replacing balljoints and idler arm

[SuperDanny]

I've seen balljoints done on many Caprices (B-bodies) but never on the C/K trucks/SUV's. I have a 98 Suburban, 2WD, w/5.7L engine. Is the balljoint replacement something I could tackle, with the right tools.
Any hints or things to watch out for?

One more question. I notice these trucks have an idler arm bracket in addition to the actual arm. Is the arm the typical wear piece, or does the bracket wear too? I see RockAuto.com stocks/sells both.

Thanks

[Jeremy-WI]

If you're mechanically inclined you could do the balljoints yourself. If you're lucky, your upper and lower balljoints are bolted in. On my 96 K1500 the upper was riveted in and the lowers were pressed in. I got a cheap ball joint press from harbor freight and replaced them. I used a big hammer to pound out the old pressed in joints, and when putting the new ones in, remove the rubber grease sleave from the new balljoint if it isn't already off. It takes a little patience to get the pressed in joint started straight

It's also helpfull to have a balljoint fork to break them loose

[taillight]

The upper ball joint is riveted and lower pressed in. Drill the upper rivets and then use a chisel to remove the head and a punch to remove the rivet. Rent or borrow a ball joint press from an auto parts store.

[SuperDanny]

I have a factory service manual for a large GM b-body car (Caprice/Roadmaster). It looks like you stick a jack under the lower control arm to keep the spring compressed? Do you keep this under the LCA at all times? How does the ball joint come out with the thing compressed? Do you have to remove the lower control arm or upper control arm?

Thanks - sorry for all the questions.

[taillight]

First answer yes at all times. The upper arm floats up and down. Don't remove either arm, just the ball joints. As for the idler arm, replace both.