Spray?

[rickyrickster25]

I have been researching nitrous systems lately, because its a maybe for my car right now, and i was just curious if you guys could answer a couple questions, because im not sure if i believe what im reading.

-Do wet shots really take 10K miles off your motor every time you use them?
-Are dry shots safe to use with stock internals?
-Which is better, Dry or Wet?

I guess my biggest question is, "From experience, can any of you give me some info or suggestions on a nitrous setup for my car?"

Before i even think about it i will have these engine mods:
-AEM V2 Cold Air Intake
-Megan Racing header & full exhaust
-NGK Plugs & 10mm wires - Is 10mm necessary?
-Bored Throttle Body

Just curious if this is a stupid idea, or if it would be a nice add-on.

Feel free to criticise or comment, i am reallly looking for all the info i can get.

Thanks!

[TalonEclipseMixGsx]

The only thing I know about nitrous is that you would need to do fuel upgrades, just as you would if you installed a turbo.

[defiancy]

Originally Posted by rickyrickster25

I have been researching nitrous systems lately, because its a maybe for my car right now, and i was just curious if you guys could answer a couple questions, because im not sure if i believe what im reading.

-Do wet shots really take 10K miles off your motor every time you use them?
-Are dry shots safe to use with stock internals?
-Which is better, Dry or Wet?

I guess my biggest question is, "From experience, can any of you give me some info or suggestions on a nitrous setup for my car?"

Before i even think about it i will have these engine mods:
-AEM V2 Cold Air Intake
-Megan Racing header & full exhaust
-NGK Plugs & 10mm wires - Is 10mm necessary?
-Bored Throttle Body

Just curious if this is a stupid idea, or if it would be a nice add-on.

Feel free to criticise or comment, i am reallly looking for all the info i can get.

Thanks!

This is more dependent on how much nitrous you use each shot. This is determined by the size of the nitrous ports you use. If you are using something moderate like a 50-75 shot, then you are taking significantly less risk than anything above that. Although you will still need to adjust your air/fuel levels so you are running richer than normal.

The difference between dry and wet is this. Dry nitrous is injected into the motor (usually via tapped holes on the intake mani) with no fuel mixed. Meaning the nitrous is mixed with fuel in the actual combustion chamber of the motor. This means that the intake manifold has no fuel flowing through it, IE it is dry.

And wet nitrous system is the exact opposite, fuel is mixed with nitrous before it reaches the combustion chamber. These systems are usually more expensive than dry systems and require more modification. IE you need another fuel source to draw fuel from to mix with the nitrous. As were with a dry shot you would only need to tap your manifold and go.

Wet shots are capable of producing more power than a dry shot, but as far as if they wear the motor faster? Again this is subject all to the way to drive you car and how much nitrous you run.

If you are seriously considering nitrous, than you should not look at anything other than a dry kit. As it would be a waste of money for you, unless you planned on doing MAJOR upgrades to your car later, and intended to keep the nitrous on as well.

[david-b]

There's dry, wet, and direct port.

Dry is the "safest" and "easiest". Also get the least amount of power out of it.
Wet is the middle of the 3. Slightly harder to install, slightly more powerful.
Direct Port is the hardest, most complicated, and the best.

I don't see spraying the car unless it's a full-blown race car. That would be the only time I would spray. Help spool the turbo a little quicker and shoot ya down the 1/4. But that's just me.

Unless you rebuild your motor, don't spray. Not only will it blow your motor eventually, but should something go wrong, it can cause major problems, such as fires, explosions, and stuff like that. Basically, the spray puts terrible strain on all seals, gaskets, and components. Not only that, but if you run rich, you're guaranteed to melt something like pistons or your rings. You really have to know what you're doing to install it and everything has to be perfect.

[rickyrickster25]

Originally Posted by defiancy

This is more dependent on how much nitrous you use each shot. This is determined by the size of the nitrous ports you use. If you are using something moderate like a 50-75 shot, then you are taking significantly less risk than anything above that. Although you will still need to adjust your air/fuel levels so you are running richer than normal.

The difference between dry and wet is this. Dry nitrous is injected into the motor (usually via tapped holes on the intake mani) with no fuel mixed. Meaning the nitrous is mixed with fuel in the actual combustion chamber of the motor. This means that the intake manifold has no fuel flowing through it, IE it is dry.

And wet nitrous system is the exact opposite, fuel is mixed with nitrous before it reaches the combustion chamber. These systems are usually more expensive than dry systems and require more modification. IE you need another fuel source to draw fuel from to mix with the nitrous. As were with a dry shot you would only need to tap your manifold and go.

