1996 Taurus Wagon Electrical?

[FordOwner51]

Just purchased a used 1996 Taurus Wagon. Wife drove it the other day,and it sat for 8 hours while she was at work. She came out and it was dead...no response at all. Tried jumping without success. Waited 24 hrs and it jumped and started.

Also when you turn vehicle off and try to lock the doors to exit the vehicle, the "key alert" chime sounds and the driver's door lock pops back up. Are the two related or am I dealing with two different headaches?

Any ideas for repair (besides the stick of dynamite)?

[Selectron]

Hi FordOwner51, and welcome to the forum. If the car didn't start even when jumping from another battery then there's a strong possibility that the starter solenoid isn't being powered. The circuit for that is: fuse - to ignition switch - to Clutch Pedal Position Switch (for a manual) or Transmission Range Sensor/Switch (for an automatic) - to starter solenoid 'S' terminal. If any part of that path fails then the starter won't crank the engine even when jumping the battery. Add to that the fact that you're having problems with the door locks and the key alert chimes, and I think it could all point to a faulty ignition switch.

That's not certain yet though so let's take one thing a time. First thing I'd do is connect a wire to the starter solenoid 'S' terminal and use that as a remote starter, thereby bypassing the ignition switch, and see if the starter then operates reliably. To do that, look at the starter solenoid and you will see three terminals - two will have heavy, large-diameter cables connected to them and the third will have a real thin wire connected - that's the terminal that you're interested in. Connect a wire to that terminal and route the other end up to near the battery - don't connect it to anything though; just have it sitting there ready.

Next, switch the ignition to On, then ensure that you select Neutral (for a manual) or Neutral or Park (for an automatic), also ensure that the parking brake is on and then go to the battery and touch the bare end of that wire to the positive terminal of the battery. The starter should crank and the engine should fire and run - as soon as it does, remove the wire from the positive terminal.

If the starter operates reliably using the bypass lead then it indicates a fault in the ignition switch 'Start' contacts, or the transmission safety switch, or the wiring in that circuit.

You should also ensure that the battery terminals are clean and free from corrosion, so remove the connectors and clean the terminals and mating surfaces of the connectors with a wire brush, smear with a protective coating of Vaseline™ petroleum jelly, or dielectric grease, and then reassemble. Also clean and apply protection to the large-diameter cable which connects from the battery negative terminal to the engine block - this carries the return current from the starter motor so a good connection at the block is vital for reliable starting.

I don't think you have battery or alternator problems, because even if you did it should still have started when jumped from another battery. Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

[Willyum]

If the key is in the ignition, the door locks will pop back up when you try to lock it up. Is a feature to help people not lock the key inside the vehicle.
I've had to replace my battery twice and both times was not able to jump start the car. Don't know why. Replaced the battery and the car worked fine.

[Mediarocker543]

I had to replace my starter, When you turn the key, does it make a "click" noise? If so, the solinoid is engaging but the starter is binded. I have a 1996 Ford Taurus Sedan, which had the same problem, My mom took my car out to Wal-mart. Not even 1 hour in there, the vehicle was working fine. She then called and said it wouldnt start. Well it couldn't have been my battery, because I replaced it 45 Miles ago. (at the time) I whent out there and heard the starter binding, got irritated with it and hit it with an 11/16th's wrench. it magically worked. I was able to drive it home and replace the old starter with a Duralast Refurb Starter.

Hope this helps!

[shorod]

Originally Posted by Mediarocker543

...heard the starter binding, got irritated with it and hit it with an 11/16th's wrench. it magically worked.

It wasn't really magic. What probably happened is the starter solenoid was engaging the starter gear, but the brushes in the starter were sseized in their carriers. When you hit the starter with the wrench, the brushes unseated and made contact with the commutator of the starter and allowed the motor to run again.

The "hammer test" is a pretty common test for a bad starter motor.

-Rod

[Mediarocker543]

Originally Posted by shorod

It wasn't really magic. What probably happened is the starter solenoid was engaging the starter gear, but the brushes in the starter were sseized in their carriers. When you hit the starter with the wrench, the brushes unseated and made contact with the commutator of the starter and allowed the motor to run again.

The "hammer test" is a pretty common test for a bad starter motor.

-Rod

Thanks for the explanation

"The more you know!"

[gusvicmor]

Hi... I have a taurus 93. My car don't starter, is like don't have any gas. I thing is the fuel pump problem, but, when i'm try start the car, the spark plug don'y have electry power.
I'm check the fuses... i'm change the gas filter, but nothing happen. I can't find the fuel pump relay, i don't know how loock like
Can you please help me!!

[shorod]

So you've checked the spark plugs for spark and they don't have any? If that's the case, the problem is not fuel (at least not solely fuel) but you'll first need to determine why you don't have spark. You can also check for fuel using a $10 fuel pressure gauge at the fuel rail.

Which engine is in your '93 Taurus (3.0L 12V Vulcan, 3.0L 24V Duratech, 3.0L 24V SHO, 3.2L 24V SHO, or 3.8L)?

-Rod

[Mediarocker543]

Originally Posted by shorod

So you've checked the spark plugs for spark and they don't have any? If that's the case, the problem is not fuel (at least not solely fuel) but you'll first need to determine why you don't have spark. You can also check for fuel using a $10 fuel pressure gauge at the fuel rail.

Which engine is in your '93 Taurus (3.0L 12V Vulcan, 3.0L 24V Duratech, 3.0L 24V SHO, 3.2L 24V SHO, or 3.8L)?

-Rod

Sounds like to me its the High Voltage Coil packs.

[gusvicmor]

I don't really know what is the problem, but somebody put at wire between the fuel pump and fuse panel and the car starter.

[shorod]

Then the problem may be as simple as a bad or tripped fuel pump inertia switch in the trunk (assuming you have a sedan). The purpose of this switch is to shut off the fuel pump in the event of an accident or heavy impact. If the switch was tripped, your fuel pump won't run. But, bypassing the switch by running a jumper from the fuel pump to the fuse panel would allow a good fuel pump to run.

I hope you are not running the car this way for anything other than troubleshooting.

-Rod

[gusvicmor]

Ok.. i have at station wagon... and I don't know where is the switch, I see in the back a label, but, when I open the small panel, I don't see

[shorod]

On the wagon, it is located in the right rear (passenger side in the US) cargo area, behind right rear wheel well. There is usually a little access hole or access door and either a white rectangular button or recesses red round button to press to reset it.

-Rod

[gusvicmor]

It is the red botton what I can't finder... I check tomorrow.. thank you so much

[shorod]

Originally Posted by gusvicmor

It is the red botton what I can't finder... I check tomorrow.. thank you so much

I suppose there's a chance that when the fuel pump was hotwired, they removed the cutoff switch and jumpered around it. I would certainly hope not, and any responsible professional would not bypass an OEM safety feature, but it would not be unheard of.

-Rod