girlfriends car stalling at light and jerks on highway

[truomega]

I posted a while ago how my girls 3.0 v6 95 Taurus with 105000 miles jerks on the highway. Well we put some fuel cleaner in it and it helped for a few months but problem returned again where she would just be cruising at 55 or so mph and the car would just jerk for a second or two (as if it bogs down). At the same time the check engine light would illuminate. When the jerking ends the check engine light goes out and the car drives normally. This happens about 3 times within a 30 mile drive.
Now a new problem has arose.... At one point she put the car in reverse from park (engine was warmed up already) and it stalled. Twice thereafter the engine stalled at a red light. When the car stalled out in all instances, she was able to restart it. Car runs perfectly fine otherwise.
What we have done so far is replace the spark plugs, the wires, the cap and rotor, air filter, radiator, throttle position sensor, oil and filter, cleaned the throttle body and idle air control valve with carb cleaner and used lucas fuel treatment twice. We had it checked out for codes but nothing comes up.
Any help/advice would be appreciated so thanx in advance.

[Willyum]

Did you change the fuel filter?

[taillight]

Test fuel pump pressure.

[shorod]

Pull the codes and see if they indicate something about a misfire, ignition module, or cam/crank position sensor. Your description sounds like a misfire.

Since you 1995 is an OBD-I system, you may not find auto parts stores that will read the codes (at no cost to you), but you can jumper a couple of wires on the diagnostic connector and let the Check Engine Light flash out the codes. The codes should point you in the general direction of what to check.

Scroll to the bottom of the page at http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub...l_dtcs_70a.htm to see which wires to short.

-Rod

[truomega]

Ok... so i got the codes but i cant figure out how to read them so ill just explain what i saw:
i will represent one flashing check engine light as "I" and the dashes (-) will represent the time aloted between the check engine light lighting up so well say one dash = 1 second:

I-I-I----I-I-I----------I----I-I-I----I-I-I
So now this is with the engine off placing the jumper wires in place and then turning the key. The fan turned on, the fuel pump primed, then they shut off and the check engine light started up as described above. Dunno if this matters but what happened before the check engine light started to blink was it blinked once but very dimly before it started to blink as described above. I didnt think that it counted so i didnt add it to the list above although someone may think that the dim light is important. Also, when that sequence above ended..... The check engine light did not illuminate thereafter. I waited about 20 seconds but nothing else showed up.
Hopefully someone can explain this. Thanx in advance for ur help.

[way2old]

It seems you have a code 33 which is the PCM did not detect the EGR valve opening. Check voltage on the EGR sensor. One wire will be ground, one will have 5 volts as a reference voltage and the third will have a varying voltage. If it is over 1 volt on the variable, replace the sensor. It is also possible the EGR valve is carboned up and causing the engine to run rough. If the EGR is stuck i9t will also set the same code.

[truomega]

Thanx for the heads up on the codes but would a bad egr valve cause the symptoms that i mentioned in the first post?

[way2old]

Yes it would if it is not seating and causing a vsacuum leak.

[oasisgod]

Just FYI

You read the codes by counting the blinks and the space between them. between digits of the same code there will be a 2 second pause and between codes a four second pause. So for instance for a code 23 it would come out as Two blinks foloowed by a 2 second pause and then 3 blinks then long pause indicating that was the end of the first code. After about four seconds the computer will start on its next code which it will spell out to you the same way.

The fan kicking on and fuel pump priming was the computer doing its self diagnostic, thats normal when you go to read the codes.

Hope this helps.

[truomega]

thats odd cause i looked at the diagnostic codes and couldnt find a code for 33. The numbers start at 111 according to this website supplied by shorod. In addition to oasisgod's repost... If u say thats how to read the codes then shouldnt it read as number 133 as opposed to just 33 cause the light lights up once before it lights up 3 times then 3 times again.

[taillight]

For 95 I think all the codes were 2 numbers.

[way2old]

I may be wrong also. After a good night sleep and re-reading, the codes may be the 111 which is a pass. Go to this site. It has both 2 and 3 digit codes for the 95's.

[shorod]

The factory service manual shows that the codes for a 1995 Taurus are 3-digit codes, but code 133 is not a valid code.

Truomega, would you be able to retrieve the codes again and repost?

-Rod

[mrtyc]

i just had my 1996 f-350 351w rebuilt and it has the same code 133.Before the rebuild and the blown head gasket reason for rebuid it ran fine. Now it has rough idle bad milage and the only code with no light 133. Been to 2 ford dealers with no answer. HELP

[mrtyc]

forgot to mention the reason for head gasket was a 2 doller freeze plug.