Suspension key lift ?

[ColoradoSilverado]

I'm thinking about doing a 2" lift on my Silverado, probably use blocks in the rear and the "keys" in front. Is it hard to do those keys ? Also, what is the maximum size tire that will fit on the stock rims ?

Bert

[fillupread]

You lost me on "keys" to lift the front.

lift kits for any IFS truck isnt cheap and a 2" lift wont allow that much bigger of a tire but it will be noticible.

[TexasF355F1]

Originally Posted by fillupread

You lost me on "keys" to lift the front.

lift kits for any IFS truck isnt cheap and a 2" lift wont allow that much bigger of a tire but it will be noticible.

Sorry, you're wrong.

http://performancelifts.com/cgi-bin/...ml?id=PqrTvmmj

Found this kit. Not to expensive and includes shocks. Says they don't have it in stock though.

I've never done it, but if you know what you're doing I'd imagine it wouldn't be too difficult.

[bigbadram51]

Mechanical know how and the "proper tools" are what you need. Unloading those torsion bars can end in fatality with out the proper tools. Many guys have done it without them with nothing bad happening. Some have gotten lucky because the improper tool let go. With Ford keys you can get about 3 inches of lift safely, although without new shocks it will ride like s*it. 2 inches of lift with stock shocks shouldnt be too bad. On another quick note 3 inches or more of lift with the stock UCA's you will quickly ruin you upperball joints and also puts to much of extreme angle on your CV axles. All of that being said, you get 2 inches of lift up front and 2 out back, you could probably stuff some 35's (with stock wheels only or a custom wheel with a lot of backspacing) in there with only a little trimming of plastic inner fender well and front bumper valance. A true 33" would look good.

[fillupread]

Originally Posted by TexasF355F1

Sorry, you're wrong.

http://performancelifts.com/cgi-bin/...ml?id=PqrTvmmj

Found this kit. Not to expensive and includes shocks. Says they don't have it in stock though.

I've never done it, but if you know what you're doing I'd imagine it wouldn't be too difficult.

Nope! Im still right, which you supported with " ive never done it but if you know what your doing I imagine it wouldnt be too difficult"

This lift kit is so ghetto it shouldnt be sold. If you want to go this cheap and incorrect just turn up your bars and buy some add-a-leaves or blocks.

Here are a couple of problems. Your A-arms have a certain amount of travel. This kit does not increase any travel or even move the area of travel. All it does is change where your A-arms sit at with a load on them. So that said, whats the point of the shocks? Oh, to cost you some money.

This kit changes your CV axle angle and forces it to continously operate out of its designed range. In short, decreasing CV life expectancy and increasing failure.

This kit also changes the 'Apex' at which your suspension rests which is going to make it ride like crap.

A full kit actually does not move the suspension angle down (as this cheap kit) but the frame up. Its called "roll center" which keeps the suspension basically in stock angle but allows 2,3 or 4 inches of lift. With full kits you can even retain original alignment specs allowing for simple alignments. This cheap kit will not only change your track but your factory alignment specs for camber and caster will be different along with the ackerman effect.

If you are wanting a slightly larger tire for looks to putter around town you might be better off with a 2" body lift. If so, there are draw backs if you do those wrong too.

Not that a full kit is easy, but this cheap kit requires you to unload the torsion bars. That can be dangerious even with the correct tool if you still dont know what you are doing.

[bigbadram51]

Many of the top Suspension kit manufactures, including CST, Cognito, Fabtech, Full Throttle, Pro Comp and so on allow for "up" to 2 inches of cranking of the stock torsion bars. More if you have higher indexed keys. The rough ride has more to do with the less amount of down travel you have on you shocks and possiblility of hitting the bumpstops. Not so much the "Apex".

As for the CV axles, as long as you keep it in the 2 to 3 inch range your CV axles will be fine, will they wear out sooner (over 76k miles on my factory's and 20k of that with the crank and lift), yes slightly, but just buy replacements from Autozone or another auto parts store that offers lifetime warranty.

Cognito for one makes a leveling kit designed to get rid of the chevy rake (front sits lower than the rear). It includes new keys and new UCA's (Upper control arms) with servicable, replaceable ball joints (factory chevy UCA balljoints are not, the entire arm needs to be replaced. Other companies make similar products

As for alignment with cranked TB's, easy to get back as long as you dont over crank.

Long story short, if you are looking to run only a slightly larger tire like a 33", keys and block are a great inexpensive way of doing it. Body lifts arent bad but are very time consuming to install and will cost more to do than a TB crank. GOING BIG, like I did came at a considerable cost, but to me was worth it. I have been running cranked TB's for 2 years and lift and crank for a little more than a year had an alignment in 2004 with the TB crank and an alignment May 06 when the lift was put on with the new UCA's, still tracks straight as an arrow and the steering wheel is straight.

Dont take it from me go to one of the greatest forums for any type of lift is on http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=19 go to this site do some searching. There are some serious "wheelers" there that will agree with what I have said.

[judgeman6970]

i agree with bigbadram51.....i'm running 33's on my '03 1500...have had the truck leveled(cranked up about 2") for 12k miles now....rides firmer(which i like), but no clearance or other problems whatsoever....