1999 Grand Am GT ticking

mjtr21 · #1 07-31-2007, 10:56 PM

Well I have a GT with the 3.4 engine and it developed a ticking. Could this be the lifter? It has been about 3000 miles or a little more since last oil change so I had it changed. A couple of days later as I approached a stop I heard a loud ticking noise. I took off and it stayed. It has now been about a week and a half since and it still ticks. The only time it ticks is when the engine is warm. If I start the car in the morning there is no noise except for injectors. Then as I drive about a mile the ticking comes back. I had the oil changed again because I figured that was my problem but no change. So I had it changed yesterday to Castrol GTX 10W30. I also put in a bottle of Rislone in place of a quart of oil. It seems like the ticking isn't as loud but don't know. Also the other day as I approached a red light, I heard 3 chimes and I looked and the Oil Pressure light was on. So, I accelerated and the light went out. It did it at every stop but when I pushed the gas pedal it goes out. It doesnt happen everytime I drive the car either, just sometimes. Then the SERVICE ENGINE SOON came on so I checked the code and it was P0305 which is cylinder 5 misfire. That is also the area where I can hear the ticking noise too. I know that its on the driver's side of the car and it does sound like it's in the back. So would this indicate that I have a bad lifter in cylinder 5? Or am I looking at another problem? Please help. I should also note that there is hesitation when I accelerate too. Thanks in advance.

GTP Dad · #2 08-01-2007, 08:20 PM

Usually lifters will tick when the engine is cold and go away as oil pressure builds. Unfortunately you may have a more serious issue. Pull the plug on #5 and see what the electrode looks like. It is possible that you have a bad plug or wire that is causing the issue. If the electode is bad then change the plug and see what happens. Sometimes ticking can be due to a bad or loose wire so a new set of wires may be in store as well.

While you have the plug out do a compression test. If it is low it may indicate you have a bent or damaged valve that would account for the ticking as well. Worst case scenario is that you have a bad rod or a damaged piston. Good luck and let us know what you find.

mjtr21 · #3 08-01-2007, 10:21 PM

okay i will change out the plugs and wires with new ac delco ones tomorrow. would these bad plugs be causing the low oil pressure light to come on also? it only comes on when i am stopped but when the RPMS is at 800 or higher it goes out. so if i rev the engine just a little bit it goes out. yeah i was also going to have my mechanic do a compression test tomorrow so i will see what the outcome is and post back. thanks for the suggestion.

GTP Dad · #4 08-02-2007, 05:53 PM

Usually if the oil pressure light goes on it indicates a low pressure condition caused by a lack of oil, restriction the the guage, bad pump or a worn out engine. I would check the sending unit to the oil pressure guage and possibly try a manual guage to see if the pressure is dropping that low. Sometimes the sending units go bad and give this type of readings. That would be the first place to start.

To answer your question a misfire condition could cause the light to come on if the RPM's dropped too low to sustain the pressure. See what happens once you change the wires and plugs.

mjtr21 · #5 08-03-2007, 02:51 PM

yeah but my car is hesitating quite a bit. if i floor it from a stop it will act as if i'm only pushing the pedal about halfway down. so if this sending unit is bad then would it affect this hesitation too? also where would i get one of these oil pressure guages and where do i hook it on? thanks for all the help.

GTP Dad · #6 08-04-2007, 11:38 AM

The oil sending unit is located above the oil filter. (It won't usually cause the hesitation but most of these cars have a fuel pump shut off connected to the oil pressure and if the pressure drops too low it will cause the fuel pump to cut off.) It looks like a small round can with a wire attached to it. You an purchase a manual guage at most autoparts stores. Also the hesitation could be caused by the misfire but it could be something else. Check your fuel pressure as you may have an issue with the fuel pressure regulator or the fuel pump. Believe it or not it could also be the speed sensor in the transmission causing your problems. But we won't go there until you have some of the other items looked at.

mjtr21 · #7 08-06-2007, 05:52 PM

well my low oil pressure light hasnt come on in about 4 days and the service engine soon hasnt come on in almost a week now. but i still have that stupid ticking/clicking noise. 3 of 4 mechanics that i brought my car to told me that it was the lifters. one mechanic told me it could be the connecting rod or rod bearings. but the other mechanics told me that that noise would be more solid and more stronger. so what would be and ideal price range for me to pay to get the lifters redone?

