my Voyager has serious problems and this van is my families only vehicle

[dragon_kin01]

Heres the run down. Got Plymouth Grand Voyager 3.3L OHV FWD van with 92,000 on it. It's been sitting for 6-7 years and I finally got it running, but it runs like crap. Pull codes via self-diag. check engine light. Replaced all the components throwing codes, but still runs crappy. It sounds like a popping coming from the intake hose to the throttle body that happens randomly. It sometimes red-line in Park, and sometimes it bogs down to the point of stalling out. Very annoying since I cant get it up passed 25 and on random occasions it work perfectly. I pulled codes one last time and a 26 code comes up.

Question = How do I fix the code 26 and reset the ECM? And if anyone knows what the problem is with the pooping and stalling, by all means tell me.

PS - I have a Maint. Req. light on, how do I reset it and what does it mean?

[RIP]

On a 1990 van code 26 is a fuel injector circuit problem. Read through the narrative for that code and note#4 here: http://www.allpar.com/fix/80s-codes.html Could be your popping noise. I think your maint light indicates scheduled maintenance is due. Not sure how to reset it.

EDIT - found this:http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...+light+caravan Read last two posts.

[cbwilsha]

PS - I have a Maint. Req. light on, how do I reset it and what does it mean?[/quote]

I had a 1987 Voyager and the Maintenance Required light came on indicating Emissions Service needed--specifically, the EGR valve. They were notorious in those days for sticking and causing rough idle and running. So that may be part of your problem. I believe that turning off the light required getting up behind the gauge cluster and activating a spring return slide switch mounted on the rear of the cluster. It's been 20 years so I'm not absolutely sure about any of this. Good luck!

C.B.

[dragon_kin01]

thanks for the info but....

the code 26 has disappeared this morning (i didne do anything with any injector) and I wouldn't have the slight clue where to find the EGR valve. My haynes/clitons says it on the intake fleum on the right side and I've had a coulpe of ASE master techs tell me it under the intake manifold.

[cbwilsha]

I'm more convinced than ever that you have a stuck EGR valve and I'm sorry I can't be of more help. I remember working on mine once but don't remember exactly where it was. I had a Factory Service Manual at the time and it led me right to it. I thought sure a repair manual would tell you or show you exactly since the Maintenance Required light would definitely be coming on for everyone. As I recall, I think it came on at around 15,000 miles for the EGR.

C.B.

[triplethreattt]

what year is your van?

The EGR valve is very easy to replace (it's in a tight spot, but not hard at all for a DIY'er.)

I have a 98, and I replaced mine myself. Took me all of 20 minutes in and out.

[cbwilsha]

His profile indicates a 1990 Grand Voyager.

C.B.

[dragon_kin01]

its a 90 grand voyger SE 3.3. i had a 92 grand caravan with a 3.3 and couldnt find the EGR valve on that 1 either.

[capoeta]

I replaced the EGR on my '95 3.3 caravan a couple of years back.

looking at the van from front of car, the egr is behind the intake plenum (driver's side). there is an EGR tube going from the exhaust to the EGR. There are two bolts holding the EGR tube.. the bolts are extracted downward.

there is an electrical connector going to the egr valve.. I believe there is also vacum line going to it...

follow throttle body to the back of plenum and the EGR valve is the first assembly you will run into...

before I replaced the egr, it would not idle properly, would backfire and the engine felt as if it were 'choked'.

I hope this helps.. if you still have question let me know i'll try to take pic.

cap

[dragon_kin01]

Hideho. thats seems to be logical ill take some pics of the motor if i cant find it and see if AnYONE can locate it with me.

[dragon_kin01]

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...1-357bbe113303
This is my motor I'm working with. I've photoshoped the compenet that I belive the EGR valve is.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...1-357bbe113303
This is it closer.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...1-357bbe113303
Now this is confusing. This is a random 2 prong connector next to the Idle air control valve and the TPS. This connector does reach to what I think is the EGR valve, but i don't see a connector point.
This is the EGR valve Autozone has for my van.

[slantsixness]

Not to be the bearer of bad news, but the EGR may not be the problem at all.
5 or 6 times now, I've seen the 3.3, 3.0 and 3.8L motors cough and choke, run rough, or the idle surge for no apparent reasons. and the ECM will throw stupid codes, sending you in a whirlwind of replacement parts..... that never really fixes them.

Try this:
Check your fuel pressure, or bite the bullet and replace the failing fuel pump. Either way, the regulator (built in toi the pump assembly) is probably shot.

Replace the EGR if you want to, but it wont really effect how the van runs as you say it does...

And don't buy the cheap pump from discount parts stores, buy a bosch assembly if you can find it... worth the extra $20 for the right part.

[Bernard Feltzer]

Most 1990 Plymouth mini vans 3.3 came without an egr, that was the intro year for the 3.3 in that vehicle.
The maintanace light comes on every 60,000 miles, and can only be reset through the main ECM.
Most coughing and sputtering is caused by a clogged Cat Converter, they get clogged around 100,000 miles.

There isn't much to go wrong on that model year van with NORMAL care.
I think that was their best mini van ever made.

[pentabob]

Might be a dumb question but you say the van has been sitting for 6-7 years, have you drained and refilled the tank with fresh gas? Maybe your only problem. May want to try before spending money on parts(?)

[fallen4shell]

Originally Posted by pentabob

Might be a dumb question but you say the van has been sitting for 6-7 years, have you drained and refilled the tank with fresh gas? Maybe your only problem. May want to try before spending money on parts(?)

I think that pentabob has a really good point here. The absolute worst thing that can happen to a vehicle is for it to sit for a long time without being driven. Seals harden, ports gum up, oil gels over, injectors clog, if it's not got enough antifreeze in it it can cause the block or head to crack...etc.

How much gas was in the tank while it sat for so long? Did you add any fresh gas? If the tank was full you should probably start by siphoning(or pumping) out as much as you can and then I would fill it up with higher octane (premium) to try and revitalize the remaining gas that's in there and also to help clean out your injectors. You should definitely at least check the fuel filter and while you have it off you can jump the fuel pump relay and pump all the gas in the tank out into some buckets through the open line before you hook the new filter back up. If the tank was partially empty then there is probably rust and crud and water in your tank from the season changes and condensation, plus the hard crusty buildup that forms as the old gas gradually evaporated. If you pump it out into buckets you will be able to see if there is water or crud being pumped through. If so you probably will have to drop the tank and clean it all out so it doesn't ruin your fuel pump.

Also, when a vehicle sits for a long time like that the injectors are really bad to get clogged up. I would reccommend some kind of pressurized fuel pressure cleaning system...which you may have to get done at an auto shop unless you want to buy the equipment required to do it yourself. You might even try some kind of injector or fuel system cleaner that you pour into the tank, but IMHO they won't work near as well.

Let us know what you find out.