problems with ny 1971 chevy c10

[juarez8149]

my truck runs and starts fine but after about 15 minuts the truck dies and wont start it just studders but after 15 minuts after its sitting it starts and the same thing happens over and over again i was told it could be the distibutor so i replaced it but same prooblem then i was told it could be the coil but it apears to be in very good condition and now im told it could be something with my gas lines making the gas to hot and makes the truck sut off i was told wraping the gas lines with exhust insulation would solve my problem i really want to fix the truck can some one give me a specific thing to look at


i have a 350 engine from a 1984 chevy van with a electrical gas pump in the truck

thanks in advanved for you help

[denisond3]

Unless its very hot where you drive when this happens, I wouldnt think vapor lock in the fuel lines would be the problem. But if there is any place where the fuel lines are within 'sight' of the exhaust system, you might want to shield the fuel lines. Just a thin sheet of aluminum would do it, to stop the radiant heat from the exhaust system from 'shining' onto the fuel lines - or the fuel tank if its within half a foot of the exhaust pipes.
Have you replaced the condenser in the ignition? If you change ignition coils to a non-OEM type of coil, the condenser should match the coil. Not that this is a big deal if the coil is okay and if the condenser is okay.
If your truck is running hot enough for vapor lock (in hot weather), another thing to look into is whether your viscous drive clutch fan has gone senile. Your truck may not have a fan clutch, but if it does; they dont ever just suddenly quit. They slowly lose there strength over years of driving, until they arent spinning the fan enough to pull air over the motor in low speed driving. On the level at highway speeds you dont even need the fan. But going up long grades, or driving in slow traffic - the fan much be spun fast enough!
If your electric pump is more than 3 or 4 years old, you might want to put a fuel pressure gauge into the line near the carb (and downstream from the pump of course) and see if you really have decent fuel pressure. I think that anything from 3 psi up to 7 or 8 psi would be fine. If the pump was only meant to provide 3 psi when it was new, then it might be lower than that now.
Also check your fuel filters. There should be one just 'before' the fuel pump, wherever that is located - unless the electric pump is located inside the tank. Even then, the in-the-tank fuel pumps have a plastic mesh 'sock' on their inlet. This can get clogged with the larger flakes of silt from your old fuel tank.
I have a 1972 motorhome, with 35 year old fuel tanks. I have a plastic in-line fuel filter just before the fuel pump. I get the plastic kind I can see into, so I can check for clogging from the reddish silt from the tanks. I carry extra fuel filters with me always. A filter can last 5000 miles, or it can clog up on 40 miles of lumpy interstate (I-10 west of Baton Rouge for example)! I have the filter where I can reach it from under the front bumper, and with a small flashlight that I can hold in my teeth, I can change that filter in less than 5 minutes.

[chevy69_cr]

my 69 c-10 has the same problem accept when it does start the idle goes up and down, sorry i cant help, but i was wondering, im new, how do i post my own questions?