Rolling the Montana Engine Forward

Bjorntaler · #1 10-01-2007, 01:23 PM

Is this difficult to do for a Shade Tree Mechanic? Any special considerations? Like don't do this or make sureyou do this first!!
I would like to change the plugs and wires on my 2000 MOntana.

chris_eitniear · #2 10-01-2007, 11:26 PM

I've changed the plugs and wires in my 2000 Montana before. Its a rough job, but doable. I think the only tool I had to go out and buy was a set of ratchet straps to pull the engine forward with. The hardest part of the job, for me, was getting the plug wires off the back three plugs. All three were stuck on tight and I wound up having to split the boots with a pocket knife while draped over the motor and cussing at GM.

There are quite a few things to take apart before you can actually get to the point of rolling the engine forward and getting at the back three plugs. If you can, you may want to note how everything came apart so it can go back together the same way.

EDIT: I'd recommend using AC Delco plugs. I've read that other brands don't last too long in GMs and this is a job you're probably not going to want to do more than once.

'97ventureowner · #3 10-02-2007, 12:45 AM

It also helps to use a little anti-seize on the threads of the plugs and a little di-electric grease on the spark plug boots so they will be easier to remove again, if the need arises.

chris_eitniear · #4 10-02-2007, 01:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by '97ventureowner

It also helps to use a little anti-seize on the threads of the plugs and a little di-electric grease on the spark plug boots so they will be easier to remove again, if the need arises.

Yep, you're right on that one. I did that even though I changed the plugs and wires at 110k miles. I shouldn't have to do it again, but just in case...

hufhouse · #5 10-02-2007, 06:34 AM

The Haynes Manual has step-by-step instructions for rolling the engine forward. If I could do it, anybody can do it.

Bjorntaler · #6 10-04-2007, 11:19 AM

Thanks for all the help I will be attempting this weekend.

wafrederick · #7 10-06-2007, 12:56 PM

It is horrible and you might want to buy the special tool to move the engine forward called a GM engine moving forward tool.Any Cornwell,Mac,Matco or Snap On dealer sells this tool.Some parts stores sell it too.

hufhouse · #8 10-07-2007, 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wafrederick

It is horrible and you might want to buy the special tool to move the engine forward called a GM engine moving forward tool.Any Cornwell,Mac,Matco or Snap On dealer sells this tool.Some parts stores sell it too.

Huh?

chris_eitniear · #9 10-07-2007, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hufhouse

Huh?

Make that two. I had good luck using ratchet straps. I parked behind another vehicle and hooked the straps to the frame of that one and to the loops on the engine and ratcheted the straps tight. Worked fine for me.

hufhouse · #10 10-07-2007, 04:03 PM

This has got to be sarcasm. It has been over a year ago, but I think I just removed the front mounts and the two throttle cables, put a ratcheting strap on the lift hook and the front rail and ratcheted it forward. Easy as pie.

Nole Chick · #11 11-07-2007, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hufhouse

This has got to be sarcasm...

Nope, it's for real. Did a quick search and found Lisle makes one as well as Thexton. Costs around $40.

electro452 · #12 11-20-2007, 07:40 AM

Anything need unbolted underneath from the exhaust system ? I need to roll the engine on my 2000 montana to change the air solenoid and don't really want to have to purchase the Haynes Manual to learn how to move the engine. Anyone done this that can provide a brief list of items that need disconnected besdies the throttle cable and mounts?

Apprecaite everyones time on this thread....

hufhouse · #13 11-24-2007, 08:41 AM

From "Haynes Repair Manual" #38036 for 1997-2001 Venture, Silhouette, Trans Sport and Montana (which you oughtta buy because it also gives really clear pictures of everything and saves you a ton of time and you can keep it for the next thing that goes wrong) :-)

1. Block the rear wheels, place the transaxle in neutral and disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Caution: on models equipped with the Theft-lock audio system, be sure you have the correct activation code before disconnecting the battery.

2. Remove the air cleaner duct and air cleaner. Also remove the accelerator cable and the cruise control cable from the throttle body.

3. Remove the two bolts and detach the driver's side torque strut from the vehicle. Remove ONE bolt from the radiator side of the passenger side torque strut and pivot the passenger side torque strut towards the engine.

4. Attach a ratcheting strap to the front of the radiator support and to the engine lifting eye on the driver's side strut bracket, the ratchet the strap to tilt the engine toward the radiator side.

electro452 · #14 11-24-2007, 11:48 AM

Thanks hufhouse. Were seeling the car the first of the year so I didn't want to invest in a book at the end of the race.....thanks for the information.....It's been a good ride for over 7 years but it's time for a new vehicle..

JabbaTHutt · #15 11-24-2007, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hufhouse

1. Block the rear wheels, place the transaxle in neutral and disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Caution: on models equipped with the Theft-lock audio system, be sure you have the correct activation code before disconnecting the battery.

So what you are telling me is that if I put a new battery in my van the radio is gonna need a code to make it work again?

Where do I get this code from for a 2003 montana?

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