroy the top quite yet... No try to pull up the top from the front. You will see the side tension wires showing and you can't pull up. Find where they start and dig the tar coating out of their holes. Pull these straight up and out (they just push in) Now flap the top back till you can't anymore. Slice the sides behind the back windows (careful not to cut webbing on the inside anywhere! You need to get in here to remove some pops later. Remove the weather stripping for the back windows now (the curved part). Through the cut you made on each side you should be able to see 3 of the 4 pops where they come through on each side. Mark the weather stripping as you remove it which side is which and what is up and down. The top is glued/taped in these groves pull it out. Go inside the car and notice the final tack strip is screwed in with torx on each side. It's a t25 for 2 bolts on each side of this bow. Remove them and label them. Pop the trunk, remove the rear black cover strip and the two side pieces of trip (they pop up once the back is out). Now the tack strip you removed earlier you can very CAREFULLY navigate it out by some toying around. It only comes up about an inch more... The rubber that holds it down is your drain. You do not under any circumstance wish to rip that. The instructions I had said you can remove it from inside the trunk and some clips in the car. I did not have to do this. If you are scared then take it out to be safe, just remember how to put it back later. You will see the back of the top is stapled to this bar. Pull those staples and remove the top. Under the stapled top was the stapled drain. I did not remove it. I marked edges of the top and where they were on the frame as I went. Now you should have some flaps left on either side. Remove the 2 pops in each side. It was easiest to get to them from behind the top motors with the top in the up position. Your top is now off. Don't throw it out, we need it!

Go eat dinner. It's going to be a long battle to get it back on.

Lay the old top over the new one. If it's dirty put plastic in between. You need to put holes in the new top for the side flaps. 2 for each side. You could put the side weather stripping holes in now but I waited to get a better fit. With the top off the bar it's no longer stretched (but it's still stretched more so then a new top..) and I was afraid the new top holes would be in a different place... Once holes are transfered you can get rid of the old top.

Clean all residue off bars where top was glued to. I used a scraper and paint thiner. I then cleaned the bars with water and soap and dried when done.

Alight the top on the back tack strip. My top was marked where the top of the tack strip went, you may not be so lucky. If you marked it like I mentioned in the beginning you are good. If not have fun! I probably would have given up had I not saved that mark. Everything on the top is based off this mark being right. I lined up the mark around the bar and put a staple in the center then on each side. I then stretched it to make sure there were no wrinkles and put a staple every inch on the rear tack strip. Fit the tack strip back inside the car with some trickery and replace the torx screws for that bar. Tap in any staples in the existing bows so they don't ruin the new top. You may want to pad them a bit with some fabric tape. Stretch the top to the front.

Take a deep breath.. This next part is the second hardest part of the whole top install. It took me 3 times to get it right. Thank god I was short to begin with.. The book I had said the top should stretch a bit after you put it on, 1-2 inches. In my experience the canvas top went about .5 inches. I advise you test try closing the top and hold the fabric in place by hand. I put the side tension cables back through at this point and pressed their holders in. I then put in 3 screws and the front test strip on and tried to close it. It took me 3 times till I could. I found if it closed on it's own within .5 inches I could pull it the rest of the way. I didn't want to hurt the frame by pulling nor rip the fabric. If you don't get it right and you are just a bit too far away the front of the top gives you about an inch of fabric play. If you put holes in with the screws you can still let it out an inch without those holes effecting anything. Once you know you have it right unscrew it, glue the front down (side little flaps fold over!), and then rescrew the front retrainer. Close the top! Almost done!

The top should be tight now in the center. Get inside and put those 4 pops into each motor mount panel. You put the holes for these in when you laid the old top over the new one. Then attach the side flaps in the arched weather stripping channel and make the holes for the push clips now (if you didn't before). You want to get the seam of the top on the fold line where it goes into the channel. It just looks nice this way. Push the weather stripping back in place (you labeled it right? We didn't. Doh!). The top should be pretty tight now. Get inside and pull the little flaps and glue them to each bow. 2 go from the front to the back. One goes from the back to the front (again you mark this when you take them off). The nice thing about the glue is if you mess up you can pull it off and redo it.

Time to trim, you may have a bit extra on the front edge of the top, the fastening fabric on each bow and on the side arced parts. Trim this off very very carefully. You do not want to cut your new top! (it defeats the purpose.)

Replace the trunk and side window trim. Close the top. Close the windows. Take it outside. I let mine sit in the rain. My car had molded before and thats why I had to gut my interior during this process. I figured if it rained and it leaked now no big deal, fix where it leaks (if anything) before you seal it all up. this way you can see if it leaks down in by your motors and side windows.

After you are sure it's sealed (remember it's glued so you can always redo it, just have patience) replace the headliner, replace the side backs, replace the seatbelts (and torque appropriately!), replace the back seats.

Drive it!

Pat yourself on the back and buy your friend something nice for helping. You just saved yourself a ton of money. You didn't even have to switch to gieco!

[gthompson97]

Pictures?

[nova1313]

I need to upload them from my camera. Perhaps tomorrow. I have some for most of the steps.

[gthompson97]

Awesome. Great addition to the tech articles.

[vanilla gorilla]

Whoa. Very in depth and thorough. I'm sure this will be very helpful to someone swappin tops. I'm glad mine still has a few good years left, cause I dread to have to change that bitch...

[Blackcrow64]

Very nice... Once you get the pictures up I'll move it to the Tech Articles section.