bov constantly blowing off

caniborrow50cnts · #1 09-07-2007, 11:58 AM

i finished my 6 bolt swap, i am trying to reprogram the apexi computer I have but it is difficult to monitor the air flow when it is constantly flucuating. while idling, the engine is constantly making the noise as if the blow off valve is constantly releasing the air pressure. like it is blowing off during shifts. ideas?

SilvrEclipse · #2 09-07-2007, 12:09 PM

What bov are you using? So you get a little whistle at idle from the bov?

steviek · #3 09-07-2007, 12:37 PM

yea mods list please

caniborrow50cnts · #4 09-07-2007, 04:28 PM

1g head, 1g block, 6 bolt motor, 2g exhaust, 2g intake, apexi air flow system, apexi exhaust, apexi intake piping, intercooler, 550cc injectors, apexi bov, t3 turbo, downpipe, i have adjusted the air/fuel ratio from 0% correction to +30%, doesnt seem to affect this, some injen parts also but i dont remember exactly which ones, only a few though, timing is perfect, compression all across the board, no issues with plugs/wires

TalonEclipseMixGsx · #5 09-07-2007, 05:35 PM

Usually with bigger injectors, you subtract airflow. Can you tell if you're running rich? You say you have it at +30, maybe the ecu is seeing alot of air coming into the engine, and wanting to release it. Just a thought

defiancy · #6 09-07-2007, 05:44 PM

You may also need to adjust your BOV. The spring tension could be set to loose.

Thor06 · #7 09-07-2007, 06:48 PM

My advice: take it to someone that knows whats up.

caniborrow50cnts · #8 09-07-2007, 07:13 PM

before i had ever swapped the engine, it was set at +25% at 1000rpm. i can only logically figure, the bov went bad, so I will check the spring, or vaccuum leak, my airflow hovers at stoich while idling, when I lower the correction, the idle drops, runs lean, but doesnt change that noise. i have one of the techs that worked on the cybernation rsx-s car, which he now owns, coming over to help figure it out. if he could get 450+ hp out of that little engine, then I am sure he could figure this one out. unfortunately, he doesnt know crap about mitsubishis. which is why I still need some additional research. i will keep looking into it, just had a long time issue with oil leaks, i finally finished.

caniborrow50cnts · #9 09-10-2007, 04:26 AM

update. put everything together on the car, drove it 30 miles, accellerates slugish, could be because apexi isnt program, doesnt explain the bov noise. it doesnt seem like there is air coming out of the bov. it is making the same noise as if i am constantly shifting. the sound appears to be coming out of the air filter

Thor06 · #10 09-10-2007, 09:01 AM

Have you done a boost leak check? Are all the vac lines hooked up right? When you do the boost leak check, have someone sit in the car and watch the boost guage. If the boost leak is big enough you might not hear it and intake system wont hold any pressure at all. Do you have a wideband o2 sensor? If you dont, dont put any stock in that a/f ratio guage.

vanilla gorilla · #11 09-13-2007, 12:27 AM

The bov problem or air leaking sound problem would have nothing to do with the piggyback settings right? I'm thinking its all in the vacuum system. Check for leaks, do a boost leak test.

caniborrow50cnts · #12 09-13-2007, 03:12 AM

did a boost leak test, never found a leak, it is possible issues with vaccuum. thats the least of my concerns now. its gotta be a botched rebuild job, but the head gasket is blown. im not sure exactly what occured first but it just started overheating suddenly, after it cooled, i added more water, didnt see any leaks anywhere. drove fine though still a little sluggish, 5 miles later, overheated again. cooled again, checked for leaks, found none, put about 2.5 gallons of water in. drove it another 5 miles, overheated again, allowed it to cool. this time while filling it up, i noticed i couldnt top it off, cooler hose leaking, fixed it. took out the plugs since it didnt want to stay running, was about to check the compression, in place of the air in the chamber is .46 liters of water. 62 miles on the engine, definately explain why it was sluggish if water kept leaking in to one of the cylinders. i never found any oil in the water and my oil pressure never changed...dunno
anyone have a 2g motor with low miles they are selling. i think i will just put the right motor in the car this time.

defiancy · #13 09-13-2007, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caniborrow50cnts

did a boost leak test, never found a leak, it is possible issues with vaccuum. thats the least of my concerns now. its gotta be a botched rebuild job, but the head gasket is blown. im not sure exactly what occured first but it just started overheating suddenly, after it cooled, i added more water, didnt see any leaks anywhere. drove fine though still a little sluggish, 5 miles later, overheated again. cooled again, checked for leaks, found none, put about 2.5 gallons of water in. drove it another 5 miles, overheated again, allowed it to cool. this time while filling it up, i noticed i couldnt top it off, cooler hose leaking, fixed it. took out the plugs since it didnt want to stay running, was about to check the compression, in place of the air in the chamber is .46 liters of water. 62 miles on the engine, definately explain why it was sluggish if water kept leaking in to one of the cylinders. i never found any oil in the water and my oil pressure never changed...dunno
anyone have a 2g motor with low miles they are selling. i think i will just put the right motor in the car this time.

Dude I have to say, that royally sucks. Did you have your engine rebuilt at a shop? Before you go looking to buy a new motor, you should rip apart what you have and see if any major damage occured. Even if it was a catostrophic failure and you have to rebuild it, why spend the money buying another motor when a rebuild kit for that engine would probably be cheaper?

vanilla gorilla · #14 09-13-2007, 02:58 PM

Did you have the head re-surfaced before you put it on?

caniborrow50cnts · #15 09-13-2007, 11:59 PM

engine was rebuilt at a "racing shop." the head and block were already pieced together for me. i found an engine supposidly has only 3000 miles on it, rebuilt of course, out of a 98 though. good deal though. im going to strip it down and check for flaws. Even with the engine I have in the car right now, I am sure it is just the head gasket. without any water in it, seems to run just the way it did before the first overheat. I plan on taking it all apart, sell the head and internal block parts. I can still make my money back by selling the 1g parts I bought, and sell the additional parts I got with the new engine, like the compressor, alternator, etc.

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