GTP Dad · #8 08-06-2007, 09:15 PM

If you can live with the noise just keep driving. Because the 3.4 is an overhead cam engine you are looking at a significant sum to remove and replace them. Possibly $1000 to replace due to the configuration. If it becomes totally annoying have the lifter that is causing the issue replaced and leave the others alone. It won't cost as much but will give you peace of mind. PS. I may be off on my estimate of cost due to not knowing labor rates and cost of the lifters.

mjtr21 · #9 08-20-2007, 07:30 PM

well the damn car died last night. i driving down the road about 20-30 feet from my driveway and my oil light came on and the car started chugging and hesitating. then it shut off and i coasted into my driveway and parked it. my oil pressure light hasnt come on in a couple of weeks so last night was the first in a while. so i tried starting and it probly wont run now. when i tried starting i had to hold it in start for about 5 seconds and when it started the car shook and wanted to stall. so i shut off the key. the oil is okay and everything. i know ive done damage now haha. what does anybody think happened? could a rod have broken or did the engine spin a bearing? im not sure at all im clueless... please help but it think it needs another engine.

xeroinfinity · #10 08-20-2007, 07:40 PM

Your engine isnt an overhead cam, but a set of lifters are around $100 for the parts, about $400-500+ to replace.

If its blown then you could be looking at a big cost here.
A used motor isnt always the answer either, might end up with something just as bad IMO without getting a warranty or some guarantee .

Could be as simple as a head or intake gasket.
Both of which, depending on mileage on the engine, could be bad. If they have never been changed, I'd shoot for that or at least get it properly diagnosed before throwing in a new/used engine.

Just my

mjtr21 · #11 08-20-2007, 08:09 PM

yeah i know my engine isnt an overhead cam. but i want to know why it just died like that out of nowhere. ive had the intake gasket changed in march/april about 10,000 miles ago. and i dont think it could be the head gasket because it was making a ticking noise. im pretty sure that replacing the lifters now would be pointless because i dont think they were my problem. but if i do get another motor im positive i will have a warranty on it because the guy is a friend of mine. im thinking it was the rod bearing or conecting rod gone or something like that.

xeroinfinity · #12 08-20-2007, 08:29 PM

A bad bearing wouldnt make it just die all the sudden.

Plus it would be making a horrific noise if a bearing was bad. If it was previously overheated and or ran with coolant in the oil then a bad bearing could be possible.

I've replaced several of these engines and they were usually due to coolant in the oil or ran it out of oil and over heated it.
For a good low mileage engine, and labor

Expect to spend some major cash on this !!
Depending on your location, could cost up to $3000+/-.....

hope its something less drastic, keep us posted.

and Good Luck !

mjtr21 · #13 08-23-2007, 12:28 PM

well it looks like im getting a rebuilt or another engine. i wouldnt even know if the engine overheated bad or anything because i bought the car used with 60,000 miles. and like i said i had the lim gasket done at about 75,000 miles and it hasnt overheated ever on me. but i will have to make sure the engine i am getting has the good gasket on it.

xeroinfinity · #14 08-23-2007, 12:52 PM

I'd have a compression test done to see if its just a head gasket or if its actually toast. They are tougher then people give them credit for.

I overheated my SE and blew an intake gasket over 200 miles from home. I made it how after many stops to refill the radiator and oil :rooleyes:
Checked all the main bearing and they were not damaged.
Replaced the head gakstes and LI and its turning over 200 HP right now.

Good Luck and let use know what happens.

GTP Dad · #15 08-24-2007, 04:48 PM

The low oil pressure is probably what caused the engine to shut down. The oil pressure circuit is tied into the fuel pump circuit so if the oil pressure drops too low it will shut down the fuel pump to stop the engine from seizing. If you haven't changed it try a new sending unit on the oil pressure circuit and see what happens. If the oil pressure doesn't come up then you can always change the pump before changing the engine. Much cheaper and a lot less complicated than an engine change.

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