Transmission clunk on reverse from Drive

[woodmanho]

I have a 99 Camry, and the transmission clunk when I shift it to reverse gear from Drive. Engine and transmission mount replaced. New transmission fluid. The trans is still very strong and smooth without any problem when driving. Any advices? Thanks in advance.

[davemac2]

Is there a delay from when you shift it into reverse to when the clunk happens? Try it from neutral into reverse a few times, waiting for at least 1 min between shifting. If you have ruled out engine mounts from the replacements, then it could be still be the transmission such as one of the brake bands or lockup clutches, or the O-ring in the accumulator reponsible for the reverse shift. To fully diagnose this, you would need to have a series of tests done on the trans such as measuring the line pressure, stall speed tests, etc. Low line pressure can cause this symptom also.

As well, if you did not use OEM engine mounts for your replacements, this could also still be a contributor to harsh engagement. also make sure your idle RPMs are within spec and not high.

dave mc

[woodmanho]

Thanks for your info.

D -> R Clunk all the time
N -> R Clunk only the first time, no clunk after the first time

I don't know I need to wait 1 minute before shifting. Very seldom to wait 1 minute before shifting, specially city driving.

All mounts are obtained from dealer.

What if the issue is line pressure, brake bands or lockup clutches, or the O-ring in the accumulator? Is it major rebuild?

[woodmanho]

No delay

[davemac2]

You don't need to wait 1 min always, that's just for this test.

So it sounds like maybe it is a CV joint issue, excessive play in the differential, or still an engine mount issue? I say this since you don't seem to be able to repeat the clunk going from neutral to either D or R. Were all the mounts checked?

You may be best to take it back to the dealer and have them check the line pressure and do a stall test on it rather than a trans shop. The problem with trans shops is they always want to quote for a full rebuild to cover their a$$es. It's hard to know exactly what the problem in the trans is (if that is where it is) unless the trans model has some symptom history. The dealer with its TSB's and intimate knowledge of these transmissions may be the best bet unless you know of a trans shop that you really trust. EG. THe dealer may have a service bulletin which describes this symptom and a procedure to tighten one of the brake bands accessible from the outside the trans or something; or this symptom is exhibted when one of the shift solenoids leaks, etc. A valve body issue would usually imply a new one since the labor to rebuild one is high. If you are handy, you could attempt to replace the accumulator O-ring seals yourself without having to drop the valve body at all. In my case, I would do that since I can do it quickly and it is low cost, and it may fix the issue (may not though). All that is required in that case is to drop the pan. Bad line pressure could imply leaking internal seals, worn pump,etc. In that case, it usually means a rebuild since to fix this, you need to tear down the trans anyways.

dave mc

[csaxon]

Rear Lower mount- Stops the motor from slamming back down from drive torque, and is the only mount stressed in reverse. Usually, it’s just the bushing you need to buy. If the main bolt through it has worn out the washer or cast mount you will need to buy the washer or the cast mount.

[woodmanho]

Thanks for all the imputs!

All mounts are brand new from Toyota including the rear mount. The following is still happening:

Transmission: No Clunk between P <-> R <-> N (No Delay)

Transmission: Clunk between D <-> R (No Delay)

D upshift, downshift smoothly like brand new.

This is ODD...trans shop or dealer I guess!

Thanks again!

[csaxon]

Check the mounts again and make sure they're all torqued properly. It's frustrating sometimes trying to "guess" the problem without being there to diagnose. Your "clunk" may be my "click". Good Luck.

[woodmanho]

Check with Dealer (Stealer), need front and rear struts. Plus axle seized which needs service. The bill is $2090. How can the axle problem only happen from D to R, not P/N to R? Forget about the struts which is not even related.

[davemac2]

I think you need to get some clarification from the dealer in terms of a 'siezed' axle. The only thing that can really sieze besides the differential are one of the wheel bearings. A new wheel bearing should not cost more than $250 installed. This does not make sense in terms of the clunk you have been getting. Wheel bearing symptoms are usually excessive road noise. Ask them the very question you are asking here. I would take it to another dealer and let them diagnose it for a second opinion.

dave mc

[xfeejayx]

if you had a seized axle, you'd be driving in circles (literaly) or not moving at all. I'm with davemac, not even sure what "seized axle" means.

Also, for the struts, buy the monroe quickstruts and do them yourself. The difference is unbelievable, and it won't cost you more than $700 for the whole job (all four). search it in the forum for details.

[woodmanho]

Toyota dealer now rephases the words: one axle is seizing and it will evenly stop. Front and Rear Struts needs to be replaced as well. They charged $100 minimium charge for the BS. This Toyota dealer is a expensive joke!

Fianlly, I took it to a trans shop and aother repair shop.
(1) Trans shop concludes transmission issue after short road test.
(2) Repair shop lifts up the car with one mechanic sitting in the car while the car is still running. The guy sitting inside the car keep shifting D to R, R to D ...etc. At the same time, there is another mechanic pay attention underneath the car and confirm the cause coming from the trans. The guy underneath the car checks all mounts OK.

The repair shop said that there is no need to repair it even until I sell the car many years after.

[davemac2]

I think your next step if you want to take it further would be to get your hands on any toyota service bulletins related to your car/trans and see if this is something showing up with similar model/year. If it is, then you can go back to a toyota dealer and argue about them fixing it for free. Of course, avoid that first dealer at all costs.

Those mechanics you brought it to above sound like they know what they are doing. I would keep them in mind next time you need repairs done.

good luck,

dave mc

[Mike Gerber]

"Those mechanics you brought it to above sound like they know what they are doing. I would keep them in mind next time you need repairs done."

I agree with davemac2. These guys seem to know how to diagnose something like this; not just guess at something. Definitely consider them for your next needed repairs.

Mike

[soddog4]

woodmanho,
I know this discussion is VERY old but I'm wondering if you ever resolved your issue? My 1999 Camry is doing the EXACT same thing that you've described here. Did you ever figure out what the problem was and how to fix it? Thanks!