90 Ranger - Dual Plug 2.3 - Very Weak Spark

[goldberg_52403]

Hi everybody,
I have been searching a lot on these forums and was hoping to open a thread of my own. I have a 90 Ranger with the Dual Plug 2.3, and out of the blue one day it shut down on the interstate. Towed it home, and have been messing with it for a while now. One side of spark plugs have very weak spark, and the other side doesnt have any spark. The plugs and wires definitely need replaced, but it did run strong until it I ran into this problem. It cranks no problem, but doesnt want to fire.

From going through the forums, I have a list of what I think it could be, I would highly appreciate any bit of advice.

1. ECC Fuse - fuel pump turns on, so i am leaning against this
2. Timing Belt - not sure about this, would it actually affect the spark?
3. Coil Packs - i am told autozone can test these if brought in
4. Ignition Module - leaning towards this if both coil packs are getting weak to no spark.

Also, would anyone have some removal advice for #3 or #4, they seem somewhat difficult to get to with the exception of the one open coil pack. Also, sorry if I misexplained something, this is my current understanding.

Thanks in advance.
-Eric

[carlos80]

Sounds like you've narrowed it down pretty good. Either coil pack(for weak spark) or module(for no spark on the other) or both, I replaced a module once on one of these and it wasn't cheap. How good are you with a meter and a test light? If profecient enough get yourself a wiring diagram and do a few checks. I could walk you through them if you feel confident enough.

[goldberg_52403]

Thanks for the response. I am going to try to take the coil packs and maybe the ignition module out tomorrow. If they are hard to remove, I think I'll pick up a meter. Do you remember how difficult the ignition module was to remove?

[carlos80]

Depends on your skill level but overall not too hard. If you do end up replacing it keep in mind that it grounds through its housing and that you have to put some di-electric grease on the back. By the way you might want to call Autozone they might be able to test it for you.

[goldberg_52403]

Thanks again for the response. Yesterday it came to my attention that the timing belt did snap. I spent a good time yesterday with a friend putting a new one on, but it still acts the same way spark-wise. The yellow timing markers were only adjusted manually, as we didnt have any other tools. When a timing belt snaps, would anybody know if it could cause any other problems spark related? I was told there is a difference in snapping a timing belt compared to throwing your timing, so Autozone thought I probably didnt hurt too much.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
-Eric

[carlos80]

I belive this is a non-inteference engine so snapping a belt wouldn't really affect the engine after the belt's replaced. A good way to check for this is a compression test, just make sure all pressures are even and within specs. In my opinion it would not cause the problem you described. I'd go back to coil, or signal from module to coil or power source to coil.
Check power source to coil packs then module signals(ground). If I remember correctly coil packs have one power source to each pack and the other two wires are module controlled grounds(one coil each). So hook up test light to power and the other end to connector, while cranking, test light will light up really quick and dim(if you cup it in your hands you'll see it easier). And of course check for power source, I think its the center wire on each connector.

[goldberg_52403]

Glad to hear that about the belt, so it may be okay. I did have one of the coil packs tested at autozone, and they said it "had no resistance", which is good i guess. They said they would try to test the ignition module if I brought it in, I am still leaning towards that as the culprit. I would just be surprised if the belt snapped and the module went out at the same time.

Thanks for your help carlos80.