'00 I30 extended cranking

[triad_guy]

My '00 I30 has started having extended cranking time. I have burnt up 1 starter in about a week. The starter turns, the injectors pulse but there is no fire. If you continue to hold the ignition to start it may eventually try to fire once and will kick the starter out as if the timing was off. After several attempts at starting, it will fire and run fine. There is no running problems once the engine starts. This problem does not occur every time. I have replaced the MAF sensor and cam sensor. The crank sensors read correctly. It is now at the dealer and they have no clue. They want to start replacing parts. Has anyone else experienced this problem?

[VQmax95]

I had something similar to this happen in my 95 and it ended up being the Ignition switch. Maybe that's something you'll want to look at...

[Nahkapohjola]

Originally Posted by triad_guy

... now at the dealer and they have no clue. They want to start replacing parts. ...

Most expensive mixture on earth: tow it out first or get written agreement who pays for lipservice and usele$$ part swap games... When youre clueless, its much cheaper.

When problem is on
- is healthy spark visible (test) - on time (if not, myriad problem possibilities from bad inhibit relay to ign key, to low supply voltage at ECU)
- fuel pressure around 30 psi?
- take MAF connector out (any change?)

Note: at crank, all injectors spray simultaneously: extended crank will get plugs wet = no ignition until they are dry.

[Steburd]

I just had the same problem with my 01 Maxima. The mechanic replaced a spark plug that he said was a problem, and I havent had the problem since.

[91q45a]

It may also be a grounding issue. I had the same issue, and also burned up a reman starter within a week. After putting in the replacement, i cleaned the main battery ground (right under air filter box on 96-99 Max), and also where it continues on to meet the engine block. I cant say for sure it was all do the ground, or is the other starter simply did not spin fast enough to get the injectors and/or spark to fire. It did seem to sound slower while cranking, as opposed to the new, which has been fine ever since. Could still be MAF sensor, even though you have a new one in there. Perhaps the connection to the ECU is compromised. IE cracked wire, or loose wire at the connetor housing.