nitrous freaks?

[Chiquae07]

well, maybe i shouldnt say freaks.

i have some good news, and bad news.

good news, the sentra and its transmission is in one piece still.
and im finally getting rid of the altezza's for some all clear tails, to smoke out.

bad news,
front motor mount is going
cousin bought a 03 eclipse gts

and now since he bought this, he has been rubbing it in my face quite a lot that his car is faster, since before he had the acura legend. no traction in 1st or 2nd, so i could beat him in the 1/4.

so ive done my research, and i figure id need a 80 shot. the trans will hold it, and so will the engine block. this is the best thing, since nitrous kits are basically universal, so i can hook it up to almost any car i want. hell, hello lawn mower.

anyone good with these formulas and things? trying to figure out the jet size needed and all this other stuff.

is there like a shopping list for this, or just buy a kit, tune with an afc, and call it quits or?

[CassiesMan]

Originally Posted by Chiquae07

so ive done my research, and i figure id need a 80 shot. the trans will hold it, and so will the engine block. This is the best thing, since nitrous kits are basically universal, so i can hook it up to almost any car i want.

This part is funny.

Quote from a guide discussing performance parts from LS1tech.com

Originally Posted by jaberwaki

Nitrous Oxide (or N2O) is a chemical oxidizer; it is two parts nitrogen and one part oxygen. The oxygen is the part that makes power. Gasoline combines with oxygen in a combustible mixture. The more of both gasoline and oxygen you have, in the proper amounts, the more power you make. So why not inject pure oxygen? Simple: pure oxygen is much, much more intense of an oxidizer. Having about five times the intensity that N2O provides, pure oxygen would melt your motor.

Bang for buck, N2O is the fastest way to make power. That being said, N2O has a bad reputation for giving more BANG then people expected. Let me go on record as saying, this is not the N2O's fault. The fault is on the person trying to get away with spraying nitrous and only having $500 total to put into it. Nitrous is a SAFE power adder, if it is both set up correctly and used properly.



Setup Types

There are 3 major types of nitrous setups.
1. Dry
2. Wet
3. Direct port

As with most choices, there are pluses and minuses to all of them.

Dry:
A dry shot relies on the car's MAF, PCM, and fuel system to add the proper amount of fuel to balance the nitrous out. That is, the nitrous is sprayed in front of the MAF, which recognizes a sudden spike in O2 and signals the PCM, which decides the proper amount of fuel needed to balance the mixture. It is the cheapest of the setups to purchase. It also leaves no chance of fuel "puddling" in the intake. The weak point in this system is the car's fuel system. The dry shot is limited to the car's ability to increase fuel. Often a shot will find the weak spot in the fuel system, be it the injectors, the fuel pump, etc. Spraying N2O without the fuel to support it equals the kiss of death for your car.

Wet:
A wet shot does not rely on the car's MAF, PCM, or injectors to provide the proper amount of fuel to balance the mixture. It has a separate fuel line with its own jetting that is set up to spray the exact amount of fuel needed to go with the size nitrous shot you are using. In some cases, this may require you to step up your fuel pump, but you need not worry about your injectors. Some drawbacks are that with a separate fuel line and the fact that the spray is happening AFTER the MAF, any trouble with the system will go unnoticed by your PCM until it's too late. If your nitrous stops spraying but the fuel does not, then it will puddle and possibly introduce you to your hood-- the hard way... If the fuel side cuts out but the nitrous side does not, then you will go drastically lean and blow your motor. Threat of these things can be minimized. Buy GOOD parts, not the cheapest you can get away with.

Direct Port:
A direct port setup mixes the N2O and fuel, and directly injects the mixture into each individual cylinder. It is by far and away the safest and best way to use N2O. It does have one major drawback... PRICE. The direct port system by itself, can cost north of $1500. That does not include any of the supporting parts, that really are must-haves with ANY nitrous setup.


Accessories

Not just the base kit. If you plan on running N2O and would like your car to last more then just one or two runs down the 1/4, then you should compliment your base kit with the proper accessories. These include:

- RPM Window Switch: It will turn your nitrous kit off and on at preset RPMs, 1. so you don't spray under low RPMs, which can blow your motor; and 2. so you don't spray right into your rev limiter, same reason.

- Fuel Pressure Safety Switch: If your fuel pressure drops below a safe range while spraying nitrous, the safety switch will shut the nitrous off to keep from running the engine too lean.

- Bottle Pressure Gauge: It allows you to safely monitor your nitrous pressure from the passenger compartment.

- Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Switch: Also called a WOT switch, it only allows your kit to turn on when you are at Wide Open Throttle.

- Automatic Bottle Heater: It will keep your bottle at the correct temperature and pressure to ensure that you are spraying the correct size shot. This is especially important in a wet shot setup, as the shot of fuel will not adjust to the lack of nitrous from a cold bottle.

- Purge Kit: This vents old nitrous left in the lines from the last time you sprayed, and keeps it out of your motor.


This is not everything there is to know about nitrous. It is only a quick, down and dirty introduction to entry-level knowledge that you should have before you go the N2O route

If you wanna spend all that money just to be able to beat your cousin in an Eclipse (seeing as he's driving a "sports car" and your in a econobox family sedan), then go for it. Or you could do the smart thing, take the near thousand it would cost to spray, put it in a bank account, and save it up towards buying a fast car.

Honestly, I would go out and race your cousin first to even see if it is worth getting a spray. Hell, for all you know some bolt ons would be more than enough to beat him, be less cost wise, and more usable in the long run. But hey, to each and all. Of course, I'm still stuck on the fact that your getting pissy because your cousin has a "faster" car and are thinking about spraying just to beat him.

[Chiquae07]

haha. not gettin pissy or anything, just want to.

and he wont auto-x. that was what i wanted to do in the first place.

besides, there isnt any thing that is cheaper to do left to my car for about 600 bucks.

aka, cams, tune, port and polish, etc.

already have all the bolt ons i can get, without going inside the block itself.

cai, header, cat back, light rims.

im auto so that pretty much cancels everything else out.

no ecu reflash - unless i go stand alone, i could advance timing, but thats good for maybe 2-3whp. thats pretty much all i can do, unless i want to build a motor.

[GForce957]

save it for a new car

[Chiquae07]

thats what i have decided to do. gonna have stiggy come delete this thread or w/e.

[CassiesMan]

Yeah, nitrous is one of those things that everyone thinks is cheap speed. I was seriously considering spraying Cassie, I had made tons of phone calls to find places in the area to fill the bottle, do installs, stuff like that. Even talked to some people at Zex (seems like most people who spray BMWs go with NX or Zex). In the end though, the entire thing costs way more than its played out to be.

[CivRacer95]

Welp, I'll take your request to close the thread at that. Consider this closed after my post.

Although, there are such things you could do like fuel upgrades, such as your injectors, fuel rail, and pump, and on top get it tuned and dynoed.

But I see where you are going with the conversation. You could also just try lightening your load. Take out your spare tire, seats (including your passenger seat), buy some lightweight wheels and some good tread, go with some suspension mods and lower down a bit (roughly about 1.5-1.8 inches, otherwise you'll be looking for a new camber kit). People seem to forget how important your rim size and tires can be to make that little extra difference.

If you are running on 17's or 18's, try switching to maybe some 15's or 16's. Rims that is. The less the rotation, the better it possibly can be.