99 brake sticking issue

[burnchassis3]

Hey all,
I just put new rotors ,calipers,and pads on the front of my blazer..drained the old fliud and replaced it with new.
However
My brakes are still sticking? I get out from a highway drive to see my pads smoking and a cherry red rotor.
Whats my problem?
Thanks for the help
CS

[Rick Norwood]

I assume you have ABS Brakes. Did you Bleed the ABS unit? Can you hear the ABS Pump running Constantly or Continuously?

[burnchassis3]

Originally Posted by Rick Norwood

I assume you have ABS Brakes. Did you Bleed the ABS unit? Can you hear the ABS Pump running Constantly or Continuously?

yes abs ,but i did not bleed the abs unit?
I do not hear it running unless I attempt to lock up the brakes...then i feel it
They dont always stick..just sometimes.
thanks

[Rick Norwood]

Originally Posted by burnchassis3

yes abs ,but i did not bleed the abs unit?
I do not hear it running unless I attempt to lock up the brakes...then i feel it
They dont always stick..just sometimes.
thanks

Is the ABS Light on the dash lit up? Do a search on this Forum, but I am pretty sure you need a Scanner to do a proper Bleed on an ABS unit.

[old_master]

Possibly a restricted hydraulic line to the caliper. If the line was twisted when you attached it to the caliper, fluid can not pass freely through the line in both directions. Hydraulic brake pressure will pass through when you apply the brakes, but when you release them, the fluid is trapped in the caliper leaving it applied. Open the bleeder and notice if fluid comes out under pressure, and the rotor truns freely after the pressure is relieved. If it does, replace the flex line, don't just straighten it out and hope for the best. After being that hot, the pads and rotor, and quite possibly the caliper need replacement also.

The scan tool is only necessary if the master cylinder goes dry.

[Rick Norwood]

Originally Posted by old_master

Possibly a restricted hydraulic line to the caliper. If the line was twisted when you attached it to the caliper, fluid can not pass freely through the line in both directions. Hydraulic brake pressure will pass through when you apply the brakes, but when you release them, the fluid is trapped in the caliper leaving it applied. Open the bleeder and notice if fluid comes out under pressure, and the rotor truns freely after the pressure is relieved. If it does, replace the flex line, don't just straighten it out and hope for the best. After being that hot, the pads and rotor, and quite possibly the caliper need replacement also.

The scan tool is only necessary if the master cylinder goes dry.

Good points, I guess that's how you earned you name. My concern is that he said he drained the fluid. We don't know how he did this, or how much was drained.

I have heard of the pumps going bad and running constantly.

[burnchassis3]

Originally Posted by Rick Norwood

Good points, I guess that's how you earned you name. My concern is that he said he drained the fluid. We don't know how he did this, or how much was drained.

I have heard of the pumps going bad and running constantly.

I pumped the brakes with the caliper off untill the fluid was gone from resivoir.
Then filled it and proceeded to bleed from the bleeders.
The lines are stock ..put back the same way they came off no twists i see at all.
The problem happened before i put new brakes on it ....seems the brakes always would stick alittle bit I always notice hot rotors...but the problem happened again today with new stuff.
And NO ABS light on
thanks to all I appreciate your help!

[Rick Norwood]

Originally Posted by burnchassis3

I pumped the brakes with the caliper off untill the fluid was gone from resivoir.
Then filled it and proceeded to bleed from the bleeders.
The lines are stock ..put back the same way they came off no twists i see at all.
The problem happened before i put new brakes on it ....seems the brakes always would stick alittle bit I always notice hot rotors...but the problem happened again today with new stuff.
And NO ABS light on
thanks to all I appreciate your help!

You did clean and grease the slide pins, and made sure they were free, Right? You might try getting the codes read to make sure something isn't hidden.

[old_master]

You will need a scan tool that is ABS capable to bleed the system. Follow the procedure in the shop manual. No way around it. In the future, to flush the system, open one bleeder at a time until clear fluid comes out, then close the bleeder. During this time, make sure the master cylinder is full of fluid. NEVER pump the pedal with an open line.

[burnchassis3]

Originally Posted by old_master

You will need a scan tool that is ABS capable to bleed the system. Follow the procedure in the shop manual. No way around it. In the future, to flush the system, open one bleeder at a time until clear fluid comes out, then close the bleeder. During this time, make sure the master cylinder is full of fluid. NEVER pump the pedal with an open line.

Understood,but If I messed it up by doing this...why did it happen before I did anything to it at all?
Thanks

[old_master]

Possibly had a seized caliper piston, binding hardware, or a collapsed flex line.

[burnchassis3]

Originally Posted by old_master

Possibly had a seized caliper piston or binding hardware.

Before ,I do not know ,but now calipers are new, hardware is new/greased ,its 100% clean everywhere else.
Both sides are sticking drivers,and passenger side....both were smoking today...it dont pull to one side or another.

[old_master]

If both sides are doing it, and the ABS light is not on, (and it works when you turn the key on) I would suspect the master cylinder. If the master cylinder has ever been removed from the booster, the push rod may be the problem.

[burnchassis3]

Originally Posted by old_master

If both sides are doing it, and the ABS light is not on, (and it works when you turn the key on) I would suspect the master cylinder. If the master cylinder has ever been removed from the booster, the push rod may be the problem.

Ok I was thinking that too...
Any tips before I go rip it off?
Thank you very much for the time you took from your day to answer my post.
CS

[old_master]

Two lines and two nuts, pretty straight forward. The master must be bench bled before installing back on the vehicle. Then you need to get your hands on an ABS capable scan tool and bleed the entire system, front and rear.