How different is my 94 LS from a 9c1?

[NorthSideChevy]

my 94 LS has the 5.7 LT1....the interior is leather and its pretty much like a SS Impala inside with all the power options, its the fully loaded LS pretty much....so how much different is my caprice than the cop car, and how could i modify it so that theres no real difference (besides the cooling hoses, thicker frame, back window, and suspension cause i allready know about that and the steel rims) i dont wanna make it look like an Impala or anything im proud of my caprice, i just want it to be the best caprice that it can be.....could it hang in a race with a 9c1 or SS???

[96capricemgr]

Impossible, 9C1s like Impalas are magical supercars and share nothing with a lowly civilian POS.

Best advise I can give you is get over this delusion that the 9C1 and SS were special. For example IF there was a thicker frame a tow package car like yours has it. Your drum rear brakes work BETTER than the rear discs the other two cars had because GM used the drum proporioning valve, I say this after having had both in the same car the drums and discs, for 95-96 the windows were all the same, suspension is worn out by now. The 9C1 external oil cooler blindly cools oil rather than regulating the tempature like the tow package or Impala in radiator cooler does. The 9C1 power steering cooler is in a word worthless. There is literally NOTHING there worthwhile. They are just Caprices.

Want to make your car the best it can be you are heading in completely the wrong direction, CAREFUL selection of aftermarket stuff would be an infinetely better way too go. If that brings to mind things like Hypercrap or Granatelli well don't buy any of that either as it is junk.

What do you want out of the car? Handling, power, towing performance?

[Blue Bowtie]

The SEO frame isn't really thicker, but has additional bracing, supports, gussets, and some areas of channels which are closed rather than being 3-sided. You can probably make the Caprice about as rigid by simply installing body mount bushings in all the locations along the frame where they are missing (which is probably about eight total). The SS cars are also missing those bushings, so only the 9C1s were supposed to be built with all of them in place.

The SS has different springs, and those can be installed in any other chassis to effect the same ride height. Obviously, alignment needs to be corrected after changing height.

The aftermarket sway bars available will hold the body more level than the OEM SEO or SS parts. Shocks with lighter damping and higher rebound control can be found everywhere.

The axle can be made into a locker fairly easily.

The dual exhaust should already be present, and the same as the SEO or SS cars.

The rest of the drive train is identical. Scan some 9C1, SS, and "plain" Caprice PCMs for a calibration number and you'll find they are the same. There is no speed limiter/fuel cutoff on the SEO and SS cars, and likely isn't on "plain" Caprices.

I'm not sure about the rear drums being as effective as the rear discs, but Duane is correct about the proportioning valve being the same for both. There are easy ways to remedy that and get decent brake bias.

The rest is cosmetic.

[NorthSideChevy]

hey thanks for the info, i kinda had an idea that my car couldnt be much different than a 9c1 as far as Im concerned my car is better just cause I have all the power options, leather interior, and a sport suspension (I think the SS and 9C1 have whats called a special handling suspension) everything is digital inside my car....but as far as how i want to modify it, i just want to step up the power, my car has about 114k on it is there any thing i should think about fixing or replacing soon?

[NorthSideChevy]

thanks for the reply thats pretty much what i need to know

[Blue Bowtie]

Actually, the 9C1 and WS7 (Impala) have different suspensions. Shocks, springs, and rear sway bars are different. I'm not sure about the front sway bars. The 9C1s also have air dam "wing" baffles acting as brake coolers, and a few other items not found on WS7 and "plain" B-Bodies. They also have that really nice 1950's kitchen ceiling style dome light.

At 114,000 miles, there are several things which should have been done as regular maintenance, and probably a few non-standard service items which may need attention.

• The cooling system should have been flushed and refilled at least three times b now.
• The rear axle should have been drained, inspected, and refilled.
• At 14 years, the brake fluid probably should be flushed completely.
• If the OptiSpark distributor hasn't been replaced yet, you might want to consider getting a cap/rotor kit, the Torx bit, and some alcohol and swabs so you can replace those on your engine. When you remove the Opti, the water pump has to come off, so replacing it with a reman might be a good idea.
• Spark plug wires should be inspected for damage and checked for continuity.
• The fuel filter should have been changed, and will be due again at 120K.
• The transmission should be closing in on its fourth drain/filter/refill.
• The park brake shoes (if rear discs) need to be inspected/adjusted or replaced.
• Shocks are due for replacement if they are original.
• The timing chain and sprockets are very heavy duty on the LT1, so there is no need for any preventive/preemptive replacement.
• Rear control arm bushings need to be inspected. If you launch hard frequently, they are likely in need of replacement.
• Front lower- and upper control arm bushings and lower ball joints are due for inspection.
• Front wheel bearings should be nearing their second repack at 120K.

