Weird electrical problems

[FIREFOXT]

So, I have an 02 impala. I have had it for about 4 months now and for 3 months I have had some electrical problems.

My passenger side turn signal will stay lit on the dash but there will be now current to the bulb. This usually only happens at night; but on occasion, it happens in the day. It is only the front turn signal that does that. The first time I thought I just needed to replace the bulb. So I did, and it stopped for about a week. Then started right back up. The door chime also comes on sometimes when I flick the turn signal switch. Well, just recently my power windows have started to act up too. Sometimes they work and sometimes they don't. If I can get them to go down; they won't go back up or vice versa. I don't know if it means anything but they seem to act the worst when it is going to rain or feels like it is going to rain. Well, I stopped trying to lower them when it rained for two days straight and they were stuck down. Luckily it was only the back windows. I have a habit of lowering them first.
What could be the problem. I have read other postings with similiar problems.
I have heard such suggestions as the BCM or the Hazzards Switch as far as the turn signal goes.
Is there a common denominator for both problems. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I know a dealer will just screw me over so I don't want to take it to one.

[Iflylow]

The window problem sounds like the window switch. It is a common Impala problem. Next time they get stuck, try using the switch on the window that is stuck, not the switches on the drivers door. The drivers switch box is easy to replace yourself, and costs about $75.
The turn signal might be the hazard switch, but usually when that fails, the turn signals work intermittently or not at all.
BCM's usually cause more than just 2 problems, plus I don't think the BCM has anything to do with the power windows.

[FIREFOXT]

Originally Posted by Iflylow

The window problem sounds like the window switch. It is a common Impala problem. Next time they get stuck, try using the switch on the window that is stuck, not the switches on the drivers door. The drivers switch box is easy to replace yourself, and costs about $75.
The turn signal might be the hazard switch, but usually when that fails, the turn signals work intermittently or not at all.
BCM's usually cause more than just 2 problems, plus I don't think the BCM has anything to do with the power windows.

I considered that when the windows first quit on me. There is no power to the secondary switches either. Do the secondary switches run through the primary switch on the drivers door? I ask this because of the window lock button at the top of the switch cluster. I may just order the OEM switch and replace it anyways. buy-oem-parts.com I have found one here for $85.19 minus shipping and handling.

[Iflylow]

That sounds like a decent price. I found mine locally at a mechanics supply place, so didn't pay shipping. Go to naioa.com, look in the knowledge database, and you will find a writeup I made showing how to change the window switch box.
The lockout prevents the window switches from getting power, so yes, the secondary switches do run through the drivers switch. Send me a PM with you email address and I'll send you the wiring diagram if you want it.

[YJKing95]

Originally Posted by FIREFOXT

So, I have an 02 impala. I have had it for about 4 months now and for 3 months I have had some electrical problems.

My passenger side turn signal will stay lit on the dash but there will be now current to the bulb. This usually only happens at night; but on occasion, it happens in the day. It is only the front turn signal that does that. The first time I thought I just needed to replace the bulb. So I did, and it stopped for about a week. Then started right back up. The door chime also comes on sometimes when I flick the turn signal switch. Well, just recently my power windows have started to act up too. Sometimes they work and sometimes they don't. If I can get them to go down; they won't go back up or vice versa. I don't know if it means anything but they seem to act the worst when it is going to rain or feels like it is going to rain. Well, I stopped trying to lower them when it rained for two days straight and they were stuck down. Luckily it was only the back windows. I have a habit of lowering them first.
What could be the problem. I have read other postings with similiar problems.
I have heard such suggestions as the BCM or the Hazzards Switch as far as the turn signal goes.
Is there a common denominator for both problems. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I know a dealer will just screw me over so I don't want to take it to one.

Door Chime with turn signal, 2 back windows dont work, turn signal stays on on dash, and work when ever they want to.
only way to tell u if u got a bad BCM is to put a TECH2 on it and try to operate everything through the scanner, if they work work thrugh the scanner u got a bad BCM and if the do work then you got 2 seprate problem possibly with either a multifunction swith, or a turn signal/hazzard relay, and a window switch.

[richtazz]

All the circuits you're having problems with are Ignition switch controlled, so I wouldn't rule out a bad ignition switch/harness assembly. This is a very common issue on GM W-Bodies. The contacts get weak and start arcing, causing all sorts of random electrical anomalies.

[YJKing95]

Originally Posted by richtazz

All the circuits you're having problems with are Ignition switch controlled, so I wouldn't rule out a bad ignition switch/harness assembly. This is a very common issue on GM W-Bodies. The contacts get weak and start arcing, causing all sorts of random electrical anomalies.

thats also true but the ignition switch runs on a diffrent circuit compared to the other systems that are connected to the BCM which are having an issue, no starting complaints, but i have seen an issue w/ dash problems with bad igniton switch one time.

[please_pimp_my_rde]

Originally Posted by richtazz

All the circuits you're having problems with are Ignition switch controlled, so I wouldn't rule out a bad ignition switch/harness assembly. This is a very common issue on GM W-Bodies. The contacts get weak and start arcing, causing all sorts of random electrical anomalies.

Arcing???