Two issues - Engine whine and speed related humming

[AZeline]

Hi all, I have two issues I want to verify w/ ya'll. And I'm fairly certain they're unrelated. Oh, and I have a 2K Stratus w/ a 2.4L

1st. - I have an annoying whining sound in the engine area. It sounds a whole lot like a power steering pump that's low on fluid. BUT... (there's always a but) I've triple checked the fluid levels in my reservoir and they seem fine. Unlike most steering pump noises, this sound is made regardless of steering wheel turning or not. It's just constant. Proportional to engine speed is the only corolation I can find. Is this a sign the pump is going? Do I simply need to change the fluid? Is it even the pump at all?

2nd issue - A noise in the front of my car that I can only say sounds like a deep, hard humming sound. It sounds alot like the bearings. It gets louder when I go faster, and quiter when I slow down. It's a little louder on highway curves in either direction, but more so on right hand curves. Actually, I'm fairly certain that's the issue, but I've never changed them on a front wheel drive vehicle before. This is why I'm asking all of you fine posters. The auto parts store says it sold as a hub assembly. Is that correct? Is it a tough job? Are their any special tools needed (ie bearing press)?

Thanks for you time on this in advance,
E

[AZeline]

Anybody? Anybody? Bueller? Bueller?

[dsramprat]

As for the first issue. If it is a growly whine, it may be the power steering pump going bad. If it a high pitched whine, it may be the idler pulley for the serpentine belt. Just a couple of possibilities.

The second problem - the wheel bearings are sold as a hub assembly. They are not hard to change. You will need to disconnect the lower ball joints so you can pull the CV shaft out of the hub, but after that there are just 3 8 points star bolts that attach the hub/bearing assy to the steering knuckle. Don't try to lubricate the bearings, they are sealed.

[AZeline]

Thank d.

I didn't even consider the idler. It's more low pitch but I'll have to give that a good lookover when I change the hubs.

I'll pick it all up this weekend. Looks like i'll be getting greasy! (not greasy from the hubs of coarse )

[dsramprat]

No Problem. I have had my '97 since - well '97. I have done almost all of the work myself. I haven't had too many problems with it, but I have had to rebuild the engine (2.4). My wife found out the hard way that cast aluminum oil pans don't like to hit things on the road. Thank god for the balance shafts - that is what locked in the engine and that entire assembly is replaceable.

The idler pulley is not hard to change, it is just kind of a tight fit between the engine and wheel well. I'm sure you already know this, but you loosen the serpentine belt at the alternator, you shouldn't have to remove the belt, but you can if it is easier for you. It is held on by one 15mm bolt. Pay attention to the way the old one comes off!!!! If you put the new one on backwards, it will not turn and your belt will squeal like a stuck pig. Beware of aftermarker idlers. I bought one from AutoZone and it was not the same thing. You can pick one up from the dealer for about $15 to $20.

If that does not fix the growl, it may be power steering like you suggest. Check all the hoses as best you can (because they are routed behind the engine, above the exhaust). If you have to start changing PS components, you may want to try the reservoir first. I can't confirm this but, I have a feeling that after a while, the fluid obviously gets dirty, and it may be restricting suction port, or the pump may be just wearing out.

Just a couple of possibilities, but I hope the idler is the problem, because it is easy and inexpensive.

[AZeline]

SOOOOOO much better now.

dsramprat thanks for the tip. The idler was the exact cause of the whining noise. The more I thought about what you said, the more it made sense. Plus the idea of spending $30 vs. 95 was quite a balance tipper if you know what I mean. I went to the dealer for the idler and it was $30. The remanufactured p/s pump was $95 plus $50 for the core charge. And I wasn't quite ready to get power steering fluid all over the garage floor.

Naturally, I also replaced the serpentine belt while I had it out of the car as well

So here's a recap for anyone going through similar issues or taking on the task of replacing either of these items.

The serpentine belt was easy to replace, the tricky part is working in those close quarters. I removed two plastic covers. Once by the oil filter (great time to change that too as access is so much better), and the one above the alternator pulley. Then once I loosened the alternator, the belt came out from the bottom rather easily. I loosened the idler with a 15mm wrench. Note DO NOT USE A CRESENT WRENCH I allready learned that lesson years ealier. The angle and the narrow working area is a knuckle breaker waiting to happen! The hardest part of that job was getting the new idler back in it's place. I had to thread it blind with two hands reaching under the fender. That alone took 20 min. While I'm at it, I replaced the old dried up body clips holding the plastic covers in place, and once had popped off its head, and the other folded over and slipped through the hole causing it to run a small hole as it bumped the tire.

As to the hubs, the toughest part was the removing of the lower ball joint, I had to get a large wedge (big screwdriver) to give a small down force and use my jack to lift the assembly a couple inches. I was extra careful of the ball joint seals so that parts all good. The wrench needed for that is 21mm. Had to make an extra trip for that since most metric sets only go to 19mm. Also mentioned was three 8 point bolts are a reverse or internal Torx. The size I used was E12 if I remember correctly. I ended up buying the Leslie set that Sears had online. I also discovered that my inner brake pad wears faster then the outer. So smart of Mopar to put the indicator on the outer pad so get the joy of burning through the rivets before the indicator starts to make any noise! speaking of breaks, I changed those too! As to the exact procedure, it's in a manual. To much to type up here. Also I must note I had to use a gear puller to get the right side axle shaft out of the old bearing hub. That wasn't fun either. Kinda scary really since the left side just came through like buttuh'! But it was just a little surface oxidation clogging up the wors. Nothing was damaged though.

Anywho, my car is sooooo much quiter. Now I can here all the other sounds