As for modifying it for more power, the steps necessary will depend upon just how much power you want and how much daily driveability you want to maintain. A different camshaft and head work are the usual steps in adding power. Along with the cam, better valve springs, studs, and rockers are essential. The '94 models still used the older style rotating assembly, but they were reasonably well balanced from the factory (much better than old SBCs) and will survive quiet a bit more than stock power levels.

Personally, I wouldn't waste my money on cold air intakes, special ductwork, aftermarket MAFs, and mail-order off-the-shelf PCM reprogramming, since they rarely result in much power for the investment. Those kinds of "mods" are intended for those people who want to try to do something good for their car but don't actually want to turn any wrenches.

For what you would spend on some CAIs and MAFs, you can have a very decent Comp cam kit, and make a lot more power than a different MAF or piece of plastic pipe would ever afford. My '94 got a fresh (OEM) bottom end, 2.02/1.50 Manley valves, heavily (template) ported heads and intake, balancing, Comp cam, screwed studs, good springs and rockers, a new timing set, and all the gaskets and supplies to pull off the rework for just under $1200 when I did it. You could easily spend that on a Granitelli MAF, cookie-cutter PCM reflash, designer CAI, and the labor to install it all, and still be left standing at the staging line.

The number of dollars spent divided by the amount of horsepower increased is a good measure of modification value. I spent about $15 for every HP I gained.

[96capricemgr]

Ported heads and a cam can make a HUGE difference. Really need things like a CAI and full exhaust from headers all the way on back, these things can be self made like a $20 "sewerpipe" intake or can cost hundreds and anywhere in between.

My setup is pretty much top of the line for HP with a stock shortblock without a blower or nitrous or the like, I have more than $15 per HP into it but then again it is making somewhere near 400rwhp, stock is 220rwhp. The drivetrain really does consume that much power.

Have too watch it, this is a slippery slope, Blue Bowtie will remeber YEARS ago when we were on another forum and I knew nothing, I am a quick study and learn from my many mistakes. These days the car can be considered my one bad habit and it performs well enough to make guys with lighter cars and bigger motors stammer making excuses.

You decide you want too play the best advise I can give is RESEARCH and ask people who have achieved the goals you want to achieve and ask them what they would do differently not just what they did. Frankly I believe there is more bad info out there than good, the hard part is sorting though it all and figuring out who is just trying to lead eveyone else down his path of mistakes and who really has things figured out. Usually the guy more willing to admit mistakes will have more figured out because he was smart enough to learn from rather than deny them.

[SEVILLEMAN601]

Originally Posted by 96capricemgr

Impossible, 9C1s like Impalas are magical supercars and share nothing with a lowly civilian POS.

Best advise I can give you is get over this delusion that the 9C1 and SS were special. For example IF there was a thicker frame a tow package car like yours has it. Your drum rear brakes work BETTER than the rear discs the other two cars had because GM used the drum proporioning valve, I say this after having had both in the same car the drums and discs, for 95-96 the windows were all the same, suspension is worn out by now. The 9C1 external oil cooler blindly cools oil rather than regulating the tempature like the tow package or Impala in radiator cooler does. The 9C1 power steering cooler is in a word worthless. There is literally NOTHING there worthwhile. They are just Caprices.

Want to make your car the best it can be you are heading in completely the wrong direction, CAREFUL selection of aftermarket stuff would be an infinetely better way too go. If that brings to mind things like Hypercrap or Granatelli well don't buy any of that either as it is junk.

What do you want out of the car? Handling, power, towing performance?

Are you serious??? regular caprices and 9C1s are totally different. I know from personal experience. I had 2 93 9C1s and currently own a 95 LT1 9C1. Obviously, you have never driven a 9C1. my friend has a plain 95 with LT1 and I don't think he will ever try to pull up next to me again. = )

Dont get me wrong. 9C1s are not always as good as you think (mostly due to heavy foot police that like to jump curbs and push people out of their way, lol) If you want power/handling/etc and can afford to replace a few parts, go with the 9C1. If you want a clean ~pretty car~ , you should go with the plain. Some 9C1s are very clean, but most have minor to major problems. If you choose a 9C1, be prepared to replace the front end suspension and possibly the rear.

In my opinion, plain caprices are a piece of crap! I love the looks I get from the guys riding the plain chevys here. I can feel their envy = )


Also, can you guys give me a few suggestions on what I should do for more horses and routine care? I have already replaced the entire front suspension and the rear is next. That is basically all I have done besides a tranny flush, oil change, new radiator, thermostat, oil filter, plugs, air filter, etc. Also, does anyone know a good website to find cheap parts? I have been checking around and a distribute cap for my car is $200+ (300+ at the dealer). I need a 2 upper control arms for the rear also. The # is FB382