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#1
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Lifting the Green Goblin 2"
I want to do a lift on 95.5 rodeo. I want to do a simple suspension lift. Am I risking damaging anything with such a small lift. I don't do much off-roading but I want the truck to have a more aggressive look. (Like Ramblin's) Can I buy just shocks with a 2" lift or do I need to buy a $400 2" lift kit? Also, when installing the shocks do I just raise the vehicle and bolt em in or are there other mods that need to be done? I crurently have 245/75/16's on it. I want to go to 32's just cuz they look nice, however, when ordering 32's how do they come? Do they have standard sizes like 245/75/16 or what? I've never done a lift or bought tires other than just standard size tires so any input is helpful.....Thanks.
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#2
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Re: Lifting the Green Goblin 2"
Hello,
I have the 2" lift on my rig, Tony and 32" tires in the 16" size = 265/75 R16's. They are not exactly 32"s however, more like 31.9, but close enough. Not all 265/75 R16's are going to amount to 31.9 though, some might be 31.7-32, etc. For the 2" lift, I installed Calmini shackles, 3" longer then stock shackles on the rear, and cranked the torsion bars up front 7-8 turns each. I am currently still using standard length shocks with no issues. For the front, even after the lift, you still need only the standard length shocks, for the rear, when the time comes, I will get slightly longer shocks. Here's a pic of the truck taken at Chatfield the day you saw us at the gas station:
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1997 3.2L V6 Rodeo 32" Yoko's, 16x8 MB Wheels, 2" lift, Brushguard, KC Fog's, Loadwarrior Rack On it's way to 185k strong ![]() 2004 3.4L Tacoma TRD off-road 4x4 Double cab 32" Yoko's, Westin Bull-bar, KC Fogs 60K miles
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#3
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Re: Lifting the Green Goblin 2"
Thanks Ramblin, What is involved with cranking the torsion bars? tools needed? How big of a job is it?
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#4
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Re: Lifting the Green Goblin 2"
11/16's torque wrench (boxed in wrench); WD40; and a few choice words.....
Most people would/have chosen to raise the front end of their trucks prior to cranking their torsion bars; myself, I simply parked the truck at an angle in our yard where most of the weight was aimed at the rear of the truck - the idea is to keep the weight off the torsion bars while you're cranking them. I sprayed with WD40 only about 20-30 minutes prior to cranking, I was very surprized how easily the bolts turned. However, if your truck has a fair amount of rust, road corrosion, etc on the undercarriage, I would spray the bolts overnight. Make certain you're turning the bolts the same amount of turns. I only did one turn at a time on either side, so that I didn't lose count, and the truck came up evenly.
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1997 3.2L V6 Rodeo 32" Yoko's, 16x8 MB Wheels, 2" lift, Brushguard, KC Fog's, Loadwarrior Rack On it's way to 185k strong ![]() 2004 3.4L Tacoma TRD off-road 4x4 Double cab 32" Yoko's, Westin Bull-bar, KC Fogs 60K miles
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#5
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Re: Lifting the Green Goblin 2"
Thanks, what about the shackles? Did you change thse out yourself too? Was that about the same and did you get them through calmini? Will lifting the front of the truck by the frame release all pressure from the torsion bars?
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#6
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Re: Lifting the Green Goblin 2"
Yeah, I lifted the front of mine up when I did the tortion bars. You might need a good breaker bar (or just a pipe to put over the rachet handle) to get them started.
Another way to raise the rear is to put in an add a leaf spring (made by independent 4x) It raised the back of mine about 2'' and gave it a much better ride when I have the trailer on it.
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97 Rodeo 3.2L, KC Lights, Air Hog Filter, Flowmaster 50 Series, Maxxis Bighorn MT's, 2" Lift. 2004 F150 FX4, Stock, so far |
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#7
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Re: Lifting the Green Goblin 2"
Ok so I just bought my shacles:
"CALMINISuper Strong Shackles-Our shackles are built to last and will withstand abuse. Highest quality available. Made from 3/8" thick laser cut steel plate. Durable power coat finish with grade five hardware and nylock nuts. Sold in pairs. Provides 1 1/2"- 2" of lift over stock." Gonna get new shocks this weekend. Do i need shocks with a 2" lift also? Do the front shocks need to be removed to crank the torsion bars? Gonna change the Diff fluid while I'm under there. Anything else or tips I need to know before starting this job? |
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#8
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Re: Lifting the Green Goblin 2"
Tony, I still have my original stock size shocks on the front & rear, you do NOT need extended shocks up front, period with or without the lift!
For the rear, you *can* get longer shocks, but I'm still running with stock sized shocks - not stock shocks, but stock size with no problems. I did not need a breaker bar to get my torsion bar bolts to start turning, I simply applied wd40 a few hours before, and that was it - they were very easy actually. However, I keep my undercarriage spotless and have very very little rust, this may have something to do with it. No, you do not need to remove front shocks to crank your torsion bars. My sister's b-i-law works for C-Dot as a jack of all trades, and works on diesels/cars on the side as a hobby - I had him install the shackles as the old one's bushings needed pressed/torched out. You WILL need 8 new shackle bushings, you do not want to use your old ones, probably impossible to do so anyways. And, Calmini does not supply them with the shackles. I went with Napa's bushings, however, I wished I had gotten them from independent4x instead, as their quality is much better. Think I paid around $40 or so for 8 of them.
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1997 3.2L V6 Rodeo 32" Yoko's, 16x8 MB Wheels, 2" lift, Brushguard, KC Fog's, Loadwarrior Rack On it's way to 185k strong ![]() 2004 3.4L Tacoma TRD off-road 4x4 Double cab 32" Yoko's, Westin Bull-bar, KC Fogs 60K miles
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