progressive door unlock

[disker]

Greetings. I have a 92 Caprice Classic that the factory remote keyless entry system died. It had progressive door unlocking (drivers door unlocked then the rest unlocked with a second press on the key fob.).

I put in an aftermarket system, but the only wires I could get information on unlock ALL doors.

What are the wires (colours and locations) I need for progressive door unlocking?

Here are the wires I'm using for the unlocking if all doors:

Power Lock lt. blue + drivers kick panel
Power Unlock black + drivers kick panel

These are connected to a relay directly in the kickpanel itself.

If I could find the wire I need to do the driver's door separately I could use the black for the progressive part if need be.

ANY and all information would be GREATLY appreciated! The last thing I want is for the driver of the car (my 70 yr old mother) to unlock all the doors in a parking lot and have somone sneek up and get in the back seat while her attention is drawn away.

THANKS!

[Blue Bowtie]

Welcome Aboard!

The links you provided don't work without a login password.

The schematics I have for early '90s B-bodies show a single tan wire directly from the keyless entry module to the LF door lock solenoid, completely bypassing the door lock relay. The first actuation of the UNLOCK button on the remote powers that lock solenoid directly (without an external relay), while the second actuation will operate the door lock relay coil (black wire) and unlock all doors simultaneously. Actuation the LOCK button on the remote will operate the door relay light blue wire an lock all doors simultaneously. The factory remote entry system will also operate the courtesy light delay module to turn on interior lighting for a time interval.

[disker]

Originally Posted by Blue Bowtie

Welcome Aboard!

The links you provided don't work without a login password.

The schematics I have for early '90s B-bodies show a single tan wire directly from the keyless entry module to the LF door lock solenoid, completely bypassing the door lock relay. The first actuation of the UNLOCK button on the remote powers that lock solenoid directly (without an external relay), while the second actuation will operate the door lock relay coil (black wire) and unlock all doors simultaneously. Actuation the LOCK button on the remote will operate the door relay light blue wire an lock all doors simultaneously. The factory remote entry system will also operate the courtesy light delay module to turn on interior lighting for a time interval.

Thank you for the welcome AND the information! The links I posted were accidental - I was just posting the wire color info that I had available. The links were part of that and only highlight the line you are looking at so they are insignificant.

So, I need to find a tan wire going into the driver's door and that would be the one I need. Is this a thin wire like the blk and lt.blue going to the relay in the kick panel? Also, do you happen to know the location of the factory module? It may be easier for me to tap there instead of trying to get into the door's harness through the kick panel.

MANY thanks!!!!!!

[Blue Bowtie]

Actually, unless the aftermarket remote system has been opened and is not returnable, it might be easier to diagnose and repair the factory system.

Provided this is a sedan (not a station wagon), the factory remote entry module is attached to a bracket on the underside of the rear package shelf (below the rear window and accessible in the trunk/boot). The module is a little left of center, right over the spare tire. There is a remote entry system programming connector in the trunk. If you follow the wires (BLK/WHT & BLK), you'll find the module:



If you haven't already replaced batteries in the remotes and tried to reprogram them, you might want to give that a go and see if you can forget about the aftermarket system.

Another thing to remember is that the factory keyless entry system requires inputs from several circuits and devices. There are four fuses (Fuse #1, 17, 18, and 19), one circuit breaker (Breaker A), the brake pedal switch, and PARK/NEUTRAL safety switch in the circuits. One of the wires you'll find there is a single AWG18 tan wire, running all the way to the LF door switch console.

[disker]

Actually, I have already installed the aftermarket device. It is a DEI 712T - it even has an extra output that I'm going to connect to her garage door opener so she can control everything from the one fob. Something that couldn't be done with the factory box.

We tried new batteries and 2 new factory fobs and they would not work. They had the correct FCC id and worked when programming them to another Caprice. The programming wires did lock/unlock during programming as they should, the brain just would never receive the signal from the fobs. All I have left to do is connect the one output to complete the progressive unlock - all of about 5 minutes to complete - and it's done.

MANY thanks! Your help for finalizing this project has been INVALUABLE!

[disker]

oh - and the DEI unit with 2 fobs cost less than one replacement factory fob! BONUS!

[disker]

JIC anyone else wants to do the progressive unlocks for this vehicle or similar - when you get the tan wire in the kick panel, you need to split the wire, connect the side from the trunk to common(30) and the side running to the door to NC(87a) on a relay, then put +12 on NO(87). Then set the output trigger for the driver's door to 85 and ground to 86. If you don't do this you could ruin something! This wire is connected to ground unless the switch to unlock is pressed. Without this relay, you will be grounding the 12v and causing a direct short.