Brak questions -- fighting warped rotors

[bluelyner]

one year ago, changed spindle, and front half shaft. --- within 6 months, my rotor began to warp, changed rotors, brake pads, caplipers.
3 months later rotor began to warp again, feel a vibration when braking. Also, when lighting braking, slowing down for a stop light (under 10 mph) it feels like the car is wobbling side to side and can feel what appears to be the pad touching the rotor more then less intensley. This is very uniform wobble, and not random.
At times the front left brake smells warm, but not all the time, it is intermittent.

CV joints are now clunking and need to replace again --- what would be causing the brake issue, and why would my cv joint go out so quick? I saw another thread about brake noise after replacing the rotors, How can I tell if my CV joints are truely going bad, beside taking to a shop?

Would the spindle have play in it that would cause this?

I can replace these components again, but if something is causing these to go quicker than normal, I want to hit the root cause.

[Willyum]

CV joints will last the life of the vehicle, have to check for a boot failure, when they go, the CV joint is at risk. RE wobble: You might also suspect a tire. I had a set of Firestone tires that caused exactly what you are describing. If a belt slips on a radial, it will cause the car to "wobble" at slow speeds.

[bluelyner]

Just rotated tires a month ago, I still feel this in the steering wheel. it will progressively get worse, and then when I change the brake pads, and turn the rotor it will go away for a while and slowly come back.

The clunking I have is consistent to the clunking I had when I had to change the CV joint last year, thus my determination of the joint again. based this is with the left front on all these issues, it appears to be all related to me.

[way2old]

Do you have all the mounting surfaces for the rotor cleaned? If there is rust or dirt behind the rotor on the hub, it can cause premature failure.

[bruker]

Do you do a lot of stop and go driving like a mail or newspaper route? That's a killer on brakes. I've put 230,000 miles on an Explorer and 204,000 miles on a Windstar and never replaced the rotors or ever had them turned. When I need to stop down I apply the brakes, let off and coast a bit, then apply them again until I stop. If you can keep the rotors from heating up too much they won't warp.

[bluelyner]

driving style has not changed in the last three years, and this has just started to happen in the last year, after changing the spindle.

I made sure stuff was clean when I replaced them, but I also had a mechanic do some work on it too, it is possible that something is throwing it off there, will check into that option and go from there, thanks all.

[TomV]

Who is doing your repair work? Overtightening the lug nuts will cause rotor warping. My son has a Hyundai, as well as a friend of his, that each had both rotors (OEM) that were not removeable without using a gear puller and lots of force to get by the lug bolts. The rotors were loose off the hub, but the rotor was deformed enough to get stuck on the threads of the lug bolts. The hubs were fine since the new rotors went on without a hitch.

Our local Pep Boys facility uses Tork Stix to prevent the air tools from overtightening lug bolts. I only tighten by hand and am careful to do no more tha necessary. My wheels have not fallen off.