Wet shots are capable of producing more power than a dry shot, but as far as if they wear the motor faster? Again this is subject all to the way to drive you car and how much nitrous you run.

If you are seriously considering nitrous, than you should not look at anything other than a dry kit. As it would be a waste of money for you, unless you planned on doing MAJOR upgrades to your car later, and intended to keep the nitrous on as well.

Yea, it would only be a 50 or 75 shot.

[rickyrickster25]

Alright, thanks, i would say nevermind then, lol

[SilvrEclipse]

I always thought that wet was better for the motor since it injects fuel along with the nitrous. Start with a 35 shot and move up to a 50, you might could get away with a 75. Anything more your risking blowing a head gasket.

[defiancy]

Originally Posted by rickyrickster25

Alright, thanks, i would say nevermind then, lol

Well don't discount it yet. When you use nitrous responsibly and in moderation, it can be a great way to get power for cheap.

The best course of advice would be to poor over some of the NT Forums and find some info on what you can safely do on the stock bottom end.

I just looked over the 2gNT forums (God they are laid out awfully) and there is general consensus over there that you can run up to about a 50-75 shot ont he stock bottom end.

They also go on to say that the 95's can handle the 75 shot (From a dry kit) because their FPR will adjust the fuel for the nitrous. And that the 96+ NT's need to have a wet nitrous kit. I would imagine a dry kit plus an AFPR would be very similar to a wet kit for 96+. (The AFPR + nitrous would be similar to the setup my friend had with his honda with a dry shot)

No offense but I found this in about 5 seconds of looking on that board, I'm sure that they would be the best source for info on it, being that they specialize in NT's and have a whole forum section dedicated to Turbo/nitrous NT's.

Originally Posted by SilvrEclipse

I always thought that wet was better for the motor since it injects fuel along with the nitrous. Start with a 35 shot and move up to a 50, you might could get away with a 75. Anything more your risking blowing a head gasket.

A wet kit is better for you car, they are just more expensive than a dry kit.


But I also completely agree with what David said. Nitrous will most likely fuck up your motor if you abuse it. If it's something you consider doing, you absolutely have to do it right. You would have to tune your car around the nitrous and not the nitrous around you car.

Nitrous is a quick power adder, but you need to have the know-how to do it right. And if you aren't going to do it right, you are better of not doing it at all.

[vanilla gorilla]

Nitrous is a great power adder. I think you should look into it.

I personally would not go over 50 shot on your stock motor, just to be safe. 75 would probably be ok on a wet shot.

If you go dry you are going to need some way to richen up your mixture. A fuel pressure regulator should work ok. Just turn that bitch way up, better to have too much gas than not enough.

Wet is the way to go IMO. Safe. Cause then you know you got enough gas.

Its all personal preference.

Also heres a good rule of thumb also: For every 50 shot....Your going to want to retard your timing about 3 degrees. I don't know if 420A's have distributers...but if they do, retard it.

Heres the setup we are running on my friends stock civic hatch: 50 shot dry kit with the fuel regulator turned way the hell up, and 3 degrees retarded ignition. Works well

As long as you do it right, you aint gonna blow any shit up. Just go with a resonable sized shot and make sure you got enough gas for it and you'll be fine.

[SilvrEclipse]

There is no way to retard the timing on the 420a without megasquirt or msd ignition box. He should be fine with a 50 shot though.

[rickyrickster25]

Ok so let me get this strait, if i went with a 50 shot dry, it would be ok and i obviously wouldnt be stupid with it because i would hate to ruin my car, but i would probably have it profesionally installed for the simple fact that this isnt something you want to mess up. So what would i need to do fuel wise again? Im kinda lost, sorry, there was a lot of peoples suggestions clashing.

[vanilla gorilla]

A dry kit is extremely easy to install, you could probably do it yourself. If you do a dry 50 shot I would atleast buy a fuel pressure regulator so you can turn your fuel pressure up a bit.

[SilvrEclipse]

I think he would be better going with a wet kit. It will mix the fuel in already so he wont have to worry about anything. A dry kit is to risky IMP. A wet kit isin't that hard to install on our cars.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=130336

[Thor06]

For the wet kit. If for some strange reason I ever get nitrous it will be on a direct port setup though.

[defiancy]

Either kit would work great. IT's up to personal preference really the wet kit looks pretty easy to install. But it's not as easy as the dry kit with an AFPR.

Really since you aren't looking to make big power either kit would be perfectly fine. The Dry kit + an AFPR(you will need an AFPR With a dry kit) may be cheaper than a wet kit.

But a wet kit you wouldn't need to purchase an AFPR, and you will have to do less tuning if any at all.