Electrical Symptoms

[Kristamarie]

I have posted before and you guys were great, I got everything running and it has been fine...until this morning.

I dropped off the kiddies and everything was fine. Got home parked and got ready for work. Came back out and started the van and get these symptoms.

1. CEL light on
2. No Odometer
3. No Tach
4. No Voltmeter
5. Hesitation in transmission, not engine (sounds great), drives liking I am pulling something heavy or going straight uphill, does not matter what gear I am in.
6. Turn signals solid, no flashing.

Everything else looks fine...going to get the codes at lunch.

[guido0136]

What year and what are the codes?

[Kristamarie]

1992 Trans Sport
Codes are:
12
17
31
34
56

[chris_eitniear]

12 Diagnostic mode; no distributor signal to Electronic
Control Module; System PASS

17 RPM signal problem
Camshaft sensor - circuit problems
Electronic Control Module (ECM) computer circuit

31 Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor - signal
voltage is low
Fuel injector
Park/Neutral switch - circuit problems
CAM sensor - circuit problems
Engine speed control governor malfunction (Van)
Turbocharger wastegate overboost
Wastegate electrical signal - open or shorted to ground
Purge solenoid voltage high (carburetor engines)

34 Mass air flow (MAF) sensor - signal voltage or frequency
is low during engine cruise
Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor - signal
voltage is low during ignition on
Pressure sensor circuit - signal voltage too high or low
(carburetor engines)

56 Vacuum sensor circuit fault or quad driver "B" fault
(3.8L VIN1)
Corrosivity/add coolant

Just a hunch, I'd check for a bad ground connection.

[Kristamarie]

Thanks, I'll give it shot after work. Just replaced crankshaft, mass, air flow sensors earlier this year.

I was thinking the computer might be going. Getting other symptoms, but it does not effect driving. Blower motor works then doesn't work, turn signals work then don't work.

[Kristamarie]

When you mention a bad ground connection...are you referring to the ground to the battery or at the starter, alternator, etc?

I had to put new terminal posts on my cables earlier this year (I had to cut them off) because the AC delco battery had welded itself to my original post terminals. I checked them and they are tight.

[Kristamarie]

I just went out and noted another symptom....no juice to heater/ac. Drives only in 2nd gear, even if I manually shift from 1st up.

[chris_eitniear]

Originally Posted by Kristamarie

When you mention a bad ground connection...are you referring to the ground to the battery or at the starter, alternator, etc?

I had to put new terminal posts on my cables earlier this year (I had to cut them off) because the AC delco battery had welded itself to my original post terminals. I checked them and they are tight.

I'd check the terminal posts, both where they go on the battery and where the cable goes into them. Sometimes those aftermarket ends will get some green corrosion where the cable goes into them and need to be wire brushed to clean them out. I'd also follow the negative cable to where it bolts to the engine and make sure there's a good connection there.

[WALLY NC]

If you are using bolt on connecters on your cables, they are worthless. I lived in Wiconsin and put a bolt on connecter on one battery cable and in two weeks it was so coroded my car would not even turn over. It did not appear to be corroded on the outside, but was corroded between the strands of copper wire. I had to pull off the bolt on connecter, wire brush all of the copper strands and then put the connecter back on, just so I could start my car and drive to a parts house to purchase a new battery cable with a factory sealed cable end, that was air tight and would not corrode. Your battery will not charge with those ends on and you will not have a good ground with those ends on.

Wally.

[Kristamarie]

I got another symptom...the light chime goes off even when the doors are all closed and the van is running, so I was assuming it was the ignition switch..all was good.

I pulled all the fuses and checked them by sight....but it seems that there was an old one in there that had cracked. It does pay to have a volt/ohm meter, or I would have been puzzled for longer.

Everything is working fine now....thanks again for everyones input. Sometimes you get overwhelmed and just need some outside thinking

[aamirmali]

which fuse was cracked?