OBDII codes P0101, 131 and 143 on 2000 S-10

[triutah]

I have been having issues with my truck for the last year or so. It first started when I was idling at a drive thru and the truck seemed to start chugging even though I don't think the RPMs went down (I could be wrong though). Then it turned off for a while. Maybe a month later I would be driving down the freeway and it just wouldn't have the power that it should. but then it would reset. I took it to a mechanic, but they couldn't figure what was wrong with it. Now i have serious issues. Today on a four hour trip it started acting up. It has very SLOW acceleration and when going up hills it will lose and gain power speratically (feels kind of like when you hit the speed governor). I put the code reader on it because the engine light finally come on so that I could see what the hell is going on. It had the codes P0101, P0131, and P0143. Any ideas on what is up?

[MT-2500]

Code 101 first thing.
MAF sensor problem/performance.
Have you tryed to clean it?

What engine and mileage?
What kind of Air filter? Any air intake leaks?

[triutah]

I haven't cleaned it yet, but I was planning on it when i get off work. The engine is a 4.3L with 96k miles. The factory airbox/filter was replaced with a k&n cold air intake. As for intake leaks, I have no idea to tell you the truth. how would I check for leaks?

[aikiwaza]

I just finished working on this problem. I had the EXACT same symptoms and error codes with my 2000 S-10 pickup 4.3 vortec (about 100000 miles)... I actually had six of them, though I don't remember all the numbers. Basically the problems are reported as your Mass Air Filter (MAF) having problems and the other two are related to your Oxygen sensors, and possibly because of this lean fuel. I'll give some possible solutions based on my experience and typical price. Bear in mind I'm nothing more then an at home mechanic, so this may have some holes in it. Based on your error codes (and this is by memory, so it's very possible I'm wrong) it would be your O2 sensors acting up. Which ones I can't remember though, your OBDII reading should be able to tell you.

Here are a few things to try. If you want the (possible) fix, put a bottle of Iso-Heet in a full tank of gas. This will help temporarily but it won't actually fix anything. It just helps clean a few things so that it seems like it was fixed, and I think it helps the gas to not be so lean. Per bottle about $2

Your next solution is to try spraying MAF cleaner in the Mass air filter. The cleaners usually have directions on them so you can follow that. The mass air filter is located under the hood. When you look at the air filter follow it toward the engine a little. You should see a square block right after it, usually gray about an inch thick and held by screws. That's the MAF. Per spray can about $7

The next step, though it may not be the cheapest, is to replace your Oxygen (o2) sensors. There are four of them, two on each branch of your exhaust system, one towards the front right after the exhaust manifold just behind the front wheels, somewhat near the transmission, and one right before the muffler (actually about mid way towards the back) They look like a spark plug sticking out of the pipe and have a little bundle of 4 wires on them that ends in a connector. They are all the same part too, which makes it easy. Most parts stores have them in stock. They just disconnect and unscrew... very very easy to find and replace (except the drivers side front one... It's just a little tricky.) They use a 7/8's inch wrench... if I remeber right. No need to get the special socket wrench tool for these... It doesn't fit on two of them ( too tight a space) and an open wrench works really well. Doing it my first time it only took me 30 min, and now it only takes me 5 or 10 to do 2 of them. Just about anyone could do these. If you need help finding them place a response here and I'll do my best to help. Generally you want to replace all four of them at the same time. If you can't replace the front ones together and the rear ones together. If that still doesn't work find out which one doesn't work and replace that. The biggest reason to replace them at the same time is that if you replace only one, then you can guess that another will go soon, and may work the others hard adding prematurely to their wear. But that's only speculation, like many thing about when car parts will go bad.
Per sensor about $60. I've seen them as low as 53 and as high as 99 so shop a little. The Original Equipment works just fine (the cheaper ones)

The last solution that I know of is to replace your MAF. Again not hard really but this isn't as likely to be your problem. I've never actually had to replace one so I won't try a post anything which may be wrong, though I have taken them off before. Now the price really varies here. When calling around here's the average I got. A refurbished unit was $89. A new one with warranty was about $200. I don't know how steady those prices are, so again look around.

Good Luck and sorry about the long post. Hope this helps.