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#1
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perferences for epoxies
would anyone like to share their favorite brand of epoxy to use for scratch building kits? i'm debating between tamiya and milliput. haven't tried the milliput but i've had bad experience with tamiya's brand. any comments?
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#2
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i love the tamiya smooth type. i haven't tried milliput or tamiya quick type.
what happened when you used the tamiya stuff?
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Current Project: Fujimi Toyota Altezza RS200 bye bye handles, moldings, rain gutters, license plate holders View some pics of it here http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t72123.html
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#3
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For some reason I could never get the Tamiya Epoxy "quick-type" (the blue and white bar) to mix properly. I cut equal strip of both compound, mix and roll but it doesnt seem to harden enough :o
Another nice stuff for building / filling is called "SSP-HG". It's a mix of superglue + some powder stuff and is used by Japanese modelers. This stuff dries to a nice hard surface and sandable in ~ 20 minutes. A similar result can be achieved by mixing regular superglue + talcum baby powder. Seriously... :alien:
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#4
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20minutes?! You serious? that's pretty good. I'm getting tired of waiting for 12 hours for the tamiya smooth type!
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#5
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Quote:
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#6
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Quote:
BTW the white powder is glass(i suspect) microballoons |
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#7
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Quote:
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#8
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The green/white tamiya epoxy is not the quick type, but the smooth type, and I too could never get it to harden fully. It didn't lend itself well to sanding. The quick type (brown/white) on the other hand sands beautifully and hardens in about 4 hours.
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Recent stuff: ![]() Singapore scale modeling site at http://machinemess.singaporeanimenews.net |
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#9
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i get the same results with the green and white tamiya epoxy. it never seems to harden properly and would crack off when i try to sand and file it. i've heard that milliput is the stuff to use when making custom parts for models. however, there maybe three to four different types and it gets pretty confusing on which one is best (not to mention the price differential between the varieties).
i also heard of super glue and talcom powder as some of you here posted. however, i don't think that it would work very well for custom parts as they would be only workable in small amounts due to the fast curing time. a. |
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#10
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Quote:
I thought I was retarded coz I could never get the white-green stuff to harden. Anyway, been working on some bodykit work (adding some front lip to a S15 front bumper) and for me the formula seems to be: - styrene for the base foundation. Trace out the design that you need (in my case I trace the 2D shape of the original front lip) and cut the styrene out - use polyester putty to build the shape. I use this since it's easier to form and long hardening time - sand / smooth the putty surface - at this point I always get small crevices in the putty surface. To fill them I use the SSP-HG (CA glue + powder) since it always give a nice hard surface. - sand / smooth and prime I imagine if I could get an epoxy putty to work, I could probably forego the polyester and SSP-HG stuff.
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#11
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hmm... i've never tried polyester putty. what brand do you use? thanks in advance!
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#12
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Mori Mori (the yellow one, smells bad) and Tamiya's (the green one). I like Tamiya's better as it seems to goes smoother and less tacky.
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#13
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I've used Tamiya epoxy putty " quick type" it works well. I bought milliput but haven't used it yet.
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#14
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thanks for the responses. i've got so frustrated with the tamiya epoxy on my last kit that i ended up gluing styrene together and ended up carving what i needed out of it. for those of you that use bondo, what texture does it come out as and could you use it as an alternative to polyester putty?
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#15
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Personally, I hate milliput. It's incredibly messy, and if you use water to smooth it, it sort of dissolves and really messes up the surrounding areas. Even worse if it oozes into panel lines.
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Recent stuff: ![]() Singapore scale modeling site at http://machinemess.singaporeanimenews.net |
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