98 S10 PU 2.2l Voltage Fluctuations

[Nap0le0n]

Howdy. This is my first post.

My battery light came on recently and whenever I used the radio, AC, etc. the voltage would drop and drop until the truck just finally died on me. I replaced the alternator and serpentine belt and it seems to have done the trick but...

Now the dashboard voltage meter fluctuates between 14 and a little above 9. It again seems to be whenever I use the radio, etc. but even the turn signal will cause it to drop. It also takes a second or two to turnover in the morning whereas previously it was instantaneous (turn the key - engine is on) I checked all of the electrical connections to the alternator and they seem to be fine.

Im planning a trip soon so, any help y'all could give would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Napoleon

[MT-2500]

Voltmeters are not always good to go by.
Start with a voltage check at battery.
Check battery cables and alt amps out put and voltage.
Then see if voltage is holding inside to everything.
MT

[drdd]

I'd consider replacing your belt tensioner. When it starts to fail, it'll cause what seems like intermitant drops in voltage on the dash because the belt is momentarily slipping.

It's way easy to do. You use a 3/4in? ratchet without the socket on it. Put that on the tensioner and use the ratchet to as leverage to loosen tension on the belt. Then, just unbolt and replace. Should take 5 minutes. To my knowledge, they can't be repaired, only replaced. $30 ??? maybe

Originally Posted by Nap0le0n

Howdy. This is my first post.

My battery light came on recently and whenever I used the radio, AC, etc. the voltage would drop and drop until the truck just finally died on me. I replaced the alternator and serpentine belt and it seems to have done the trick but...

Now the dashboard voltage meter fluctuates between 14 and a little above 9. It again seems to be whenever I use the radio, etc. but even the turn signal will cause it to drop. It also takes a second or two to turnover in the morning whereas previously it was instantaneous (turn the key - engine is on) I checked all of the electrical connections to the alternator and they seem to be fine.

Im planning a trip soon so, any help y'all could give would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Napoleon

[Nap0le0n]

Ok....
I'm not a mechanic and never really got into auto repair so, I don't really know how to check the alternator voltage (I just barely know how to use a multi-meter).
I checked the battery with the truck off and it was at 11.8Volts so, Im guessing that it needs charging as most everything I've seen says that it needs to be in the mid 12's.
The positive battery terminal and wire had a bunch of white corrosion on it so, I wire brushed them till they gleamed.
After that, the voltage meter in the truck stays steady about two ticks below 14. No jumping around!
But...... I'm still sort of worried because it used to be at or above 14 before the whole alternator fiasco.
Is this ok? or should I continue delving into the problem?
Thanks,
Napoleon

[Nap0le0n]

Oops forgot to mention that the belt tensioner seems to be fine (It took quite a bit of effort to be able to get the belt on and off and the wheel spun 'round ok)
NC

[Nap0le0n]

Just thought I'd post a follow up.

I continued having the volt meter jump up and down. Since no one would tell me how to check the alternator amps and voltage, I decided to fall back on an old computer repair axiom. Check connections first, then cables, then start looking for problems that aren't so obvious.

All of the connections were clean/tight and the cables were fine so, I tried to remember if there was any differences in how I put the alternator in versus when I took it out. I remembered that the cable connecting into the back of the alternator was sandwiched between two nuts when I pulled it out. The alternator I had purchased had the two nuts as well but, it also had a funky two piece washer. I obviously didn't know where the thing went so I put it on in this fashion: alternator, nut, washer, cable connector, nut.

I took the assembly apart and re-arranged it this way: alternator, nut, cable connector, washer, nut. Now I have a steady 14 to 14+a little bit on the volt meter in my truck. It has held steady for 5 days now so, I think that this was the problem.

I just have one question: Why would the placement of that washer have any effect on the reading in the dashboard?

NC

[BlazerLT]

Did you recharge the battery when you replaced the alternator?

The battery could be shot now and overloading the system.

[Nap0le0n]

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

Did you recharge the battery when you replaced the alternator?

The battery could be shot now and overloading the system.

Yup. Trickle charged to full capacity when I discovered it lower than mid 12's. Checked it again after the "fix" and it was fine.

Still doesn't answer my question though...

What difference would the placement of the washer make?